Gas pedal play

[ramonesfreak]

I just installed a 917 gas pedal from rebel racing. As usual when I change something, I can’t remember how it was exactly before I changed it

I now notice about 2 inches of travel in the gas pedal before fuel starts moving

I don’t remember this being the case an hour ago but it could just be that I’m more aware of what’s going on because I have a new fancy part installed mixed with my natural paranoia

Regardless of what pedal you are using, should there be any free travel when you press the pedal or is it a matter of taste or what?

Doesn’t really bother me while driving but would like to know what’s normal etc....

Thanks

Btw, the pedal is very nice

[Mixed76]

Seems like both mine have zero travel before the throttle opens.
Dan

[ramonesfreak]

Interesting. Must be mine always had play and I didn’t notice because I don’t see how the new pedal could change that.

[Sebscst]

Did you readjust all the linkages?

[ramonesfreak]

I only attempted to adjust the pedal angle, tried both floor mount positions and various lengths of the rod that goes from pedal to cluster. None of these seems to change the play in pedal travel

With no pedal installed at all, I can feel about 2” of travel in throttle linkage....by grabbing with my hand the ball end where pedal linkage rod clicks in to

I can’t imagine the original plastic pedal was pushing against the linkage with enough force on its own that it was making the play unoticable if you know what I mean

[Mixed76]

I'm curious what is going on at the engine during those 2" of travel

[ramonesfreak]

I’ll have the wife press it while I look around

Maybe I’ll reinstall the original pedal and see if the play is still there. I can’t imagine I’m noticing this for the first time now after owning the car 12 years

[Walt Fricke]

A guess - the plastic bushings in the bell crank assembly mounted on the left front of the engine have failed? Alternatively, the plastic bushings in the bell crank on the transmission have failed? Something is amiss for sure in the linkage back to the throttle.

But it would be nice if your post said what model this car is, and what modifications to the engine it has, if any. All we can guess is that it is an air cooled 6 and is not a 935.

[ClickClickBoom]

Throttle bellcrank!

[ramonesfreak]

Thanks. I have 83SC under my name and down in signature

No mods

Originally Posted by Walt Fricke

A guess - the plastic bushings in the bell crank assembly mounted on the left front of the engine have failed? Alternatively, the plastic bushings in the bell crank on the transmission have failed? Something is amiss for sure in the linkage back to the throttle.

But it would be nice if your post said what model this car is, and what modifications to the engine it has, if any. All we can guess is that it is an air cooled 6 and is not a 935.

[ramonesfreak]

Ok the throttle linkage components are a total mystery to me at this point but I guess I’m gonna learn....is that part in your link easily accessible with the engine in the car?

Is it fair to say that I could still have bushing problem even through I don’t have any slop or binding in the pedal? That is to say, when I push the gas pedal the first inch or so of travel doesn’t open throttle but it’s not a loose or sloppy feel in the pedal, it’s feels nice and firm which is why it doesn’t really bother me

Originally Posted by ClickClickBoom

Throttle bellcrank!

[ramonesfreak]

Guys isn’t it more likely that this issue is one of adjusting the rod length at some or multiple points in the linkage rather than a brushing issue?

Problem for my own understanding is that any thread I’ve read concerning the adjustment of linkage rods revolves around the issue of not being able to get WOT at the end of the gas pedal’s travel, not slack in the first inch or so of pedal travel.

[Mixed76]

An all-rod system should have only a small amount of slack in the joints. Unless there's a cable in there somewhere. If there's a bad bushing that could allow the rods to slop around a bit.

Does the 2" of travel have any resistance?

[ramonesfreak]

Yes it has a nice firm resistance. Only slightly less resistance than when the throttle is open

This is only something you would notice when sitting still at a light. I can push pedal an inch or two without throttle opening. Doesn’t seem like a big deal and I don’t want to make it a big deal but if it’s something that shouldn’t be there and I can easily fix it, I would like to

[icarp]

try this link to pelican throttle linkage , the slide gate will determine when the linkage at the bellcrank starts to move , all rods must be the right lenght to yeild the proper pedal height and full throttle . I hope this helps
1970 T Throttle linkage

[ramonesfreak]

Assuming that the setup is the same for an 83, that’s helpful to me understanding where the adjustment needs to be made

Thanks

[pampadori]

What Mixed76 said! The 911SC has all rods, no cables. If everything is in good order, there is no slack and no way to add slack. you lightly touch the pedal, the linkage in the engine bay should move.
Only way you could have slack or dead travel is if the plastic bell crank bushings are defective.

[icarp]

RF .. it might help to start with setting the length of the tunnel rod , shorter rod = more throttle movement at the engine . If you pull the rod all the way forward then it should be set at the right spot on the slide gate , now look and guess at the length of the pedal rod to the tunnel rod and pedal height estimate the length and connect the pedal rod .
test for full throttle , have a helper push the pedal while you check the linkage at the throttle body
this is the same on my, 80 SC remember the rod ends have a pin clip on the cup that needs to be removed if your going to change the length , rotate the clip off of the ball neck then slide the pin back out .

[john walker's workshop]

Put something between the seat and pedal to hold it to the floor, then go back in the engine compartment and see if you have full throttle. Lots of cars don't.

[ramonesfreak]

Had my wife press gas pedal all the way and I checked linkage at throttle body and confirmed I have WOT. No issue there at all

Also put my original pedal back on to check and the slack is still there. Amazing I never noticed until I installed the new pedal. Funny how that works

So I guess what I’ll do since I have no safe way to get under the car is have my shop that’s doing my rotors and brake lines and ball joints next Friday look at the bushings at the transmission

My original thoughts about the length of the rods is sorta confirmed by Icarp’s suggestion above. Seems I should be able to dial out some of that slack pedal travel by adjusting rod length but working in that area by the pedal cluster tunnel opening is difficult and I can’t get under the car anyway so I’ll start with having mechanic check the bushings and go from there


Thanks for the help guys. I would be lost without this site and it’s contributors