Dan, I built the engine dolly using baltic birch I had left over from another project. I wanted it big enough to support both the engine and trans. I added layers of baltic birch on the sides using wood glue and wood screws. You can make it taller depending on the casters and jack your using. The balance point for the motor/trans is just behind the exhaust crossover tube slightly behind the jack pad. I used left over blocks to shim areas between the dolly and engine to ensure the engine was supported on the dolly.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1571690946.jpghttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1571690466.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1571690466.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1571690466.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1571690466.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1571690466.jpg

One last pic to show engine and trans on dolly.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1571691854.jpg

repair the case defect with JB weld, external easier in the car, unless you put engine on a stand after the drop. The internal (opposite side) needs to have the cooler pulled. I read the cooler rarely leaks but the case "defect" is another issue.

I had difficulty getting mine to work on the external one, hoping I got it after I pulled the engine where I could prevent the JB weld from coming off the case.

Do not attemp the RSR seals without pulling the engine!

If you have and older engine, and you think the cooler is leaking, it's likely the defect.

Engine drop..........
 

Dan,

I saw this thread on the day you posted it and refrained from making any comments or suggestions because for the kind of work you are planning to do, while a partial drop has been done by some people it is not as convenient when you have the motor sitting on an engine stand.

Now that you have come to realize to do a full engine drop, you will have more fun doing this job. This is a more efficient and better way to accomplish your goals. While it is not for everyone, I test run the motor before installing the engine. Why? With the motor installed on an engine test stand, you have better access to the engine parts. Fuel and vacuum tests are easy to do and fix if needed. It is not how hard you work but how smart you did the job.

Tony

Thanks so much everyone - I have been working long hours and returning to this thread for catch-ups now.
Huge thanks to Brian911T who sent me over his checklist and also the plans above for the dolly. And thank s to everyone else who has contributed. I definitely have the confidence now for a full drop with all your help and am excited to go this route. My biggest challenge is that my garage double as my photography studio so doing a full drop for a few weeks is not practical. So I am now looking for a garage to rent so that I can work in this over the winter months.

Thanks to you all and keep the suggestions coming! This info has been invaluable for me and is very gratefully received!

Cheers!!
dK

For my dolly I bought a $15 harbor freight furniture dolly and gave it a lift kit so my jack would fit under it. I've used it three times now.

Fuel Lines for SC
 

:)

I can help with your fuel lines both for the Chassis and CIS on the motor.

E-85 Rated and considered factory level or higher by most who know my products.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1572189904.jpg

Please email me as my pm box is almost always full.

Len.Cummings at verizon.net

:)

Thanks Len! Email sent. :)