Replacing Fuel Rail Fuel Lines on 3.2L?

88carrera · 09-12-2006, 08:33 PM

Help! I just discovered a substantial fuel leak in the rubber flex portion of the main engine fuel line that feeds the left hand fuel rail on my 3.2L Carrera. I need to replace the line. The line is complex and connects both of the fuel rails to the output side of the fuel filter.

Here is the question: can this line be replaced while the engine is in place? The problem seems to be that there is a "tee" in the line approximately below the idle adjustment that goes as a hard line toward the back of the engine where I cannot see it, but which ends up somehow connected to the output side of the fuel filter. Neither the PET nor the factory workshop manual are of much help in this.

Can anyone tell me if it is possible to get to the connections that I cannot seem to see from the front to do this replacement?

Thanks.

88-diamondblue · 09-12-2006, 08:51 PM

Do a search on the fuel lines. The Porsche part is close to $500 for the front and back lines and both should be replaced. While I was doing a rebuild I sent them to Mesa Hose to be rebuilt. Cost was around $170 to have this done. They are also rebuildable if they leak. They braise on the connectors and make the seperate hoses to connect all together. The stainless braided line is the fuel line. The fronts are done the same way.

88carrera · 09-12-2006, 08:59 PM

Michael,

Thanks for the reply. I can get these lines rebuilt locally without buying new Porsche parts. However, my question is whether or not can I get the thing off with the engine in place or will I need to drop the engine just to replace/rebuild this fuel line?

Zeke · 09-12-2006, 09:24 PM

A suggestion: What one person can do, maybe another couldn't due to size of hands and arms, lack of some tight quarters tools and so on. However, a few enterprising souls have done a partial engine drop, say about 6 inches. Now, it's a new game for all.

88-diamondblue · 09-13-2006, 07:57 AM

I think you would need to do a partial drop or remove the intake/injection system to get to it. At the very least removing the blower and the air filter housing may get you enough room. Loosening the fuel line connections was a bear out of the engine. Limited space could make it very frustrating. I tried locally to get mine rebuilt at all the hydraulic repair shops and nobody had the correct size crimps for the line. If you need close-up pictures of line connections let me know.

cnielsen · 09-13-2006, 08:10 AM

I had Mesa hose do mine as well and they did a very nice job. The only thing is that the parts come back in raw metal so you will need to paint them or send them out for CAD/Zinc plating.

On the subject of removal and installation. It is sooooo much easier if the injection is removed first. This is not that big of deal and I think that a partial engine drop would do the trick just fine.

88911coupe · 09-13-2006, 08:17 AM

I replaced the line from the pressure regulator to the pressure damper but it was a huge PITA...very difficult to get hands in there to do anything.
Not to hijack the thread but can anyone tell me what the vacuum connections to the pressure regulator and damper do? What would the symptons be if they were not sealing properly.
Great engine pic BTW....very helpful.

SoCal70RSR · 09-13-2006, 10:12 AM

cnielsen,

Your engine looks great!

Does Mesa Hose make the fuel lines from scratch or do they need your original hoses to mock them up? Or?

cnielsen · 09-13-2006, 11:14 AM

You need to send them all your old lines. They handle everything else.

88carrera · 09-13-2006, 05:24 PM

How long does it take for Mesa Hose to rebuild the lines and get them back to you?

JeremyD · JeremyD's Garage

Check your local hydraulic supply place - Amazon hose in Tampa did mine. Same day service - around the same money - ~$150

SoCal70RSR · 09-13-2006, 06:27 PM

Jeremy,

Did they swedge (sp?) your old fittings into the new hoses... or are those fittings new? They look new...

JeremyD · JeremyD's Garage

they swedged the old - and cleaned all the fittings

Carrera3.5L · Carrera3.5L's Garage

Well, since I introduced Mesa Hose to the Pelican masses a few years back when they did my 3.2L fuel lines, I'll provide the contact information again to save people the trouble of searching for it...

Mesa Hose & Supply
670 West 17th St., Unit G-5
Costa Mesa, CA 92627
(949) 645-2661

Turnaround depends on how busy they are. Could be anywhere from a day to a week...ask for Scott, real good guy and at $170 a bargain compared to the OE unit which costs a heck of a lot more. Not only does the braided hose look better, but now hoses can be replaced individually in the event of another problem.

If Mike, Jeremy and the guys are posting pics, I feel obliged to do so as well...

Another source to use is BAT in Florida, whom I would have used had they not been recovering from a hurricane at the time when I needed mine done.

Ralph

88carrera · 09-19-2006, 07:32 PM

Thanks to all who contributed to this thread. I just wanted to tell you the end of this tale.

