G50 1989 Sloppy Shifter

[PDACPA]

I did a search on here and elsewhere trying to find out why my shift lever, when in gear and driving will move left and right between the seats 2-3 inches. It goes into gear and out of gear with no issue, but is very sloppy and moves in your hand side to side and will shake a bit if no hand on it.

A post on another forum mentioned a 10mm bolt under the car that needs to be tightened as a solution, but the picture was missing. Does anyone have a picture of that bolt?

or

Is there something else that I need to look? I saw some post regarding the rubber O ring, but I am not sure if that is what I need.

Pictures appreciated!

Thanks

[dshepp806]

The tunnel rubber piece has given way and needs repair/replacement.

BEST!

Doyle

[PDACPA]

Is that the black rubber "O" style ring I have seen? If you have a part number

[cashman]

JWST-G50-BUSH G50 Shifter Bushing Kit, JWest Engineering, 911 (1987-89), 911 Turbo (1989)
Brand: JWest Engineering [More Info]

This is what you need. Sold by our host.

[tchanson]

Unscrew your console and lift the boot. Check the friction ring (2) below and the ball/socket mechanism (10/11 below).

I've changed each at various times. They are plastic and crack/deteriorate over time.





Tim

[PDACPA]

Thanks guys!

[megerian]

I am betting its the ball cup bushing, part 10 in the diagram. 20 bucks for a new one.

Shifter bushing question

[PDACPA]

Any issue driving it until the parts arrive?

[KTL]

Only issue driving it is that you may not be able to select gears at some point, should the bushing come free entirely. I agree that it's the rod bushing in the housing. The ball cups do tend to fail, but they just make shifting a little bit sloppy (depending on severity of cup fail).

The bolt to tighten is the coupler shoulder bolt that connects the shifter rod to the transmission shift rod. When that bolt comes loose, you lose gear selection. Happened to me once and I could not select 5th or reverse.

I would check the shifter housing bushing that supports the main shift rod. What this bushing does is capture the main shift rod and forces it to rotate when you move the shifter left or right. When it fails, you get lots of slop left and right. Happened to a friend at the track last year. Bushing came out of the housing and the shifter went all flopified. Luckily I had a spare bushing in my garage so he was able to drive to my place and grab it.

Here's an article that I scanned from Excellence years ago that details how they worked on the shifter

G-50 shift tower bushings

[chuckr]

Jwest Engineering
I installed these parts and my 88 shifts as good as new !
I sheetz you not.

[PDACPA]

Thanks KTL. I had seen your post (but did not remember all the pictures. Maybe my iPad had not downloaded them all).

I just need to take the car to something tonight for my son and did not want to get stranded.

[dshepp806]

I installed all of the items in chuckr's (very) last pic and cleaned/lubed everything else back during my 2nd year of ownership.....,..like a new shifter...didn't have any issues in the rear so I left it alone (aside from checking tightness and inspecting the rubber). Do be careful with that AC thermostat line in the console,..easy to bend it.

BEST!

Doyle

[PDACPA]

What is the blue part? I saw it on another thread, but did not save it. Thought it said you had to drill out the OEM part to install it.

[KTL]

Originally Posted by PDACPA

Thought it said you had to drill out the OEM part to install it.

It's a poly piece of material that is part of the shifter coupler at the transmission shift shaft. You drill out the factory rivets and bolt this poly buffer in place. Firms up the shift feel by eliminating the rubber flex.

[wildcat077]

I installed the same stuff that chuckr did on my 89 and it sure tightened everything up ...
The original two fasteners are a real pain to grind off and remove but the end result is worth it.Just make sure you install the two new bolts with Loctite as mine came loose during a track weekend.

Cheers !
Phil

[PDACPA]

What part number does it replace in the diagram? The only one that looks similar is 16?

[KTL]

Part 16 is the entire coupler. Part 16A is the rubber isolator/buffer/damper/whatever you want to call it.

[PDACPA]

Thanks. Right I was looking at the 16A too.

[froggert]

take the coupler out of the car. it's much easier than trying to grind the rivets out while everything is still together. trust me.

[luke-44]

Is there a trick to getting the shifter housing (1) out to just replace the friction ring (2)? Mines missing, po told me his mechanic took it out and the part (friction ring) had never come in. Anyway as you pull the housing forward the hole tapers down and it binds and you cant come forward enough to clear the rod. And the friction ring has to go in from the back side. What am I missing? Undo the other end at the bearing body?