+1 on auto-off headlights, inflatable adjustable lumbar support for those longer drives. I love the analog feel and smells of air cooled 911s. Can’t change that!!

I wish the 915 transaxle was on par with a g265 trans/188mm diff from a BMW of the era. They are silky smooth and handle loads of power for boosted application. Essentially I guess a g50 swap but the cost is just too much to be justified.

The stupid phillips head bolts that hold the rotors to the hubs. I replaced mine with allen head ones when doing my brakes, but it would still be nice to have had them "from the factory".

Not that mine functions badly but just a nicer quality feeling turn signal. It feels likes I'm going to break it if I do anything with it haha.

This should be already the case - your headlights should turn off automatically when you turn off the key. But I know what you mean. The parking/running lights will stay illuminated.

But, this is can be changed without much trouble. It's a 10 minute job if you've ever taken out your headlight switch. If you haven't, then you can expect to double that time.

Our headlight switch is a wonderful piece of simple wiring/switching gear in our cars. Power goes in and depending on the position of the headlight switch (off/position 1/position 2) and the ignition key (off or run), it will direct that power to a number of different standard sized terminal pins located on its back.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1560541224.jpg


If you take a gander at this little matrix I made up a few years back, you can see which conditions send the power to which terminals. You can see that the headlights should be ON whenever the ignition key is in the RUN position and the headlight switch is in position 2. Makes sense, right?

But how to get the running lights to go off with the ignition key and on when you pull the headlight switch out to either on position? If you take a look where it indicates terminal N, you will see that it is only pushing power whenever the ignition switch is ON and the headlight switch is in position 1 or 2.

Notice that I indicated on that chart N is for the license plate and ash tray lights? Go out now and check your car. Hit your parking lights only with the key off. All your corner lights will come on. Check the license light - should be dark. Now turn your ignition to the RUN position. Your license light just came on, yes? Cool right?

So how will all this mumbo jumbo help your parking lights turn off with the ignition? Well, also refer to that same chart and you will see that the parking lights indicated (and wired) conveniently as 58R and 58L for your parking lights on the right and left (thank you Captain Obvious). Yeah, so what...?

So if you move your parking light wires to terminal N, they will turn off with the ignition key. If you leave your headlight switch on any position, or if you forget to turn them off, all the lights will go out with the ignition key.

One caveat and some advice: if you do this modification, it's probably a good idea to document which wires you moved from and to, perhaps with little labels behind the switch.

ALSO, and this is important: be sure to move ALL the wires from any of the terminals that you don't want to run when the ignition is off that might run when the headlights are on. This includes anything on pin 30 which is HOT at all times and 58A which I think may be the dash lights, pin 58 and pin 57 which is for the little green light that lights up on your tach when you're driving about with just your running lights turned on. Anything that is on any of those pins that are energized when the light switch is in any position other that off will be energized if they aren't also moved to pin N.

EDIT: Just to be clear, your headlight switch still has to be on for your headlights to work but it wouldn't have to be turned off as they'd go out with the ignition switch off. And there will be quite a few wires to attach to terminal N, so you'd have to use bridging clips or MacGuyver something together to get them on there.

Good luck to anyone trying this out. Think about what you're doing before you do it and test, test, test, because it would really suck to want to go for a drive and have a flat battery because your glove box light has been on for the last couple weeks...

Wow, that's a really great idea! I had to make a run to a local FLAPS to buy one of those manual impact screwdrivers when I rebuilt my parking brakes so I could get the rotor off. I still buggered up the screw and had to replace anyway, but using an allen head would have been a better idea than just using another philips screw.

Yep, I had to buy an impact driver too to replace mine and even ended up drilling off the head on one. M6x12 is the size you need for future reference. :)

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Some kind of switchable traction control would be nice, especially for rainy days. I know oversteer is part of the 911 experience, but it would be nice to have some help with it from time to time!

I also wish that the 3.2 cars had OBDII ports and diagnostics. Check engine lights are a pain in the ass, but those codes can really help track down issues and help make you aware of problems.