I was able to extract the deteriorated original fuel line without dropping the engine, but it was a bear to do so and took the better part of a day. This was primarily because it was so difficult to see and get at any of the connections, etc. from the front of the engine (mirrors, etc.). I ended up removing a lot of the induction system in order to to gain access.

After removing the original line assembly, I took it to a local franchise of "Tubes n' Hoses" and they put in new flexible lines for a grand total of $90! Compares quite favorably to a nearly $500 cost for OEM! I had them cut off most of the metal line section that goes back from the front "tee" and replace it with flex hose. Makes it MUCH easier to reinstall with the engine in place.

Bottom line: if you are pulling a 911 engine that is more than 12-15 years old, I strongly suggest that you carefully inspect all of the flexible fuel lines with the intention of replacing them while the engine is out of the car. Makes for a much easier job!

masraum · 09-19-2006, 07:39 PM

I was able to replace mine without dropping the engine or pulling the intake. All I had to remove was the heater blower. It's a *****, but can be done. Fortunately the fix is cheap. There's another line that leaks even more commonly than the expensive one. It's all rubber except the ends and runs from the rear of each fuel rail (towards the front of the car) to the rear of the other fuel rail. It's cheap or can be replaced with fuel inj hose and clamps. It's a great "while you're in there" kind of thing.

JeremyD · JeremyD's Garage

There are definitely two seperate lines

The other one goes around the back of the motor to the fuel filter - make sure you replace both!

rick-l · 09-20-2006, 08:00 AM

I replaced that line in my 911 a year ago. old thread and links

The new part 930-110-595-05-M260 is $357 here

I did it with the engine in the car and am not sure that was wise. You have to take off the left intake manifold. The manifold came off easy but the remains of the gasket on the cylinder head was impossible to get off. I think if you drop the engine you can get the hose out the back without disturbing the intake.

If you want to get the old hose rebuilt be sure to mark the orientation of the lines before you remove it. They rotate freely on the old hose.

BoxsterGT · 10-05-2006, 06:29 AM

Perhaps I can help.

I am making up these lines from braided Stainless Steel METRIC hose I purchase from Germany.

I have been making up replacement 911 Oil Lines for many years, and I began looking into these fuel hose assys when our shop started replacing the originals at over $500 a pop.

I will be making more once my July order of fittings arrives. ( I know, its October, but.......they must be on a slow boat)

I will also re-hose your original line if anyone wants that done. The only drawback is the extra time it takes to pull the intake manifolds up to get the original metal assy out & back in place.

The flexible hose assy is much easier to install.

I also sell this on an exchange basis so I can build up an inventory of original ones to sell to those who want the exact replacement.

I am building a fixture to pressure test the assemblies before shipment, so they will be a guaranteed safe replacement.

If you have any questions, you may email me.

len@autosportengineering.com

Cheers,

Len

porschzilla · porschzilla's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by masraum

I was able to replace mine without dropping the engine or pulling the intake. All I had to remove was the heater blower. It's a *****, but can be done. Fortunately the fix is cheap. There's another line that leaks even more commonly than the expensive one. It's all rubber except the ends and runs from the rear of each fuel rail (towards the front of the car) to the rear of the other fuel rail. It's cheap or can be replaced with fuel inj hose and clamps. It's a great "while you're in there" kind of thing.

Hi,

Can you please tell me how you got it out? Also I bought a new OEM line from my parts house for $320.00. It actually had a Porsche parts sticker on it (who knows if Porsche gets it from the same place and almost doubles the price)
I have my blower & air box out and all connections on the fuel lines off. I also took off the connectors on the fuel line that goes across the engine front. (I will be able to do that no problem. A lot of hard wire ties.)
On the line that goes from the fuel filter, under the intake to both fuel rails the rear bolt on connector (it is tall) is stopping me from getting the line through under the intake and out the back (or from the bumper side).
I really don't want to have to take the intake off.
I guess that it will go in the same way it comes out.
Has anyone here been able to do an R&R on this line with the motor in the car and not remove the intake manifold with an OEM line?
Also where can I get another allen head long screw that holds in this line and a hose with a clamp on the motor center front? My dog kicked mine into a stack of leaves and I cannot find it. I have the plastic clamp.
I have owned this car since new and it only has 14,900 miles on it. It is my first time working on a Porsche. I have only worked on Vintage Jaguars and vintage American cars. This is a little different. (when I was younger I did pull out a few beetle motors. But that was 40 years ago)
Thanks for any input as I can't pull this motor as my garage is on a tarp covered dirt floor.
There must be a way that someone here did this job.........thanks!

Jack
1988 Porsche 911 Carrera Cabriolet