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Piston Squirter testing. Confused
Gents. As the title says.
Waynes book says Insert vinyl hose -one side. Opposite side Simply insert straw & spray away . Squirters should spray Now the confusion part. Several postings here talk about using 40 -50 PSI to the passages So ???? My 79 911 3.0 Squirts not working Tks for your time/help ed |
Sorry I should have posted this in the engine forum
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instuctions are confused, or hard to relate to. use your intuition
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i haven’t read the book, but I’ve tested squirters :). After blocking off the passage as you seem to have done with the fuel hose and getting some fluid in there, you need to apply the 40-50 psi to overcome the opening pressure of the squirters. A rubber tipped air hose attachment does the trick.
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Stompski makes a specific tool for piston squirters
Not affiliated, but I have the tool. Bruce |
Piston oil squirter tester.....
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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1548648162.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1548648162.jpg I have a home made tester but not as elegant and efficient as Steve’s piston oil squirter tester. Tony |
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I did spray a bit of soapy water around 1 squirter and I did notice soap bubble at the bore of the squirter..looks like the squirter is not firmly affixed in its bore..but still no action out of the squirter Could all 6 be bad? This is a 79k mi engine. No blowups But the case sat around for 7 yrs Tks for suggestions ed Update: 1 just worked . |
Squirters can stick, especially after sitting for a while. It's a little odd that all 6 are stuck. Make sure the path of compressed air to each squirter is unobstructed. And try soaking them with some WD40 or PB Blaster overnight if you haven't already done that. Just spray it in the same way it sounds like you have been and leave to soak.
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Update.
After wasting a couple of weeks of evenings trying to spray/air many of the standard solvents, seafoam, a water based detergent, I even borrowed a bench top steam cleaner, purchased the Stomski tool, Nothing worked. I just spent less than a hour to drill/pull all 6 squirters out. Looking at the condition of the internals...ball, spring & inside of the the cyl, I'm really glad that I pulled them out. Loctite 640 & 6 new ones on order. My suggestion to anyone that spends more than a hour trying to get them working...Pull them, order new. My2c ed |
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Mine are rebuildable so you will never, ever have to go through the cluster you just went through again. Next time, you'd simply heat the threaded caps to break the loctite seal, then remove the cap, ball, and spring. You'd do all your cleaning, then replace the ball and spring, then put the caps back on and be 100000000% confident that no metal lived inside the squirter. Finally, you install mine with a 5/32 drift, and they slide in so easy that a child could do it. With the factory one, you drift it in as well, but if your hit is off center you kink the barrel of the soft aluminum squirter and you're back to square one. Mine are steel. Oh, and I think mine cost the same as factory ones. Easier to watch the video here: PISTON SQUIRTER |
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I don't expect to ever have this engine apart again...I know "thats what we all say" The deciding factor for me was the cost. I pd 39.00 ea original factory part ed |
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seems kind of rude to hammer on the guy after he already bought parts.
I get that you are trying to be helpful it just does not read that way. |
website says $45 for the rebuildable ones so that's not that much more than factory.
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Friends don't let friends install factory squirters. They are turds, they are built to horrendous tolerances, and at least half of the people that try to install them in their own will bungle the installation. I am trying to save him some grief. |
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Squirter install update
Finally go around to the install this evening. I made a brass holder/driver install tool. Went in like butter...easy peasy
Tks to all who responded http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1551059726.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1551059879.jpg |
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