Guys, thanks very much!

URO, that's good to know!

Pat, you’re right, it’s a big topic; but I do have a better sense of things, just from this thread!

Fan, thanks for your clearing that up! Polyethylene is the plastic I was referring to and couldn’t remember. Rotomolding was the only reference I could bring to mind. When I helped repair my friend’s kayak, I read about those special adhesives and the welding. That was quite interesting!

What my friend and I did (based on another repair website) is cut some polyethylene a little larger than the crack and ‘melted’ it into place with a heat gun – both inside and outside. It’s held up well, but I have trouble trusting so modest a repair.

Paul, great explanation! The ‘model plastic’ reference for thermoplastic painted a perfect picture. As a kid, I spent hours in my buddy’s basement making dune buggies and dragsters, using the tube shaped plastic from the frames that the model parts came attached to. We’d cut a length to fit, melt an end with a candle and stick it where we wanted – no glue. We made some neat stuff!

‘Thermoset plastics give off heat as they cure...” – that’s interesting. That, of course, makes me think of all the fiber-glassing I do. I don’t know if, technically, catalyed resin qualifies as thermoset plasitc, but it does get hot while curing. And, cured resins don’t burn unless you subject them to considerable heat. I built my kitchen counters in hardwood and finished them with six coats of a slow curing epoxy. I don’t make it a practice, but they’ve endured the occasional ‘hot pot with no place to put’ – pretty well.

All the technical stuff that we get into on this website fascinates me and I really appreciate learning from everyone!

Hey,
I tried to sell my Webb Industries SS CIS box, here and and on eBay. Not a whiff of interest.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-used-parts-sale-wanted/714840-webb-industries-cis-airbox.html

Much better than carbon fiber, was machine quality fabrication. Carbon fiber is difficult to manufacture, look at the guy who was trying to sell CF hoods and lids(Todd), if you think that a CF airbox will sell for less than a thousand bucks, good luck, I had a CIS car, and have also fabricated with CF. The market will dictate viability, CIS cars are a declining breed, when you can buy sophisticated EFI, for 1/4 the price of PMOs and other systems. The market is severely limited.

Question on the airbox...is the 78/79 large port airbox the same as used on the 82/83 large port SC Euro?

Intake runners........
 

The US spec ‘78-‘79 SC’s have 38-mm ID intake runners (-4R). Same as the RoW/Euro SC’s (‘78-‘83) with -4R intake runners. The SC’s with lambda (US/CAN/Japan) have the smaller intake runners (34-mm ID) (-2R).

Tony

To those that are interested, the airbox went with the Crunchmobile, so it's out there. As a fabricator, there is $3-4000.00 thousand worth of R&D and welding into that airbox, if you can buy one it's worth whatever they might be asking. CIS is a good system for a stockish car, that airbox eliminates a couple of prickly problems in the airbox area. The blowoff valve is weapons grade and the welding is approaching art.

I remember having to glue porcelain, too, but only when repairing the bathroom. Because there were difficulties just the same with the fact that the standard glue for some reason did not take anything there and had to certainly come out of the situation non-standard. Used to look on the Internet, what can be glued, found very useful information on this subject. It just described in detail, which is better to pick up glue for porcelain and toilet repair https://gluefaq.com/best-glue-for-porcelain-toilet-repair/ most successfully. Fortunately, it was possible to find the right glue quickly, for example, the same Gorilla Super Glue Gel, it helps to glue such damages on different surfaces as quickly as possible, porcelain is very fast. This makes me very happy, as the standard glue didn't help me in any way. So be sure to take a look and see, I think it's definitely not superfluous.