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Dumb 915 shifter ???
Hello again! To those much smarter than me (everybody here I think), I ordered one of Karstens magic springs which is due to arrive on Monday. I removed the tower with the customary 3 - 6mm hex screws, and 2 - 5 mm hex screws. I purchased a new bushing for the rod and cup bushing ready to install. Upon pulling the tower and placing it on the bench, lo and behold, it is not what the bottom view of a typical 915 5 speed tower looks like. The car (numbers matching) was factory equipped w/short shift kit, but what type of tower is this? It has a reverse gear lock out from appearances. IN the tunnel bottom I found remnants of and older crystalized shattered bushing, and fairly new bushings I replaced. Car has 62K original miles. Any input appreciated. This tower is tight and precise, no normal gates that I can ascertain and my "new" Karsten Spring will not install. Anyone want a US sourced New Spring? Can ship after Monday.
Thanks! |
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Looks like a typical 915 shift tower....
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(man/dude)
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x2!
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 56
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X3
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Join Date: Apr 2009
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Looks like the shift lever detached from the bottom section that's mounted in the fork. That's an epoxied joint
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: atlanta
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Ok guys, and thanks to all. The issue that flagged my attention is 2 part. First the shift mechanism is VERY STIFF. Even though a low mileage unit, and well lubricated, it is STIFF. I thought this was due to some aftermarket mod. It is not. It is just STIFF. Second, the shifter shaft has indeed come free and spun 360 degrees, making any shift strategic at best. I am planning to JB weld it back in place. I am just needing some memory help in getting the correct orientation, which is about a one o'clock position (vertical) off of fore/aft orientation. Is that what you guys feel/remember?
Have installed the Karsten Spring and man does it add to the STIFF feel of the shift mechanism before mounting! Thanks to all the Porsche Experts! Keep it coming please! |
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 56
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The bend in my short shifter lever is angled straight back. So, if I recall correctly, when I removed my lever and laid it on a table,the pivot pin hole was perpendicular to the table surface. Is that what you're asking about?
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"Second, the shifter shaft has indeed come free and spun 360 degrees, making any shift strategic at best." - I don't understand this comment at all. This sounds like something terrible.
As far as stiff shifting...make sure you go through the process of adjusting your clutch cable at the tranny. I had super-difficult shifting until I did that, and now it's pretty darn amazing.
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With that new spring installed, the only stiffness should be side to side - stock stiff for 5/R, and new spring stiff for everything else with the shifter out of the car and on your bench. If this isn't so, you need to disassemble it to see where it is binding. There should be only two places - the side to side pivots, and the cross pin pivot.
If the stiffness only appears with the apparatus all back in the car, then adjustment would likely be the issue. It shouldn't be any harder or easier to put in gear than before, other than having to hold against the spring when going for 1/2. That shouldn't affect the fore and aft motion which moves things in the transmission. JB Weld may do to hold the lever in its cup, but if you can swing it, a couple of very careful welds (you don't want to burn a hole through the lever shaft)would be better. Everything else eventually can fail. |
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Thanks to all. Shifting with a freely rotating gear shift is a real trip for sure. You hold the shaft only and move thru the pattern very cautiously! The vehicle shifted smoothly before Karsten's spring, and it is a little STIFFER in the inboard/outboard patterns (non 3/4 main). It has a new cup and rod bushing well lubricated with Lithium grease, and I believe all will be good. The spot weld is a great idea, but I would have to remove the tower again. Probably should do it I guess to be on the safe side. You guys are the BEST knowledge base out there, thanks to ONE and ALL!!
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Join Date: Jul 2000
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Glue the lever in the proper orientation, then road test.
If you want to guarantee the 2-piece lever never separates again, first remove the shift housing, then remove the lever from the housing. As Walt suggested, a couple of tack welds that don't inhibit normal shift motion should do it. ![]() Sherwood |
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By a Wevo and be done with it. It's beyond well worth the money.
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