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Not that I am an expert.
I did the same exact section (bumper brace) - similar approach - I used a bit of bondo to smooth out the welds so it would look as stock as possible.. I also used some POR 15 to go around the area of the bumper brace.. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1571687662.jpg I used UPOL Gravitex to mirror the coating.. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1571687662.jpg I thnik it turned out well.. for a two car garage operation.. |
Inside with a bit of bondo..
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1571688047.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1571688047.jpg I think it just makes the patch unnoticeable - not that your hiding anything - it's just that most people wont know when inspecting (unless your a body man).. |
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Wax and grease remover is also an important step along with the drying and spraying timing. The manufacturer of the epoxy is smarter than me! Are you using the filler to smooth the welds a bit? That can be done after epoxy preferably. Tom |
High Life thanks for your reply. The repair looks solid.
Tom the reason I am asking about fiberglass filler is that after some research on the internet some people use fiberglass filler after welding to seal any tiny cavities or pin holes to keep moisture out. The epoxy primer I will be using is DP90 by PPG and I am unsure if I should dress the welded areas with fiberglass filler before I apply the epoxy primer. |
I'll let Tom answer your question - However I personally used epoxy first then smoothed / filled after. The epoxy I used stated on the can to do so..
One note, I didnt use much at all filler.. maybe, maybe an 1/16 after sanding..but it filled in the pinholes. I did read that this is somewhat of a debate in the autobody world: Epoxy or No Epoxy Under Filler - Autobodystore It may have to do with the brand of epoxy / type of filler - etc. etc. but I have had no issues (bubbling cracking etc) after 2 years.. |
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Cleaning the pinhole is the hard part, right? At the risk of sounding like a know it all jerk, here's what I would do: Go over the pin holes with a TIG welder until there are no pin holes. Overkill, YES, but TIG has its advantages and pin hole free is one of them. I'm sure I'm in the minority of dudes who TIG weld suspension pans and even simulate the spot welds! |
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I havn't posted much in this thread, but I have been somewhat working on the car. I took a brake from the suspension pan and decided to overhaul the front suspension components.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1598904504.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1598904604.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1598904757.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1598904855.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1598905130.jpg |
Disassembled everything, salvaged what I could and sent the rest to Rebel Racing.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1598905755.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1598905906.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1598906013.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1598906121.jpg Spindles are raised 19mm and reinforced. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1598906257.jpg |
Looks like this may be in my future soon on my 82sc. Do you still have the Jig? I live in NY and would be interested in buying it or renting it off you.
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