Smoke from exhaust. Why?

[Cheshire Cat]

Well, here is the story:
About 10 days ago I started my car to give her a spin, warmed up oil, started to drive carefully then hit the pedal. Since the motor freshly rebuilt I'm not revving it too much, this time it was up to 5200 rpm, at some stage I've notice a smoke behind me (say, after about 5-10 mins of drive) finished, since I was in a middle of block (sort of) finished the run in a garage with a lot of smoke. Burned oil smoke and a trace of that oil behind me for about 1km (I'm literally guessing) or less.
Killed the switch, opened the decklid and started to look after the source. It was a right hand side oil temp sender, it got loose hence the oil everywhere.
Let the car sit for 10 or so mins, assuming it has lost a lot of oil, added 2-3 liters of it and started the car once again. Not to mention praying to all God's that could exist in all times.
She started ok, no additional sounds, no smoke - nothing.
Near miss though me.
Last night, got fresh tune from a guy who helps me out with EFI, started the car and straight away she had a LOT of smoke coming from the left bank of cylinders.
I can hear some valves might need adjustments, but that's all I can hear.
Killed the engine.
Started again and the smoke was again but mostly in the other bank of cylinders.
Here is the question, what the hell is going on?
One of the mates pressumed I've got too much oil, so this is what I'm gonna do first - drain some, start again and see what happens.
Obviously I'll change the oil before next run (if it'll work out just fine) but I'd like to know what did I do to the engine?
Some data:
Oil temp peak 114 Celsius
Head temp peak 84 Celsius
Oil pressure is there, thought I didn't check when was driving with the smoke.
I have no oil cooler in my fender or at all (that's my next mission if the rest is fine), had the car like that. Hence the oil temp.
Map sensor shows 105 kPa before start and 84 on idle. The data before the showed around 92 kPa. If it means something.
This is ITB 3.2 as motor. No plenum.
And yes, she is a bit reach on the latest tune.

Video of the first run https://www.instagram.com/tv/CZswnjvJZ1t/?utm_medium=copy_link

Video of the second run
https://www.instagram.com/tv/CZs0jLGlY2K/?utm_medium=copy_link

Ambient temperature was at about 30+ Celsius
I'm really sorry for the metric system guys.
Tell me I didn't screw this up please or truth.
Cheers.

[Rodsrsr]

First make sure you didn't overfill it with oil. I would run it until it hits 180 degrees (or close) and check oil level to rule that out.

Having said that, if you check the oil level when its completely cold and you see a measurable amount, its probably overfilled.

[HarryD]

Thinking possible over fill. Drain oil into a clean container (so you can reuse) and measure. If more than 11 quarts (liters) you have an over fill. Refill with about 8 quarts (liters) and run unti warm 170 F (77 C) and check level. Add as needed to get midway to dip stick. Drive and report back if problem persists after 20-30 minutes.

If oil quantity is within range, more discussion is needed.

[HarryD]

Also 114 C (237 F) is too damned hot! Your motor will fail prematurely. You need an external cooler. If it was me it would be factory (or Elephant) hard lines with a Carrera cooler.

[Coastr]

Adding 2-3 L for the leak at the sender was likely excessive. A cap full of oil would produce a lot of smoke - 2l would be visible dripping while running. I would guess you overfilled and now it’s been sucked into the intake. L vs r bank might just be random (how did you tell?).

Per above oil over 100c is hot

[Cheshire Cat]

Originally Posted by Coastr

Adding 2-3 L for the leak at the sender was likely excessive. A cap full of oil would produce a lot of smoke - 2l would be visible dripping while running. I would guess you overfilled and now it’s been sucked into the intake. L vs r bank might just be random (how did you tell?).

Per above oil over 100c is hot

On the video, left exhaust tip is right hand side bank and vice versa.
And about oil temp - I'm at the stage of basic tuning (hot and cold start up, a bit of street driving etc) so I will for sure put an oil cooler.
The car has made about 200kms after the rebuild so never had a chance to get this temps, literally the first time.

[HarryD]

The esteemed Steve Weiner of Rennsport Systems had this to say on oil temperatures:

Originally Posted by Steve@Rennsport

...
JMHO,.......Thermostats open between 180-185 degF and I like to see these engines run between 190 & 220 degF. The 220 mark is the tiny hash mark on the gauge face directly across from "Normal" on the graphic. 248 is too damned hot (paraphrasing my buddy Bruce Anderson) and not conducive to maximum engine longevity.

Modern synthetic oils function well above 275 degF, however the propensity for oil leaks rises exponentially when the engine operates in these high temperatures. For that reason alone, I like too maintain operating temps below 200 to maintain the integrity of all the gaskets, seals, and O-rings.

Performance really begins to fall off when oil temps rise above 210 degF so thats something to consider due to high cylinder head temps and reduced volumetric efficiency.

My advice ... would be to use a 15w-40 in hot weather, ... leaving the lighter oils for water-cooled cars. Overfilled oil systems result in high oil temps so make sure you are making any dipstick decisions at operating temps (above 190 degF).

[GH85Carrera]

To check the oil level the engine HAS to be fully warmed up, 180 or above. If you can reach up over the passenger side tire and briefly touch the oil cooler lines going to the oil cooler, and if it is warm or hot, you can check the oil temp. DON'T just grab on to the oil line as if they are 180, it will seriously burn your hand. Just briefly brush with your finger, or use a infrared thermometer.

If the lines are cold, don't waste time using the dip stick. The system uses a lot of oil. It can be two quarts low, and have no bad side effects at all as long as you are not on track running at wide open throttle and cornering really hard.

Also it has to be on a level surface, not on any angle to check the oil level.

[proporsche]

i wanted to add after the rebuild did you break-in the engine properly???because at 5200 on new engine without proper break ins is questionable...
the over fill is the culprit..Do you know the basics how to check your oil level and e,t,c?

Ivan

[Cheshire Cat]

Ok gents, I`ve drained some oil, not much but about half of a liter, It might just be a wishfull thinkimg but to me it looked like after some times smoked a bit less. I didn`t give it too much time to idle cos it`s pretty hard to be around the car with all the smoke that goes from the car (the exhaust is wrapped and oil soaked wet).
Will try to drain a bit more and start again.