Trans-engine mating stud bent?
 

From a nearby thread you can probably tell I’m trying to mate my trans and engine in my garage by myself. Am having a hell of a time. I had the shift fork lined up and was sliding the trans on when the fork became misaligned (I tried a zip tie, will try a piece of tape next time). As I was holding the trans and trying to back it off, it got stuck on a stud. After a few @$&! moves later I finally got it off, but the stud was bent.

So I am wondering if I need to replace. I believe I can get the trans back on, but am worried about the strength of the stud. How much load is placed here? On the other hand, how hard are these to replace? Just some heat and they come out? I’ve got heat and it would be pretty easy to replace now. Just have to find one. Let me know what you think. Thanks.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1558206359.jpg

Trans-engine mating stud bent?
 

Double nut the stud, apply heat around the base and remove it. Install the new stud with just a dab of blue Loctite and you should be good.( perhaps no Loctite ) I’m sure others will chime in.[emoji6]

Porsche part number 90006009601 about $5.00

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if you can get it out as described you could try to straighten it. I might fiddle around with that before ordering a new one that likely won't be shipped until Monday anyway so you are delayed as is. identify where the bend is, double nut it at both ends with the bent humped portion at 12 o'clock. if you set the double nuts up so they sit flat and put them on a bench surface a couple licks with a hammer might coax it strait again with stud sitting up off the bench. or heat it and use the hammer less vigorously.

if it does not work you then order another one to be shipped and finish up next weekend...

Ok yeah the weekend is already shot, probably will just replace it. $5 insurance. Thanks much for the part number!

I agree, seems to me that it could be straightened, as it isn't bent sharply. Yea, double nut it and pull it out and see if you can get it straight.

+1
First of all, you have aligned the flywheel with the clutch disk splines with an input shaft dummy shaft, yes?

Rig a movable gearbox support so the input shaft is more or less in line with the flywheel. Then all it will take is a minor lift and forward thrust to slide the input shaft into the clutch disc and flywheel. Wiggle the gearbox inward until the mount surfaces are flush. Do not force the mount surfaces together with the nuts.

Thanks. I didn’t do any work with the clutch, so it should still be aligned.

Got the wrong part number, the stud I bent is the longer one in the top of the pic below.

Can someone help me with the right part number? Looks to be 50% longer than the one I have (the part number referenced above in this thread). Thanks.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1559095403.jpg

Believe it’s longer due to the engine starter being on this side of the trans.

stud at starter 900.061.192.02 the length is 122.6 mm. about 104 mm visible after inserting on my 73.
.

That one is $105.00 :D

Do you need a nudge to look elsewhere? There's plenty of used Porsche parts boneyards as well as Porsche retailers. Perhaps a close/exact fit stud from a company that sells metric fasteners.

Does this help?
https://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/PEL_search_2016.cgi?command=DWsearch&description=9 00.061.192.02

From the posts on this thread, not sure if that's the exact stud needed, but plug the correct number into the internet universe (or Pelican's database) and pretty sure you'll find one that's less than $105.

Sherwood

Or if you want to be fancy and replace them all with nice new hardware...a bit overkill but you could replace them all for the price of the one stud!

https://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/504-9502/10002/-1

I’m now going to look for a way to reuse

911 Rod is kidding, the cost is about six bucks

Shut the front door ... good to know.

Pelican says 900 061 192 02 superseded by 999 062 192 02. But this says it’s only 104mm long, not 122mm?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1559181664.png

max..i would just say leave it alone no need to replace it-the stud is at least 8,8 steel-strong stuff...once you put on the starter it will be tight...later on you can recheck it..don`t waste your time...i have seen worst......one marging the trany you probably know use a duct tape for the To bearing so you can line up the fork..

Ivan

That’s the wrong stud, for G50 that would match the other 3
Try this; 999.062.225.02
Bruce

I think the right number is 900 060 095 01. Will confirm once I get the part.

Hi Tony
Going back to the start of your thread...when I dropped my 3.2 it was also on a wooden platform similar to yours... and the trans was mounted (strapped) onto a HF wooden/carpeted furniture dolly with casters. ($12)

After replacing the clutch/pp/flywheel resurfaced etc. etc. when it came time to mate the trans to the motor... advice I read here on the subject was to slightly lift/raise the rear end of the trans (in reality the front end) while pushing the trans into thr motor.

Don’t think I lifted enough on the first try.... but second try was perfect!!

The trans isn’t that heavy and since it was on (4) casters rolled right in by myself without much effort.

Regards,
JT