AC Vent Relocation '85 Carrera
 

I have just purchased a complete front-to-rear duel Griffith's system, and to repeat, as so many other have, Griff is the best and the quality of each piece just blows me away.
This post is ONLY about relocating vents to raise their level on the dash. ONLY.
Here's my plan:
1: Adios clock
2: Move the fuel/oil level gauge to the clock hole
3: Put a "eyeball" vent on the far left in the hole vacated by the gauge
4: I am thinking about reshaping or making a new vent that will go in the ashtray location. I did get Griff's vent (it is awesome) but I know my right knee will ice over. If I raise the level just a bit it would be best for me. I've hardly opened the ashtray in 7 years of ownership. As you can see by the photo, a vent there would look very factory, IMO.

My questions relate to the left vent in the gauge hole and what hoses in that location are doing. I am hoping that I can simply (is there "simply" in the 911 world at all?) take the cold air hose in the frunk and run it to the back of the eyeball vent behind the dash.
Red arrows are hot air, blue are cold air. Hot air comes from the engine and splits near the frunk release, sending some hot air to the small side vent, and to the dash in the frunk. At that Y cold air comes in from the smaller frunk tube to the side vent as well. The small side vent will only blow hot from now on.
Am I correct in this, and have I been clear enough?
I appreciate the help, Pelican has saved me so many times.

View of the right side in the frunk:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1569603685.jpg

Interior view looking at the left hand blower/hoses from the engine:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1569603711.jpg

Ashtray vent possibilities.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1569603964.jpg

Hey Paul,

I did similar in terms of the dash vent. I had read a lot about a ford f-150 vent, but didn't like the look.

I ended up finding a dash vent from an Audi, A4 I think, that had the right look and feel, and the best part, unlike the ford vent, I slipped the rubber ring from my clock onto this beast and it slid right in. Very adjustable, nice look and feel.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1569606182.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1569606182.jpg

Thanks Lewis, exactly my plan......

FWIW, that looks exactly like the vent in our 2013 A3.

So a follow up on my vents:

My winter project is now underway, a new Griffiths AC system, front to back, two condensers, completely replacing the factory system. Just like Grif instructs, no variations, except....

I've been trying to rethink the small vents, and did order the butterfly vent from Grif, but the position, attached to the underside of the ashtray, would only freeze my knee (I'm tall).

Like I said in my first post, my goal is to not only add vents but keep them as high as I can on the dash.

So realizing that you can only improve by sacrificing something else, I decided to remove the clock, not for the (great, perfect) Ford vent everyone uses, but to be the new home for the fuel/oil level gauge. Not too hard to move, just had to unwrap some wiring so it would reach.

The Ford vent is now in the far left hole that gauge left, something many have done. It will be a cinch to put the factory cold air hose right into the back of this vent. I ordered the vent from Ford factory parts and it arrived the next day. I'll think about trimming the flange down a bit so it doesn't sit so far out and will match the gauges more.

To add air higher in the center, I found the Dorman company, they make vents for commercial trucks, their vent 216-5101 is just about the perfect size to fit in the radio hole (yeah, I'm losing the radio) and is bigger than the Griffiths vent. The Dorman vent is $10.80 (!!) on Amazon and is very high quality plastic. I ordered a couple of Porsche radio blanking plates (one to screw up, one for the final!) from our hosts, cut a hole, and the Dorman vent went right in like it is made for it. The Dorman vent is $10.80 (!!) on Amazon.

I'll experiment with hooking up a iPhone straight in to the amp under the passenger seat, but I'm not a huge stereo guy anyway and have zero car stereo knowledge.

Once I get Grif's system in, I'm set.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1574448487.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1574448506.jpg

Hey paul. Good stuff so far.

What I found after I trimmed the vent down a bit is the best fit was without the factor porsche rubber ring. Instead the bezel of the vent will be a lovely fit just right into the clock or gas gauge hole. It basically fits flush. Perhaps a loop of stick-on black foam insulation tape would allow you to get the vent to sit just proud of the opening in the dash providing a similar appearance to the gauges.

Yup, I found that out too, you're right, I think I'll go to the hardware store and look for a thin O ring, when the nekked gauge is in the hole without the Porsche rubber ring the white body paint isn't covered by the dash leather. Good advice, thnx!

