pics of 901 transmission clutch cable hookup

[neiltorda]

Can someone post a pic of how the clutch cable attaches to the fork on a 71(ish) 911 with a 901 transmission?

I need to know if I am missing parts.

I posted before about my transmission issue, problem was a broken pivot pin for the release fork. or at least i thought so.

I am wondering if anything else is missing - as i have been reading in the technical article on replacing the clutch cable, it refers to the helper spring
pictured here from the article:



I don't have anything like this on my car. When i got around to removing the engine, the release fork was hanging loose out of the transmission, and the clutch cable was no longer attached.
I don't have this piece? Should I?

What other pieces might i be missing?

HELP!!!!!

[jluetjen]

BTW -- I might be wrong, but I think that you've got a 911, not a 901 transaxle. The 911 was used in 70 and 71 prior to being replaced by the 915. The clutch cable arrangement is different between the 901 and the 911.

[project 911]

Well, I can't seem to find a pic of the setup but you should have something that looks like the following pic (although yours may be plastic) And a small round, slotted, stepped metal thing about a half inch long that fits on the very end of the cable. It slips over the end of the cable, then seats into hole in the trans housing to anchor the end of the cable.

[neiltorda]

a 911 transaxle?

i hadn't heard of that before. Several people have mentioned that the 71 was different from both earlier and later models, so that would explain it.

John Walker's Workshop hopefully will post with the answer, he seems to have the answer for all my questions!

I am hoping to order all my parts today, but i don't want to forget anything.


thanks again for the help
neil

[Grady Clay]

Here are three links. I’ll find the best one with the images from the Factory Workshop Manual.

’70-’71 clutch”
clutch cable for 70-71 901
and
'70-71 T.O. arm play?
and
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/166598-clutch-cable-70-71-901-a-post1520882.html#post1520882


The image you posted is from a 915 with the helper spring.

I’ll edit this in a few minutes.

EDIT the first thread (166598) has the good illustrations.

Best,
Grady

[neiltorda]

Grady - Thanks a bunch! That is exactly what i needed!

From this diagram, I am missing parts 82, 82, 83, 85 and 84.
They must have come off when everything came undone when the pivot bolt broke.
Does anybody know what those parts are called so I can order them today?



i want to try and get my parts ordered today so I can have them for this weekend.

Thanks again!

[project 911]

#82 are nuts
#83 is a cluth pin
#85 is a rubber boot

[Grady Clay]

#82 The two “Hexagon Nut” E 900.078.019.02 (E means extinct in PCNA system.) You should be able to find some good used in a shop somewhere. A regular hex nut won’t work.

#83 The “Articulated Piece” 911.423.212.00 is the OE plastic piece. There is a better metal part here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/pel_search.cgi?command=DWsearch&description=articulated+piece+1970&I1.x=6&I1.y=3

#85 The “Sealing Sleeve” 914.423.922.02 is the little rubber boot and is very important for cable life.

#84 The “Nipple” 911.423.213.00 is the little metal part that attaches the end of the cable to the casting.

Pay particular attention to the condition of the guide ring cast into the transmission differential side cover.

Best,
Grady

[neiltorda]

Pay particular attention to the condition of the guide ring cast into the transmission differential side cover.

Best,
Grady

Grady,

I dont have a ring in the side of my differential.

I have just a semi-circular piece bolted on to the side.

when I put everything together how does the fork get behind the TOB?

In all the pictures online they show the fork that attaches to the tob, not the one that sits behind it. How can I tell if it is in the right position once the engine/transmission are together

thanks
neil

[Grady Clay]

Neil,

Go back and delete your most recent thread, it is better to post here. On that thread, go to your initial post and click on “Edit” then click (twice) on "Delete" buttons.

The clutch release bearing has two flats along side that the fork will slip past. You then rotate the bearing 90 degrees so the fork drops into a pair of detents in the bearing. You can spot these because the bearing is reinforced here. The finger spring at the pivot keeps the fork loaded in place.

You gain access to this via the holes in the top of the transmission. Easy when out of the car. Much more difficult but is doable when installed in the car.

You are going to need to fabricate or purchase a new CIRCULAR guide piece for the clutch cable. The alternative is to replace the transmission differential side cover with new, $$$. That part has to be in place for the clutch to operate. Go back and look at the first link I posted.

Best,
Grady

[neiltorda]

Grady,

Thanks for the info, i will copy the question from the other thread into this one for future reference.

i already took the engine/transmission back out this morning.

with fooling around with it this morning, i think i figured out where the fork goes, but it doesn't seem to stay there. There is quite a bit of play in the release fork and it seems to slip back off the TOB.

----

What is the corcular?
On this pic which is in the thread you told me about it shows the what looks just like a clip that the cable sits in. That's what I have, but rotated 180º (my opening is on the bottom, not top as in this picture.
is that right? or am i looking at this pic wrong.

[Grady Clay]

Sorry for the typo.

The circular guide is cast into the transmission side cover. In the above image it is directly below the CV joint. It sounds like yours had previously worn through and been replaced with an aftermarket or homemade piece that bolts in place. If it has worn through you need to make a new part to bolt on. Can you post some images?

