plug-n-play?
 

+1....I've installed quite a few systems and provided many systems to others. I provide excellent start-up files with my systems and this typically ensures that you will be able to fire your engine up, assuming a good install. However.....in my experience, they are all a bit different and all require additional fine tuning, based on actual loading conditions etc. Many of the ECUs provide auto-tuning and it works pretty well.....but still requires the end user/installer to review the results, understand the results and revise and refine. Rinse & repeat until you are satisfied. The beauty/power of these systems is the ability to datalog, review the results and make the required changes to get the desired results. I often have people email me their logs....which i review and then provide recommended changes.........If you're willing to take the time......it typically doesn't take long to develop a basic understanding and get tuned up. Maybe not 100% plug-n-play, but definitely well within the capabilities of most DIY hot-rodders and the difference is worth it..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzRV7m1DLvM

regards,
al

Excellent DIYer
 

thanks for the kind words. You provide an excellent example of how successful these installs can be for the DIYer....

It is hard to find any info about them, could you provide a number of those with built in IGBT please?
Thank you :)

For example VW VR6 (AFP engine) coilpack, part number 021905106. It has integrated IGBT module.
https://dyw03owr7vs3n.cloudfront.net...jpg?1496438034

Thanks for sharing Peeps, very useful info.

On the fence...
 

How much weight do you give to:
Initial cost??
Ability: Ignition control - COP, Twin ignition, Sequential/Batch? Turbo?
Up-gradeability?
Support?
Completeness of Kit?? Instructions??

From my initial investigation of EFI, limited to ITB, (because I want the simplicity, appearance and flexibility of ITB), I am leaning towards Al's PMO MS3 system.
Should I go to the Rasant-AEM upgrade?? Is the flexibility/interface/support better???

This is going to be a primarily street,(occasional DE), NA, fun car, 74, 2.7-2.8, Light flywheel/ clutch, LSD; eventually 9.8 CR, E or "equivalent" cams. I would like to be able to do COP or EDIS

I need input on cost versus ease of tuneability, (my time spent with a laptop/and or paying for a pro to fine tune on a dyno??

Ive got no reference point other than the threads here. And I will say that Al has been patient and forthcoming with advice.

I don't need to have a lot of bells and whistles, unless they are going to save me a lot of time getting it dialed in, I.E. AutoTune??

Once again, mired in ignorance....
Thanks,
chris

"auto tunes" provide you with a VE map that is close enough for most of us. Not sure if they will help with the ignition map which is imo harder to tune than the VE. The real meat of a tune is in the off-throttle fuel cut, acceleration enrichment, idle tuning and engine safety parameters. Your gonna need to spend a few hours minimum dialing these things in and in my opinion these are more important to an easy to drive street car than the VE map is.

If someone was to ask me a condensed thoughts on tuning, I'd say something like this...

VE : get the wot afr near 12.5. Get the cruise afr near 14. Make sure your a little fat where peak torque is. Good enough, move on to the more important ign maps.
IGN maps are best tuned with a knock sensor on a dyno. You can get pretty close by studying the factory maps or the distributor curve map for your motor and mimic that. Add plenty of timing at low-throttle points and cruise throttle range (2-10% tps) for decent mpg and nice torque. You won't burn a hole in a piston running too much timing at 5% throttle. More attention though around peak torque rpm and wot areas of the map. Good enough, now move on to Accel enrichment and decel fuel cut and idle tuning.
For Accel enrichment, it's really an audible process. No lean pops and the motor should sound crisp and quick when you jab the throttle. Learn from others that have similar setups.
Idle- I don't have much experience here. I don't have a iacv on my setup so just use ign timing for the most part.
Decel fuel cut: I think it's best to cruise around neighborhood to set this up. Try a few different setting and see what works best. You'll adjust the map value fuel cut kicks in at, tell rpm it stops kicking in at, and the tps voltage it kicks in at, and the delay time before it kicks in. Pretty simple really.
But I'm pretty sure auto tunes only help out with the VE map is my point.
Buy a setup from Al or Rasant and I feel like their included calibration will get you really close.

This is great information guys!

Thank You!

Is there a reason not to install knock sensors? There must be as I never read about people doing it, but what is the thinking?

Nope, not a good reason. I have one installed and I know a couple others using the AEM Infinity have them installed as well. Most of us put them in place of the thick aluminum spacer under the throttle linkage bracket near cylinder 3.

When I went to tune on the dyno they actually had a separate knock sensor that they wanted to listen with while on the rollers. It was a "portable" knock sensor that plugged into their dyno so they could graph it along with the other things like AFR and hp and torque.