Shift rod coupler; my turn

[carreradpt]

Taking a drive yesterday, shifting to third and I almost couldn't find it. Uh oh! Started the turn for home immediately. 1st and 2nd plane was fine but anything to the right was questionable. Yikes, 30 miles to go. Found 4th and left it there as long as I could and limped home. Must be bushings. Took it apart this morning and here we are; pieces and parts everywhere.



My questions to the board are, where and what do I mark before I remove the coupling to install bushings? All the pics I see of the coupling I never see the boot, do most take this off and leave it off? Shifter is in 1st presently to begin the op, parts are on the way.

Now off to read the zillions of threads on this. Thanks.

[rywats]

Upgrade:

https://www.wevo.com/Products/ShifterProducts/WevoShifterProducts_PSJ-911Stock.htm

[Flojo]

I dont use the boot. No need for it to be there imho. As long as the through-boot is there and the coupler-sumpcover is mounted all is well.

befor disassembling, push back the boot as far back as possible to mark with marker the coupler-rod how far its inserted in the shifter rod.

engage 1st, then take apart.

[carreradpt]

Thanks Flo. That's what I was looking for.

Think I am just going with the stock bushings, though the wevo sure is tempting.

[universeman]

the WEVO is worth the cost, trust me. Plus it has a built-in boot

[Otter74]

In addition to the above, use a pen to mark the angular position of the shift rod on the coupler.

[carreradpt]

Originally Posted by Otter74

In addition to the above, use a pen to mark the angular position of the shift rod on the coupler.

I marked the shaft of the shift coupling where it enters the shift rod and where it ends in the shift rod; and down the middle of the shift rod where it splits down the center as marked here. Does this cover the "angular position" of the shift rod on the coupler?

[OldSpool87]

BTW- these witness marks just serve to get you back in the relative adjustment you were in. You'll likely need to drive around with two wrenches to sweeten the final adjustment.

[tirwin]

Maybe this picture will help.

I don't worry about trying to mark the position on the coupler.

In my opinion, the easiest thing to do is grab the coupler and put it into 1st gear by turning it towards the passenger side (LHD cars) and pushing it in. Then move the shifter into 1st position. This will get you in the ballpark. From there, make minor adjustments until shifting feels good in all gears.

[JJ 911SC]

Originally Posted by tirwin

... This will get you in the ballpark. From there, make minor adjustments until shifting feels good in all gears...

+1, my first try was when I switch to the Stomski Precision Shift Coupler (SR010).

I carry a couple of wrench some with me and every time it did not shift quite wright, I pull on the side and do a nano adjustment. After a few run its perfect.

[rattlsnak]

Originally Posted by universeman

the WEVO is worth the cost, trust me. Plus it has a built-in boot

^^ This.. I just don't get why people still want to use the stock setup.

[pegasus9]

Yep, the wevo shift coupler was the most bang for the buck in my 86. Still very reliable after all these years.

[Flojo]

a good, refurbed OEM coupler works fine.
even for me as spirited driver I don't see me spending $200,- for that gymmick.

[cabmandone]

I know a lot of guys here are Wevo fans but I have driven my car with brass bushings and my brother's car with a Wevo and I don't feel any difference in how the two function. My brother tends to agree that we both have the same feel. It's mostly that my feel makes my wallet heavier at the end of the day.

[Mike Andrew]

Running brass here as well and they work great after a bit of fine tuning with sandpaper. I do get a bit more noise which I suspect is due to brass transmitting more noise than Delrin.

[tirwin]

I have the Delrin bushings from Ed "The Coupler Whisperer". Unfortunately, he is no longer in that business. It is hard for me to believe that the shifting with his bushings and the Seine GSK could get much better. For me, I'd have to drive a car with the Wevo coupler and the Seine to believe it. Hard to justify the cost of the Wevo for me. I would be interested in feedback. (Side note: I believe Ed's bushings had higher tolerance than the other Delrin replacements.)

Other good simple "upgrades" are made by JWest. It's the clamp and conical screw. The clamp has a single bolt which makes it easier to adjust one handed. The conical screw has a nut to prevent the screw from backing out. Someone used Loctite on my buddy's car and we rounded the allen head in the set screw trying to get it out. Had to drill it out. That's after soaking the thing with Kroil. We used these parts when we replaced all his shifter bushings and we liked them a lot.

Link here with better explanation:
New Shift Linkage Accessories - JWest Engineering

[universeman]

Bushings wear over time, and the PSJ is more like a CV joint which, if it keeps its lube, will (should) perform the same for decades.

I guess there's a reason we're all replacing our bushings, huh?

[tirwin]

Originally Posted by universeman

Bushings wear over time, and the PSJ is more like a CV joint which, if it keeps its lube, will (should) perform the same for decades.

I guess there's a reason we're all replacing our bushings, huh?

I get your point, but the first ones lasted almost 30 years...

[universeman]

Originally Posted by tirwin

I get your point, but the first ones lasted almost 30 years...

OK let's bookmark this post and see which one is performing better in 2047...

[carreradpt]

Thanks for all the replies and suggestions. Looks to be a pretty straight forward job. I plan to do the shift rod and ball cup bushings as well. So that means I will F something up doing this the first time around.

While I wait for the bushings to arrive, I have been reading up on removing the console to replace the ball cup bushing and the shift rod bushing. Now that looks to be a pain. Guess the bushings are the easy part.

Because I only have the AC controls and central locking in the console I would think this to be a much simpler removal process to get to the shifter you think?