Now that you have the engine and transmission out, separate them and confirm all the clutch release parts are there. I address that in gruesome detail in the above links. The two key issues are the pivot pin must be the upgrade type or you will get an unpleasant surprise at the most inconvenient time. The other is the finger spring keeps tension on the fork so the bearing can’t rotate to the flats.

Best,
Grady

[neiltorda]

here is the semi circular piece i have.





I am using the upgraded pin (solid metal, not plastic multi piece one)
I also have the little finger spring in their as well.

Should I be able to push the release arm towards the engine (the same way depressing the clutch pedal would) by hand? I tried to push to make sure the TO was coming towards the transmission/away from the spring, but i wasn't able to do it. How much pressure should it take to do that?

[neiltorda]

2 more pics:

Here is the fork on its pivot in the case



This second one is the throw out bearing.
I can get the arms of the fork to go behind the tabs that stick out on the TOB, but they don't seem very secure. If i move the release fork side to side, the fork pops off those tabs. i'm afraid when i go to hook up the clutch cable, it's going to make it come loose.



Also, is the throw out bearing where it is supposed to be? when I hook everything up, the fork should pull the bearing towards the transmission. But it seems like it is already pulled out as far as it will go. How can i determine if it is ok?

[neiltorda]

Ok, I gave up several hours ago....
But i have been thinking about the problem. I said that I could get the fork behind the ears, but I don't think it really was. I could see that one side of the fork was behind one of the ears, but I don't think both were. I think the other may have been in front of the tab, that is why, when I moved the fork side to side, it would pop off.

As I read in the Haynes manual, and also this evening in "Up fixin der porsche" volume III, they both state to use a sleeve and bolt setup to release pressure on the clutch so that you can turn the tob the 90º to then separate the engine from the transmission.

So i got to thinking, maybe that's my problem. I didn't need to do that to take the engine out because my pivot bolt had broken and that was why i was in there to begin with. I think what is happening is that there is too much pressure on the TOB, so I can't get the fork completely behind it on both sides.

Tomorrow, I am going to give this a shot, make up some sleeves as described and see if i can't get a little more room to work with.

Does this sound like it might be my problem?

By the way, I have been taking pictures of every step of this, plan on putting up a page about 71t's for future reference. Thought i should share the love!

neil

[randywebb]

Can you post the type # for your trans?

And, yes, that could be the problem.

[neiltorda]

this is a pic of the serial number on the transmission:

[Grady Clay]

Neil,

Sorry, the docs had me all morning. I get to visit another group at 7 AM tomorrow.


Have you had the clutch apart to look at the disc, pressure plate, flywheel, and clutch release bearing connection to the pressure plate? The image is difficult to interpret but it does look like the pressure plate spring fingers are out toward the transmission.

Remove the release bearing from the pressure plate and inspect the spring fingers.

I can also see where the pressure plate has been rubbing the fork. That is usually a sign of things out of place. That can be from several causes but the most common is a worn disc. It can also be from the flywheel having been machined too far and then worn.

You can bend the finger spring to get more or less force on the clutch release arm.

Some other tidbits and “while you are there":

Fit the clutch disc splines to the input shaft. Clean the inputshaft splines with a brass tooth brush and ever-so-lightly lube with molly grease. Make sure there isn’t any excess. Clean the splines in the disc hub with a wire bottle brush and again ever-so-slightly lube with molly. Test fit the disc to the input shaft. Clean off any excess grease. Make sure the disc can float easily on the shaft.

Replace the input shaft seal in the transmission.

Grind a drain path in the clutch release bearing guide tube and install the “Dam Seal.” There are several threads on this. There are two different length guide tubes. The ’70-’71 is longer than the earlier version.

With the clutch off the flywheel, your little finger can inspect inside the pilot bearing in the center of the flywheel. You want to make sure all the needles are in place in the bearing. If you have the flywheel off the crankshaft you should summarily replace the pilot bearing. I consider the flywheel bolts a “use once” bolt. Remember that the ’65-’69 bolts are different length from ’70-’71.

If you replace the pressure plate I would also consider new bolts and lock washers (9). Be sure to check for the correct length, they must not protrude out the back of the flywheel and contact the crankcase. Don’t forget to reinstall the ring gear.


OK, back to the semi-circular guide for the clutch cable.
It appears that the side cover doesn’t have the boss to support the clutch cable and someone jury-rigged that semi-circular part. It is in the wrong place (too far forward) and doesn’t correctly support the cable. It looks like that may be a 914 side cover or perhaps it is positioned wrong. Take the semi-circular bracket off and post some images of the side cover. You should do some searching for the correct part. Perhaps JW can help.

Is the support loop (#81) in place?

What is the condition of the chassis where the forward end of the clutch cable Bowden tube seats?

Keep coming with the questions and images.

Best,
Grady

[Jandrews]

Neil,

This procedure is really not as hard as it may appear at this very moment. Stick with Grady and you will have that whole clutch setup fixed in no time.

By the way, I have the same 911/01 from '71 that you do. I went through all of this with mine and it is perfect now.

Best,


John

[randywebb]

IF that cover plate is not stock then you should rig up your own boss out of something strong. Grady can guide you & Jandrews could maybe post a pic of his.