Oil Lines in Rear Wheel Well

[Jp-oh]

so I have sprung a (new) leak from one or both of the oil lines mounted in the rear wheel well.
Are these the correct part numbers for these lines (seem to be according to PET)?

930 107 743 10
911 107 730 11

Could I have lines fabbed up buy a local hose shop in lieu of ordering replacements?


Also, in the process of "investigating" the source I snapped off the bolt that protrudes from the tub that the lines are supported by. Not to sure how best to rectify that, any suggestions? Is it ok to drive for a bit with the lines unsupported until it is addressed. Im gonna need to get on this relatively soon as the leak is not wee.

[Walt Fricke]

Yes, you can have the rubber replaced at a shop which does hydraulic system repairs - a kind of a specialty, but there is a lot of hydraulic hose work on equipment. As I recall, at least one of these lines is "clocked:" the curved metal fitting at one end has to be in the proper relationship/angle to the curved fitting on the other end. If you tell the shop to please be careful with this, they will know just what you are saying and can get it right.

If the snapped off bolt is what I think it is, it just sticks out from the tub, and its main purpose is to keep the oil lines tucked in tight against the tub, because the tire is very close. On my SC I added a second one farther back to avoid rubbing back there. Just used a flat piece of steel with a hole in the middle to do the job - works as well as the Porsche clamp for the purpose.

You can - and should - just weld the head of a nut to the tub. If you can't weld and don't have a friend conveniently located, any muffler shop should be willing to do it for very little money, especially if you clean the metal of the tub beforehand and all they need is a couple of seconds of arc.

[911tracker85]

contact Len Cummings, BoxsterGT, to rebuild them. he made all new fuel lines for my project and I am about to send him some more oil and fuel lines to rebuild.

email contact is the best way. he does not monitor or reply to PMs.

Len dot Cummings at verizon dot net

[Flat6pac]

The biggest challenge is getting them off the thermostat aluminum threads. About $100 each why make a commitment to ship the old lines across the country or give them to a hydraulic shop that might not have metric rubber hose.
Bruce

[Jp-oh]

Originally Posted by Flat6pac

The biggest challenge is getting them off the thermostat aluminum threads. About $100 each why make a commitment to ship the old lines across the country or give them to a hydraulic shop that might not have metric rubber hose.
Bruce

Min $40 (optimistic) to ship new lines here *1.35 for FX to CAD and they are more like $150-$160 each for me. But still probably the best option is just to order new. This also has the benefit of limiting downtime.

[Walt Fricke]

The shop I went to didn't have metric hose. They said they cut off the barbed parts, brazed on ones for their hose, and put them back together. this was maybe 20 or more years ago.

Lasted fine, but when I laid out the big $ to have a really good shop rebuild the motor, the shop persuaded me just to replace these lines (which are now in my spares box) because when their time to go to the hydraulic hose place twice was included, I wasn't really saving any $.

I also didn't think they needed to be replaced, but at some point if you have decided someone else can do it better than you can (or you don't want to do it again, because after a while it isn't the challenge and the reward of being able to do it isn't there any more), it makes sense to let the shop build according to its standards.

The relative costs here may have changed from 20 years ago, also. I'm pretty sure I saved $ with replacing just the hose back then (of course my time taking the hoses in, going off and doing errands, and coming back a couple of hours later to collect them, was valued at 0).

[mike sampsel]

Originally Posted by Flat6pac

The biggest challenge is getting them off the thermostat aluminum threads. About $100 each why make a commitment to ship the old lines across the country or give them to a hydraulic shop that might not have metric rubber hose.
Bruce

I got my nuts off my thermostat using a dremel to carefully cut the nut on the hose. Cut perpendicular to the threads. Careful being sure to not cut the threads (maybe just a wee bit) on the aluminum thermostat. Then squirted PT blaster inside the nut cut. The nuts came off easy as pie for me then. I used the air hammer on the nuts on the front crossover and oil tank to loosen mine up there. Not sure a cutting of the old nuts is required but it worked for me. Crowsfoot wrench on a breaker bar can be your friend there too.

I think mine started leaking more after a couple of partial engine drops to fix other leaks.

[pampadori]

I have a leak that just developed on my "Tank to thermostat" line, which is the lower of the two in the right rear wheel well. Mine must have been replaced at some point because it is so braided and not rubber like oe is.
I replaced the other line when I installed my headers. They required it I seem to recall.

To me the worst part is draining out that oil that still has a couple thousand miles of service left in it.

So there are a few brands of this line available. The German brand has a reputation of having the wrong flare in the end.
There is a Cohline brand available from one of the large auto retailers that rhymes with "Bad-dance-bravo" offers it.
Then there is the Porsche brand that is the most $$$.
Anyone used the Cohline brand before?

[BoxsterGT]

You should be fine with the Cohline version as they are an OEM supplier to Porsche and OUR HOST keeps them in stock.

The cloth braided Hose has not been used for years.

Only drawback on current lines from Germany is the silver zinc instead of the original yellow zinc.

Len

[pampadori]

Originally Posted by BoxsterGT

You should be fine with the Cohline version... OUR HOST keeps them in stock.

The cloth braided Hose has not been used for years.

Len

I only saw Porsche and German brands with out host.
I'll check again.
Btw, I miss typed my last message. The current line is stainless steel braided...and leaking.

[BoxsterGT]

Most local Hydraulic Hose Shops have crimp sleeves and crimp dies that are too long for the Porsche fittings, and are likely the cause of the leak.

Not many places have the correct Metric crimp sleeves & dies to do it right.



The Porsche fittings have a bump to help retain the hose, and when the sleeve and die are too long, the hose is crushed and causes a premature failure.

This is what the correct Crimp looks like......





Len

[hienz]

Try ElephanRacing
They needed both original fittings to rebuild your hose