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Slippery Slope Victim
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Brooklyn, NY USA
Posts: 4,387
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I just finished my Carrera fuel line replacement job on my 85M491.
Although my lines appeared good and after removal still appeared to be good, after all they were 29 years old. First, get your hoses from BoxsterGT, Len. I attempted to do the job in situ but was thwarted by the little bolt that holds the line to the fuel pressure regulator. I just could not get a socket on it. It was too hidden by fuel line and wire harness. I then went with the take off the right side manifold technique first. That was very easy. I then saw the condition of the fuel injectors and made the decision to do a full R&R of the fuel injection system. I took the left manifold off and disassembled all the components. Cleaned and cleaned. I went with alternative fuel injectors from a Jaguar, see Alternative Fuel Injectors. $120 for all six, free shipping and got them in two days. I changed the o ring under the throttle body, cleaned and tested the AFM, cleaned and tested the ICV, checked all vacuum lines and replaced a few. I also changed the fuel pressure regulator and fuel damper and thermo switch on the throttle body, throttle console bushings and return springs because I was in there. Also, I did the triangle of death, oil pressure switch and breather gasket. Now my thoughts. If you decide to change out your fuel lines take the entire fuel injection system and R&R it. There are old parts and pieces that should be changed based on age alone. My car has never started from a cold start better, no hunting and no rich smell!! The engine sounds better, more "even". Acceleration is very smooth and linear, no flat spot or bogging. This job was definatly worth doing. I was a little stressed when I realized that my entire FI system was dismantled and sitting on my bench. But my son put me back on track when he said, "just put it back one component at a time, and you always have the support of the Pelican BBS". The hardest part of the job was removing the intake gaskets from the heads. About half of the gaskets on all the ports were welded on. I sprayed gasket dissolving spray every day and slowly got all the gasket off. I did not remove the shroud but worked under it by lifting it with one hand and scrapping with the other. I do not think that removing the engine would have made the job much easier, but removing the shroud in total would have been better. About half the intake nuts were loose when I went to remove them. I used thick Belleville washers to prevent this in the future. McMaster has 8mm washers that fit perfectly. Don't procrastinate, do this project for peace of mind if nothing else.
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MikeČ 1985 M491 Last edited by NY65912; 02-28-2014 at 08:51 AM.. |
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: sectors R&N, SE Pa
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Quote:
I did everything you said minus the TB O-ring (drat) and using different vendors for the lines and injectors. I used OEM where I could, and I eliminated the constant fuel smell. My peace of mind is much better too. To prove you made the right decision, use a magnifying glass on any old line and observe the exterior jacket as you bend it - nuf said. Congrats to you.
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Dan '87 Targa Carrera 3.2 - Fabspeed Cat Bypass, M&K Muffler, SW Chip Venetian Blue |
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Marysville Wa.
Posts: 22,431
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engine out does make it easier IMO.
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https://www.instagram.com/johnwalker8704 8009 103rd pl ne Marysville Wa 98270 206 637 4071 |
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 561
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Triangle of Death
From the OP regarding his 3.2: "Also, I did the triangle of death, oil pressure switch and breather gasket." Well...that's the job I need to do (likely also oil cooler seals).
Can you experienced hands/experts provide any more guidance on this? Is this approach a reasonable alternative to an engine drop (which I would like to avoid for this leak repair)? If so, I would do the fuel lines, etc. at the same time. Thanks for any opinions. |
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non-whiner
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Slightly right of center
Posts: 5,235
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IMO, the labor to drop the engine is significantly less than the labor and swearing required in trying to do this job with it installed. Also, there is huge peace of mind in knowing the access gave you both ease of component R&R and the ability to completely inspect the entire top of the engine. Very satisfying and just might allow you to avoid an oil or fuel fire. These are well built machines, but these components are upwards of 25 years old!
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"Too much is just enough." |
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Knoxville, TN
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Although I don't have a true 3.2 engine, I do have a carrera intake on my engine with factory fuel rails,lines, all the way down to the carrera hot air blower, and piping. I don't really see what the big deal is with just removing the whole complete intake assembly off the engine. I've had mine off a couple of times, and it usually takes about 30 minutes. That way you can do all this stuff on the bench. It would also give you a chance to fix those pesky oil leaks on the top of the engine.
