Everyone has their limitations, but some are at a far lower bar than others! :)

One thing stays constant through all of this noise, Ronnie's meat locker.

My ASSessment of a proper a/c system is the opposite of yours - a system that is not capable of low 30s/high 20s in 90+ ambient, with the fan on max speed, and no evaporator freeze-up, is an underperformer that is in need of improvement.


How about when that IR thermometer takes readings of the passenger's seat (40-45 degrees) and headliner (50-55) on sunny, 96+ ambient with 70% + humidity, TexASS days - do you consider those temp readings inaccurate, as well? And what about when the IR thermometer reads the same as a digital probe style thermometer - just more BS temp data?


Don't be so sure about that; the seat covers, foam, and in some cases, even the carpet (depending on the person's level of sweathoggery) will become so waterlogged and salt laden with the owner's, "look, I ditched that worthless, boat anchor system so my car can now accelerate a 100th of a second quicker on my way to Hooters, and looky how clean the engine bay appears now, too" approach to motoring, that the car will actually gain weight! :D

That's the Mighty Meatlocker, Bobasaurous!!! Yer welcome!!!

I also have the full (4 condensers) Griffiths setup on R134a. Everything new except the deck-lid condenser. The temps depending on fan speed (I have the Griffiths variable fan speed option) are usually 40-43F on hot days. Sometimes it goes down in the 30s. The car is comfortable on a 100F day.

I have the Classic Auto Air full upgrade kit. I was seeing low 30* temps. But then the system started having issues and tuning off due to excessive high side pressure.
I need to get a new expansion valve from them. I tried Napa and we could not get the right one. Smugglers door would not close.
I lowered the pressures to where it would work and still get low 40* temps with insufficient freon on the system.
I think insulation in the smugglers box and sealing the blower panel in the evap case helps a lot. Especially on a 100* day.



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pressures relate to temps.
the Porsche does a piss poor job of regulating the low side. yes you can get very very cold air out of the 911 because of this, BUT you risk the evap freezing up just as mine did. when the low side drops to 20 or less you are looking at temps in the 15 to 20 degree range which i have seen on the 911, including mine with an all new system. that's why most cars have a low pressure switch located on the low side that cuts out at around 20 to 24 psi. its to keep the evap from freezing.
maybe where some of these guys live that can run in the 20's don't have the humidity that we have on the east coast. yes i go out to the mid west and laugh when people complain of the humidity and its so dry "I" don't even sweat. yes i have to change my clothes several times a day if i am working outside at home.

i have been to a month long HVAC school. if your system is blowing below 35 something is not right.


for those that want to use the "magical" refrigerant that is colder than anything else do some research and find out what is in it. it usually has propane and/or other refrigerant, like r22.

its all about pressure= temp. if you want to try to tell me otherwise then you need to do some reading on it.


and yes my probe works, i have to turn the temp up to keep it from freezing. i do have the original fan. low airflow will also make the low side lower and the temps lower. IR thermometer i was in the 20's, i don't like them for that check.

calibrate mech thermometers in a glass of melting ice.