See you in Feb.? #hillcountryrallye Hope so!

Just a quick question about the whole install of the Griffith's system, how hard was it and what were the most challenging install problems? I will be ordering this next week, not the whole $3500 kit but about 3k with items not ordered that can be installed later without getting rid of the freon. I really like the idea or removing the clock and adding a vent up top. Steve

I did my upgrade over 10 years ago. None of it is difficult if you are just a typical work on your own car type of guy. It is very dirty, replacing the hoses unless you have some super clean show car.

The only part that takes more than average skill, is pulling the vacuum and charging the proper amount. Many people find local AC shop willing to do something that is not the average car AC work. Most shops want to pull a vacuum for 30 minutes or so, and call it good. The many long lines on the 911 make that a bad idea. I am a belts suspenders and Velcro type of guy. I pull vacuum for many hours, then pressurize the system with dry nitrogen. Look for leaks with soapy water. Then back to another round of vacuum and nitrogen. Then a final round of a long pull on the vacuum pump with fresh oil in the vacuum pump. Then finally the proper charge.

The moisture can freeze into ice, when pulling a vacuum, and hide in the system. No professional will go through those steps so I just invested in the vacuum pump, and a nitrogen tank and regulator rig.

I just prefer total overkill on the vacuum to be 100% sure is is dry in there.

Glen, thanks for the info. Basically sums up what I have read, dirty job but a PIA, but can be done. I like the idea of pulling a vacuum and loading it up with nitrogen. I do have a vacuum pump and can do that part plus check for leaks. Thanks again. Steve

PS to original poster. Sorry for hijacking your thread.

Steve, slow reply, sorry if I'm holding you up. I might regret this but.....this is so easy and fun!
The Griffiths system is amazing, and like everyone says, follow his instructions! I read the instructions 3 times, once looking at the car and once comparing it to several Pelican installs I bookmarked here. I was concerned about wiring, but the instructions walk you through it.
I'm lucky, my car is very clean so dirt isn't a prob, but I clean before I disassemble, then again when all of the old stuff is off. I'm in no hurry (winter, yay!) so I just do one thing every few days. The compressor and engine condenser are out, the left wheel well condensers are in. Next up, rear wiring and some hoses, then start to move forward down the left side. I'll remove everything from the front left wheel well, including washer bottle, then scrub before installing things.
I am dreading the frunk evaporator work, just because it is so cramped and I'm kinda less flexible than I used to be.
I have a good friend in the AC biz who will vac, then pressurize the system, then charge it per Griffins instructions.
As far as my dash, I wanted air higher in the car, it too was easy, I had to make some plenums from foam core and plumbing tubes thinking these would be mockups for something in metal, but foam core is fine and a "dead" material that will help insulate. The Porsche AC tubes then plugged right in to the new vents.
Reach out if I can help, and if I can do it (my first AC work ever), anyone can!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1576632284.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1576632322.jpg

Steve.....this is what gets shipped to you from Griffiths!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1576632615.jpg

Paul, thanks for your reply. I will order the parts from Griffiths by Friday. Seems like a doable project. Luckily I have a heated workshop so I can do it when it really gets cold. I did pressure wash inside the wheel wells so the dirt there will be minimal. I may start with the hoses because they seem to be the worst part of the job. Again, thanks for the information. Steve

I keep wondering if a vent couldn’t be incorporated in the space that the ashtray occupies as most never use it anymore. Perhaps a 3D printed part with space for an AC vent installation (sized like Griff’s). The radio delete AC plate does look like it would work nicely as well.

The Dorman vent I ordered (photo above) fits the ashtray spot exactly, and is almost unnoticeable there. It is something I've thought about but I never used my radio. I just ordered a kit to hook my iPhone straight into the ADS amp under the seat for sound if I need it.

That’s a different thread. But instead get a Bluetooth adapter and hook that to the inputs of your amp. Best of both worlds. If you shop around some of the Bluetooth adapters provide easy, automatic pairing and very good audio quality.

late to the party but wanted to say thanks for the tip on the Audi vent. Just what i was looking for for my 66