Cannot get Enough Caster!

[Driven97]

Some of the alternate top mount options have a smaller bearing that helps a little vs the rubber donut in the oem plates.

[Vincent Hill]

Originally Posted by stlrj

The easy way to get more caster is simply by raising the front end.

Excellent Thinking. What I will do to find out how much is Practical, maybe “1” inch at a time, raise it up and see how much I can gain and not look like a “GASSER”
Drag Car of the 1960’s.

It is starting to look like I may need
New Strut Mounts
Raise the Front of the Car
Notch the Mounts to the Max.

If I can get Mid to high 6’s then I can live with it.

[Vincent Hill]

Originally Posted by Driven97

Some of the alternate top mount options have a smaller bearing that helps a little vs the rubber donut in the oem plates.

There right now. Talking to Elephant Racing because they Make Adjustable “Camber” Plate But not Caster. Yes the Top is a LOT Smaller (even if it is Pricey). The only Draw back is the Front side of the Shock Mount. The Mounting Bolt would have to be Notched into that lip and to Maintain the Strength, I would need to add (Weld in) a piece of Angle steel to keep the Strength AND have a place to continue the Notch for the Bolt.

Right now my Thought is to get the Bushing they sell ($100 for a set) And Remove the Strut Tops And Press In this new Bushing and then “KNOW” if that is really part of the Problem. My Hope is that just that will add maybe .5 to 1.0 to the Caster. Then the Rest is Easy! I really do not want to cut out that area unless I have NO Other choice.

I am still trying to get over that my Cheap 1982 BMW 320i I can buy a Plate for under $100 and move that Strut to ANY degree of Caster and Camber.

I am taking a look at a Mustang Strut Mount That has all Of these Adjustment and for about $75. I need to buy a Junk one and see what the measurements are.

[Arne2]

Originally Posted by Vincent Hill

There is about equal space between the Tires and the Fenders Front and Rear side to side.

That tells me that the rear is too high, or the front too low. Fender gap is not a really accurate way to measure (which I'm sure you know), but in general, a 911 that is sitting relatively level (or set to factory ride height spec) has a fender gap at least ˝" bigger on the front, often as much as 1". Fenders are cut out larger by the factory to allow for the wheels to steer.

[Vincent Hill]

Originally Posted by Arne2

That tells me that the rear is too high, or the front too low. Fender gap is not a really accurate way to measure (which I'm sure you know), but in general, a 911 that is sitting relatively level (or set to factory ride height spec) has a fender gap at least ˝" bigger on the front, often as much as 1". Fenders are cut out larger by the factory to allow for the wheels to steer.

You know this car. Yes, as I said elsewhere I had to raise the car. I do have it sitting Fairly “Level”. I did this On Flat Ground with a Level on the Door Sill And Measuring from the Floor Pan in the “4” Corners. Now it is slightly “Down” in Front (Tank Full). I had one of those Porsche Spec Little Books And Have No idea where it is now.

I just took a look and Feel. It has just about Equal Distance Between the Tire And Fender. So this WILL help the Caster if I raise the Front. Now I do not know if i am going to like the Look but if Raising it maybe 1/2” I can Gain .5 in Caster, then THAT is Exactly what I am going to do. (After some Research to KNOW where the car should be!!

Thank you for bringing this up in a Way “Even I can Understand”!!

[stownsen914]

You measured your garage floor or platform to make sure it’s flat, right (or use shims under the ties as needed)? It’s common for a floor that looks flat to be slanted 1 degree or more, which would obviously throw off your measurements by that amount.

[Vincent Hill]

Originally Posted by stownsen914

You measured your garage floor or platform to make sure it’s flat, right (or use shims under the ties as needed)? It’s common for a floor that looks flat to be slanted 1 degree or more, which would obviously throw off your measurements by that amount.

Used Level on the Door Sill and Backed the car on a ramp to get to level. Yes because a Few “Degrees” ANYWHERE Adds or takes away from the Caster. A Degree is a Degree.

[Driven97]

Originally Posted by Vincent Hill

I am still trying to get over that my Cheap 1982 BMW 320i I can buy a Plate for under $100 and move that Strut to ANY degree of Caster and Camber.

I am taking a look at a Mustang Strut Mount That has all Of these Adjustment and for about $75. I need to buy a Junk one and see what the measurements are.

Where everyone else uses a flat shock tower, Porsche decided to do a hemispherical one. Maybe for strength reasons? I don't know. But that makes the plate mating surface a lot more expensive. There's cheap cast camber plates on eBay, but the bearings on mine died almost instantly. I retrofitted some nicer bearings but at that point it's a total PITA.

I did buy a set of the KW ones, which have a unique design of putting the bearing flush with the plate instead of above it. Much smarter, as you can slip the bearing under the sheet metal further without modification to the tower. Small loss of strut travel is fair. Unfortunately, the design is also real dumb as you can't use them to get the camber they're designed to get without chopping up the plates.





Not sure if these would hep you get the range you're looking for, but something like this might let you get away with modifying only the mounting holes and being able to leave that rolled lip center hole. Me, I wasn't comfortable modifying anything up there.

I think the smartest product would be a top mounted bearing plate that moves in both axes, but that doesn't exist.

[Vincent Hill]

Originally Posted by Driven97

Where everyone else uses a flat shock tower, Porsche decided to do a hemispherical one. Maybe for strength reasons? I don't know. But that makes the plate mating surface a lot more expensive. There's cheap cast camber plates on eBay, but the bearings on mine died almost instantly. I retrofitted some nicer bearings but at that point it's a total PITA.

I did buy a set of the KW ones, which have a unique design of putting the bearing flush with the plate instead of above it. Much smarter, as you can slip the bearing under the sheet metal further without modification to the tower. Small loss of strut travel is fair. Unfortunately, the design is also real dumb as you can't use them to get the camber they're designed to get without chopping up the plates.





Not sure if these would hep you get the range you're looking for, but something like this might let you get away with modifying only the mounting holes and being able to leave that rolled lip center hole. Me, I wasn't comfortable modifying anything up there.

I think the smartest product would be a top mounted bearing plate that moves in both axes, but that doesn't exist.

AMEN To 100% of everything you said!!

You Truly have Been There and Done That! WOW �� What is the Brand of those plates Where did you buy them! How much?

Thank you for posting this. BTW, it looks like for Camber Adjustment, you must make Marks on the Plates and make your Setting then Mount them “THEN” check your Camber. Then remove them and make more adjustments and remount until you have the settings you want. My thought is that they needed to do this USD so you could leave them mounted and make the adjustments Under the Tower.

[Driven97]

They're KW camber plates, I bought them from, uh, not our host.

[Vincent Hill]

Originally Posted by Driven97

They're KW camber plates, I bought them from, uh, not our host.

I know they (our Hose does sell Elephant products.

BTW, I raised the Front to its Max but not level so this reading is off By “0.5” so the real reading is 6.5