Sorry........
 

John,

Sorry if you feel this way. What I was trying to point out was that this incident could have been avoided if you did test terminal #85 correctly. The “jumper procedure” could have been detected right away. We all make mistake and I make a lot too.

The objective of this post is to help others from making the same mistake in the future. The DKLever48’s post (FP relay socket tests) would clearly identify the problem with terminal #85 and all the other terminals (87a, 87, 86, & 30).

You are not down. You just fumbled the ball and continue playing hard and finish the game.

Tony

This afternoon I did a partial alarm harnessectomy, disconnecting both connections to the fuse panel (red and black/red) cutting the wires back, insulating everything and adding a permanent (hopefully) label saying what it is. Next will be to start installing the replacement fuel pump relay harness, which will start with pulling the tach to undo the old harness's white/red signal wire (to Rev Limiter) and attach the replacement's. Of course I could just nip the old one in the frunk, nip some off the replacement and join them but that's behavior to be avoided. I'll also add a fuse for the instrument/ashtray light circuit.

I'm thinking it would be a good idea to run the fuel pump (not dry, obviously) with stout, fused test leads and a clamp ohmmeter to see if it (the pump) has excessive draw.

I'll be consulting Dennis before I run any electrons thru the wires. John.

You will need to undo the fuse panel assembly from the fender at some point if you haven’t already.
Wiring for FP relay runs behind it. May also be useful for getting alarm wiring out.

Yes, thanks, did that, loosened the filler neck and pulled the tank.
Also added a cautionary note at the very beginning of this thread to warn-off anyone from mimicking my inital strategy.

:) good idea

Cheers Tony... the difference between the written word and face-to-face communication can be a challenge for any/all us. Best wishes to you. John

I ordered a new Bosch fuel pump; the one in the car is likely over 10 years old (I've had the car since 2014). John

Better late than never
 

Here I am doing the tests Tony suggested early on.

I think the mechanical side of my ignition switch is worn...no much detent felt between Run and Start positions.

I very much appreciate the help on this one...Tony, Dennis, Ivan, L.J. (one of my nicknames, BTW). John

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1560172924.jpg

I know I dodged a bullet this time, so I'm relieved to report that my SC seems to be fixed.

In a nutshell:
- replaced wiring subharness for fuel pump and fuel pump relay. R&R gas tank and tachometer so as not to snip any wires (thanks Tom1394Racing for the part)
- replaced Rev Limiter black box (thanks JimTweet);
- de-powered alarm sub-harness;
- replaced fuel pump.

While I was there:
- added 5A fuse to dash light circuit, off headlamp switch;
- replaced gauge bulbs with LED kit (thanks CarMagic.net/Norbert)

Thanks Tony, Dennis and others for technical guidance. Thanks to Andy at D&D Auto, Mansfield Conn for fuses and a connector.
John