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Replacing All Brake Lines

I'm looking at refurbishing my entire brake system including all hard lines.

Any tips or gotchas when changing out the hard lines? Any issues with the long line from front to rear in the tunnel? Engine is currently out.

Damon

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Damon in STL
1977 widebody with 3.0
1989 BMW M3 M42 1.8 Turbo Race Car
Old 07-12-2019, 04:50 AM
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Hey, nice marmot.
 
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Get a good quality set of flare wrenches if you don’t already have them.

Get some Kroil, a good set of gear wrenches and a tub of patience.

It is easy to round the nuts on those hard lines.
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There are those who call me... Tim
'83 911 SC 3.0 coupe (NA)

You can't buy happiness, but you can buy car parts which is kind of the same thing.
Old 07-12-2019, 05:49 AM
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it's not an overly challenging job with the engine out. Be sure to use new crush washers at the master cylinder. Be prepared to remove the shifter and e-brake assembly to fish the old and new lines in/out. Be aware of the new tunnel line placement and that it's not impeding on anything else.
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Old 07-12-2019, 06:06 AM
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Get a box of these rubber grommets. Depending on the year, these are usually worn or most likely gone. There are a few places that you use these in the brackets to protect the hose or other hoses around it so while you are under there, you can use them. Note that some hoses you may not want to take off - so just cut the grommet and then slide it around.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DB3TBX7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 07-12-2019, 07:15 AM
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While in the middle of refurbishing my front suspension ('71 longhood) (new control arms and bushings , cross member upgrade to aluminum, powdercoat struts, replace ball joints, turbo tie rods, rebuild the steering box) I decided to replace the brake lines since most was exposed and made it easier upfront to remove and replace the front lines. Well, the main line in the tunnel is stuck. With all the suspension junk all over the garage, now I have to pull the seats, shifter, and center console to find out what is sticking. As for the back lines.. one side is easy, the other side the line goes up and over the transmission... not sure how Im gonna do that without dropping the tranny. That... will probably be some other year. I just want to get it all back together so I can drive!!! Kinda thinking I should have just left the brake lines alone... oh well. Just be ready to take more stuff apart than you thought... and then all the "while you're in there" refurbishments!
Old 07-12-2019, 03:25 PM
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If you fab your own hard lines, I've found an assortment of tube benders invaluable. Makes the bends look much more professional. Also a good tube flare tool is essential if you are going to cut to length. Double flares can be a little tricky, so practice a bit before on some scrap.
Old 07-12-2019, 08:12 PM
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Check out my post "a better way to replace tunnel brake lines"
Old 07-13-2019, 05:13 AM
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Thanks for the input!

I've got the proper tools...so, I'm good there.

Grommets are a great idea!

Kroil vs PB Blaster. Hmm...I may end up just cutting out all existing lines.

I have tube benders and nice flare tool....but honestly, I am debating on just buying a pre-bent set just to save time.

Oh, and interior is also currently out. So, easier access.

Cheers,
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Damon in STL
1977 widebody with 3.0
1989 BMW M3 M42 1.8 Turbo Race Car
Old 07-13-2019, 02:43 PM
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Hey, nice marmot.
 
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You'll still have to deal with the caliper ends if you cut the lines out. But much easier to deal with if you can pull it and work on it from the workbench.

I've become a big fan of Kroil. It's worked for me when other stuff didn't. Of course, it could be completely psychosomatic. LOL

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There are those who call me... Tim
'83 911 SC 3.0 coupe (NA)

You can't buy happiness, but you can buy car parts which is kind of the same thing.
Old 07-13-2019, 06:23 PM
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