Tony & Pmax,

Ooops! I forgot to share these photos of my oil sump. I filtered the oil and found bugs, leaf fragments, all organic material -- as you can see. I didn't find any metal, even when putting a magnet to the mess.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1567350790.JPG

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1567350790.JPG

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1567350790.JPG

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1567350790.JPG
,

That sump strainer and flange is supposed to be one piece.

Hi John,

Thanks so much! I've never taken one down and might not have caught that if you hadn't mentioned it! I guess I'll have to order a new one.

Any comments on my not finding any metal, or my lousy photos? Do you think it's safe to restart the engine?

Sump screen.......
 

Robert,

Your Venturi sump screen is bad and defective. Like what JW mentioned earlier, it should be a one-piece unit. The metal screen has separated and no longer effective to screen debris going to the oil pump. You need to replace it before you try to run the motor.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1567366214.jpg

Tony

Tony,

I installed the new fuel pump and did some more testing and double-checking this afternoon.

I did the Warm Control Pressure Test with 18” Hg vacuum applied to the side port on the WUR as indicated in the CIS Workshop Manual.

Battery voltage during these tests was 13.0 to 13.2 v.

Here are the results:

System Pressure: 70 psi (specification is 65 to 75)
Cold Control Pressure: 20 psi (specification is 25)

Voltage to WUR before testing: 11.2 v

Warm Control Pressure (no vacuum): 32 psi (specification is 39 to 46)
Warm Control Pressure (with 18” Hg vacuum): 38 psi (specification is 47 to 53)

Residual Pressure after Warm Control Test:
After 10 minutes 23 psi (specification is 25)
After 20 minutes 22 psi (specification is 22)

As it says in the CIS Workshop: “If warm control pressure cannot be brought into
specification, replace the warm-up regulator.”

So I guess I need a new WUR!

RE: the pump strainer. I actually had a replacement available that I took off a second engine. It’s all screening, attached to the flange, without the sloped metal part. If you have one available like the ones in your photo, I'd be interested.

Thanks for the help!

Well I'm kind of chuckling reading this thread. That's only because that's very very similar to what the 82 I was working on did. It would surge up and down at idle and die. I could drive the car fine at speed but as soon as I pushed the clutch in it would die. What made it so strange was this was after I had performed a smoke test and fixed the various intake leaks the car had. All mine was, was that the fuel distributor was improperly adjusted. It ran better before I fixed the leaks. Turns out the fuel distributor had been adjusted several times to account for the unmetered air. As soon as I fixed the leaks the car wouldn't run anymore. I wouldn't be surprised if your problem is much more involved than this, but if you haven't done a smoke test, that's the first thing I would do and then I would check the fuel distributor adjustment. Tony knows more about these things than anybody, he's the one that helped me out. So if he's not guiding you down that path maybe there's something I'm missing.