And better sound would be great. Engine sounds are awesome, but sometimes you just want great-sounding music for your drive. It's wild how much better the stock sound systems in cars are nowadays compared to what they used to be.

I would love to have a quite ride. Anything above 70 MPH and the radio is useless. I'm working on it.

Kevin,

Nice write up! Taught me something new, thanks!

Do you know , If you are wearing your seat belt the air bag will not help at all.
Just FYI

That was the biggest surprise to me. Feels like a piece of ****.

Anyway, I would change the HVAC system because it doesn't make any sense.

+1 Kevin. Great suggestion and write up!!

OK, maybe since I drove a 914 from 1974 to 1996 and my 911 from 1995 to now, the system make total sense to me. Remember the ventilation system for the car was designed in the 1960s. The heat, fresh air and AC are three separate systems and can be run independently or all three at once unlike most cars.

The heat is simple, pull the levers, and adjust the lever to blow on your feet, or the windshield. Same with the fresh air, feet or windshield, but the fan control is from no fan to full blow.

AC, is like any car, on or off and what fan speed, and the other knob is how much cold. You want the fresh air lever on top all the way to the left to prevent fresh outside warm air to dilute the ac cold air.

More power, EFI...modern engine management, etc.....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jul062yL-U4

regards,
al

That’s simply not true at all. As can be seen in crash testing footage. Stretch and body momentum means that the your head can still hit hard surfaces. The only belts that restrain you enough are racing harnesses. The airbags act as part of an overall system to slow you down.

This is based on my 1975 911S Rat Rod. My ‘89 3.2 is being left alone as its pretty original, in good shape, and worth leaving original. Stuff I have done...the short list

• Modern Headlights (FOZ)
• Modern’ish Engine (964)
• Modern A/C (Classic Retro A/C)
• Lowered Rearview Mirror so I can see more then 50 feet behind me
• Modern Tires (17’s or 18’s in my case)
• Coil overs replacing the torsion bars for a smooth ride when lowered
• Modern window-tint that cuts the heat without being super dark
• Modern blade fuses (Classic RetroFit)
• Modern shift linkage (Stromski)
• Modern suspension bushing for the street (Rebel Racing Semi-Solid front mounts)
• Better alternator (Classic RetroFit)
• Mount for my phone/tablet for navigation and music on long road trips
• Modern brake materials (pads mainly)
• Improved exhaust system
• Better shifter position (moved mine 4” back, 4” up and a much shorter lever to boot) (Rebel Racing)

What else might be nice.....

• Upgrade my 915 to something that shifts better. Love the G50 in my 3.2
• Modern engine management. I am thinking Rothsport short ITB EFI
• A little better/modern sound deadening and heat insulation (I live in Florida)
• Modern 2 stage paint, so it can be polished to fix scratches etc with a simple polish
• Modern windshield seals that actually work and last
• Better tail light bulbs so I am seem better (LED’s)
• New wire loom. Factory is ok, but is so old it needs replacing in most of these cars

Plus often airbags prevent injuries from glass. That said the added weight, and large A pillars that come with an airbag system I would pass on.

^The point is, airbags were designed to protect people who were (are) too stupid to wear seatbelts. Since I always wear seatbelts, I like not having a steering wheel airbag. Now, side curtain airbags--those are useful even if you are wearing seatbelts.

Quick story--my bro-in-law hit a deer going about 55MPH; the deer didn't slow the car down at all and he had a deployed airbag in his face. No bueno.

Bigger engine, Better suspension.......the list goes on and on for me. The better solution is for Porsche to make a future 930X. I want a car with every modern feature that looks identical to my restomod and weighs 2500 lbs or less. A tall order but you said hypothetical.... I would pay new Porsche prices for that car.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1560790071.jpg

Even if Porsche wanted to make a new car that looked just like the old ones, it would be impossible. The legal requirements to sell a car in 2019 mandate all the ABS, Airbags, tire pressure monitors, back up camera, and tons of BS that modem cars have to have to help bad drivers get down the road.

You will have to start with the old tub, and do all the magic, and end up with a Singer and the insane price of a bespoke car, half a million and up.

Where can you get a carbon hood like that?