Dome Light Door Switch Removal

[Gordo2]

I finally decided to look into why my dome light doesn't come on when I open my doors. The dome light works when I move the 3 position light switch to the "on" position; doesn't work when I move it to the "switched" position.

Searched threads - appears most people find that corrosion of the door switch contacts are the root cause.

I went to clean mine up but found that I can't get the little rubber boot off. I'm pulling at it but it seems like it is firmly attached to the switch somehow. It seems like it might rip the switch appart if I just pull at the rubber.

Anyone know if I should just cut the old ones off (the rubber has hardened somewhat).

Thanks, Gordo

[masraum]

Cutting it off shouldn't be a problem. The way it worked on my switches was this



the rubber boot is just a cap that fits around the flared portion of the switch. The switch itself just screwed into the door jamb and had one wire coming off of the back. When you opened the door the switch grounded and the light came on.

[Gordo2]

Thanks for the diagram, exactly as I thought.


Didn't want to turn a small project into something bigger by acccidentally ripping the switch appart/disconnecting the wire.

Based on the location of the switch, it doesn't look like it would be fun to try to get the wire reconnected if it came off the switch and dropped behind the door frame.

Gordo

[masraum]

I'd have to agree, but I can tell you that mine was quite firmly attached.

Good luck.

[rusnak]

be careful when you unscrew the switch from the door post. If the little wire falls back into the door post, you'll have a heck of a time trying to thread it back through again.

[rteague]

did both of mine. boot is difficult to get off and on. DON'T LOSE THE WIRE! I replaced both of mine with new. The old wires have to be cut off so allow enough to comfortably work with whats left.

[Hugh R]

You can buy the rubber boots from PP for a few bucks.

[MIK911]

Same switch, different problem. The hole in the door jam has widened, so now the threaded part of the switch doesn't screw in tightly. This leaves a loose contact, so dome light goes on sometimes, sometimes not, when door is open.
Any suggestions?

[tincob]

Originally Posted by masraum

Cutting it off shouldn't be a problem. The way it worked on my switches was this



the rubber boot is just a cap that fits around the flared portion of the switch. The switch itself just screwed into the door jamb and had one wire coming off of the back. When you opened the door the switch grounded and the light came on.

Reviving an old thread. Amazing that the issues I'm finding with my Targa are all common ones - dome light only comes on in the on position, not in the switched position.

So I need to carefully pull off the rubber boot without ripping it and clean the switch? Or do I need to unscrew the switch to clean it? Or do both?

[Skip1]

As detailed, many problems (including mine some years ago) are related to the design. The rubber wears and is difficult to get off, but not glued, what I found worked was small needle nose pliers or even tweezers to grab the edge to carefully work off one side. When you remove the switch, be careful you don't ground the rear wire as you pull it through, although only a small spark (yes, I know what it looks like), it's better to disconnect the battery (especially if the wire does come off) - they are normally crimped pretty well. I ordered two replacement rubber covers from our host and they can be equally difficult to apply as remove - just patience and a little time and you'll be fine. mine were a little lose in the thread to body contact, but was able to add a small washer in order to take up some of the slack / space, as my problem was the worn thread caused the switch to recess a little too far away from the door, so the light didn't turn off once I replaced it. All works fine now.

Carefully remove the rubber boot, and unscrew the switch. There is also a silver washer of sorts (looks like a small bowl) - be careful you don't bend it. It is retained normally by a small nut. Clean the switch with electrical contact cleaner as necessary. Does the switch turn the light on and off if you push the switch manually without opening / closing the door?

Good luck.

[djcdmv]

Originally Posted by rusnak

be careful when you unscrew the switch from the door post. If the little wire falls back into the door post, you'll have a heck of a time trying to thread it back through again.

Take heed! Ask me how I know.

When I first got my car, the switches were stuck in, so the lights wouldn't go on when the door opened but did work with the rocker switch on the light itself. I removed the rubber boot and found out the plastic part of the switch was bending. Ordered the new parts from our host and put it back together. In my case, I was able to get away with buying just the plastic switch and the rubber boot. Was able to re-use the metal washer (bowl-shaped) piece.

[Andy911sc]

Nothing needs to be taken apart with replacing the rubber boot. Just did mine today. Ripped the old hard rubber ones off and the new ones stretched over really easily. Works great.

[86 911 Targa]

Originally Posted by Andy911sc

Nothing needs to be taken apart with replacing the rubber boot. Just did mine today. Ripped the old hard rubber ones off and the new ones stretched over really easily. Works great.

Same here.

[JJG911]

After cleaning the contacts and being certain that the switch works, you might apply a little bit of BLUE thread locker to hold it in place. Don't use RED as it will be a permanent bond. Also, I found that heating the new covers in the microwave for a few seconds makes them more plyable and easy to install.

[wrxnofx]

Originally Posted by rusnak

be careful when you unscrew the switch from the door post. If the little wire falls back into the door post, you'll have a heck of a time trying to thread it back through again.

Resurrecting an old thread here. I apologize in advance for my ignorance, but can you explain "unscrew the switch from the door post"? I've removed my cover, and I see the switch poking out, proud of the dome-shaped washer. There is a nut that appears to attach the switch to the dome-shaped washer, but it seems like if I remove that nut then the switch will fall back into the door jamb behind the washer.

Do I grab hold of the dome-shaped washer and unscrew it, with the switch attached, from the door jamb as a unit? I think I'm making this too hard.

[A horse with no name]

Originally Posted by MIK911

Same switch, different problem. The hole in the door jam has widened, so now the threaded part of the switch doesn't screw in tightly. This leaves a loose contact, so dome light goes on sometimes, sometimes not, when door is open.
Any suggestions?

Hi...Try wrapping a little bit of steel wool around the part of the switch that screws into the door...More if necessarily.

[Va_Powerman]

Does this switch also affect the power windows? I have some spark-chasing to do, but the fuses that manage the interior lights and the electric windows blow/stay blown, so I have a short somewhere...and this seems to be a logical place to start looking.

[darrin]

Originally Posted by Va_Powerman

Does this switch also affect the power windows? I have some spark-chasing to do, but the fuses that manage the interior lights and the electric windows blow/stay blown, so I have a short somewhere...and this seems to be a logical place to start looking.

the switch DOES affect the power windows -- indirectly. In order to let one take care of rolling up power windows after turning off the ignition, the power window circuit will remain active/live until one opens a door (driver or passenger). Once the door is open, the power window circuit is deactivated. The door open status is determined by these door switches.

Usually a failed door switch manifests itself during diagnosis of a phantom battery drain, as the active window circuit will drain the battery after a week (or less).

[Va_Powerman]

Thanks - could a failed switch also cause blown fuses for the window circuit and the interior lights/clock circuit?

[universeman]

Hey guys,
My 82SC had faulty door switches (I think.) I started to pull one and the d@mn wire fell back into the hole. It was really short though, no way I would have been able to get a new switch on there anyway.

Anyone know how to trace that wire down? I need to lengthen it.

Also, the overhead light is not working but has power (the "tall" side of the switch, the rocker side, has the power...is that the right wiring?) Anyone know? Thanks in advance!