Header installation
 

Good evening everyone,

For those of you with headers what did you use to reroute your oil lines?

I don't currently have a trombone or any cooler. Living in Michigan does have some advantages

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1557353238.jpg

Depending on the headers you will have to get backdated oil lines. Look in the Porsche PET for part numbers and search around. They are available on Pelican and will need to be massaged to fit. There are other flexible alternatives but I don’t have experience with those.

Good luck and get a Mapp torch, your going to need it.

-Steve

Mapp torch? All of my exhaust studs are out. I used a hand held induction heater that I borrowed from work. Am I going to need to borrow it again to remove the old oil lines?

David

Is # 33 what I need? 911 107 739 10

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/91110773910.htm?pn=911-107-739-10-M127


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1557354413.PNG

When I installed my Rarlyl8 headers, I didn't have to reroute any oil lines.

Make sure that the headers you plan to install do not interfere with access to the lower valve covers.

Like everything in life, it depends. I had to use a Mapp torch on the union you see in the far right of your picture ( by the hanging heater ducting). This was after soaking the union in Kroil. What really worked for that thing was a pipe wrench with a long breaker pipe and a 4x4 post supporting it from the ground. It was the only way I could remove it with out damaging it too bad. Good luck.


-Steve

Oil line for header installation........
 

David,

You need part #33. I had a minor problem with the new oil lines from our host during installation. The new ones is not shaped or formed exactly like the old ones. So you should be aware of this problem. Unless the new batch has been modified, it would not mount correctly on the motor without massaging it.

Tony

I used the factory Porsche early oil lines, no problems with fit or need for torches, maybe I got lucky..

Oh hell, the old style oil line was such a bear to get in place for me. When connected at the engine sump it was originally a good 2" off from the connection at the heads, and not only that I had to bend it even further out to clear the header and then back in.

I was very mad at that thing. Very mad.

Good luck! :)

Do I also have to replace #20 also?

Does anyone have a used one in good condition

I might have one. I'll check the garage.

I had to replace 30 and 34 with my BBE headers. I ended up making something work for #34.
Had I bought them new, it would have came with a pipe to replace it with but i'm cheap and went used!

Another strategy is to go up and over. Len makes a variety of excellent parts. He lurks :cool: on the forum and may comment in the near future :D

Len Cummings aka BoxsterGT

I just ordered # 20 & 33 from our host. I ordered a 36mm box end wrench from Amazon

My mechanic just made me a 36mm wrench. He cut a socket on the lathe then welded it to a handle that he water jet cut for me

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1557507413.jpg

Wilding Engineering sent me one of their 36mm wrenches with my engine lift adaptor. Not sure if our host sells them or not, but you can also get them directly from Wilding here. The opening makes it very handy for the oil lines.

http://wildingeng.com/Product%20Files/36OLWrench.gif

How do you get that wrench around an oil line fitting with it installed? And the reverse after you have tightened the fitting? Do you plan on cutting a relief in order to facilitate these things mentioned?