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Typically we do all 3 engine fuel lines with the engine in the car, 6 hours.
![]() Cardboard on deck lid condenser, less head dents. ![]() Hand ball on deck lid corner, less head dents. ![]() |
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Ontario Canada
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love the hand ball.. i think i have some pre-handball scars..
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1976 Yamaha XS360 ( Beats Walkin') 1978 911 SC Targa ( Yamaha Support Vehicle ) 2006 Audi A4 2.0T (Porsche Support Vehicle ) 2014 Audi A4 2.0T Technik (Audi Support Vehicle) |
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I did all of this on my 3.2 and would of loved to have used the cardboard trick, as I also have some scars! I don't see where dropping the engine, just to replace these parts makes sense, at least not for me.
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Marysville Wa.
Posts: 22,431
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any good alternate source for that short curved hose? about $175 at the dealer and special order. i know len makes them in SS.
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https://www.instagram.com/johnwalker8704 8009 103rd pl ne Marysville Wa 98270 206 637 4071 |
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non-whiner
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Slightly right of center
Posts: 5,235
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Goose, my comment about dropping the engine was where fuel lines, oil leaks, and other topside maintenance was required.
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"Too much is just enough." |
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: New Hampshire
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![]() ![]() Actually I only offer the "J" hose in plain rubber at $75. I have been out of stock for a while, but expect more in by mid-December. Please email me for details. NY65912- Thank you for the kind words. Len at Autosportengineering dot com ![]() |
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Slippery Slope Victim
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Brooklyn, NY USA
Posts: 4,387
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Len, thank you for the super fast service!
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MikeČ 1985 M491 |
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Slippery Slope Victim
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Brooklyn, NY USA
Posts: 4,387
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Jhoagg, I would say to remove the intake. After that it was easy to do the oil press switch, etc.
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MikeČ 1985 M491 |
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 561
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Mike (and others),
Thanks for the advice. I'm going to give it an "engine in" try - removing intake, etc. If I find I get stymied, I will just have to "stop and drop". |
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non-whiner
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Slightly right of center
Posts: 5,235
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Stop, drop, and give me 20!
Sorry, old training kicking in. Good luck and post your progress!
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"Too much is just enough." |
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Join Date: Mar 2013
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I recently had some preventative maintenance done on my 86 3.2 with 86k original miles. The car ran great before the work was done however the original engine compartment fuel lines needed be replaced. Decided to drop the engine and transmission and replace the following parts "while in there".
-oil warning pressure switch -thermostat oil o-ring -top breather housing gasket -re & re oil cooler, cleaned the cooling fins and replaced o-rings -replaced the 3 engine compartment fuel lines (used Len Cummings flex lines) -intake gaskets & spacers between intake and cylinder head -replaced the original cracked fan housing with aftermarket aluminum housing -replaced alternator with NOS Valeo unit -dist. Cap, rotor, wires and spark plugs -two camshaft oil feed lines -CAT replaced with M&K Euro Pre-muffler -engine mounts (Club Sport mounts) -crankcase ventilation hoses -oil 'S' hose -speed, reference & head temperature sensor -air and fuel filter -rear main seal -flywheel and clutch assembly (Sport Lightweight Patrick MS USA/Centerforce) -transmission shifter fork gasket -changed transmission oil (Swepco 210) -valve adjustment -engine oil and filter (Brad Penn 20W50) -installed new engine insulation pad -scope & adjust (O2 sensor disconnected AFR set richer than factory spec) |
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: New Hampshire
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![]() ![]() Here's my "soft" version in rubber.......... ![]() and here it is in Braided SS............. ![]() Happy to answer any questions by email only. Len at Autosportengineering dot com ![]() |
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Park Ridge, IL
Posts: 1,240
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I got Len's stainless steel soft version installed recently. They are very well made, and installed in a couple hours with engine insitu.
Thanks to Len, Dave
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Dave McKenzie 1984 Carrera 3.2 1984 928S Automatic 2001 996TT |
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