Oh yes - I am super happy with it. The model for our cars is the B5000SLX (the EXT is too long, the 3500 too short). Raises the car so that the bottom of the rear reflector is 29" from the floor. I need another 3" to get the engine out with the rear bumper removed so my choices are:

• Drop at 29" and remove CIS while engine is below car to have room to then pul engine and trans out from under the car

or

• Add 4" of height by screwing together 2 2"x8"s and playing this eon the Quick jack with the jack blocks then on top of those.

I am very happy with it. You can see the car going up and down for the first time on my instagram @79.outlaw and I will be doing a video detailing the jacking points and my experience with it over on my YouTube channel soon: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UChD0eomlbxseKJWED3NwdEA

Just use 1 4x4. Should do it.
You should see the dangerous mess of jacks, jack stands and blocks of wood I used to drop my BMW engine! You've got it e a s y!!! Thanks.

I've helped rebuild an old Harley Chopper in a living room (who hasn't), but dropping a flat six boggles my mind.

No need to run the tank empty; just jam a pencil in the fuel line. Or buy a fuel line clamp.

Get a bag of assorted balloons; to put over the rest of the lines you disconnect.

Use a carwash power washer to clean the bottom of the engine and tranny. Should have already done this to help narrow down where the leaks are coming from?

When you drain the oil, it comes out fast! Use a large open oil pan; not one of those used to cart off the old oil. The hole is too small for the flood. Don't ask. I'd drain the oil outside and then push the car in?

Dropping parts on enamel sinks and tubs chips the enamel.

I keep an old digital point&shoot camera in the garage. Projects drag on longer than we expect and images help the memory.

Plastic zip-lock bags and small note-pad to keep things sorted.

I apologize if some or all of this is too obvious.

Best of luck and have fun!

seal the weak spot on the oil tube casing according to tech bulletin, at outside and inside. JB weld will do the job

These may seem obvious but I didn't;t know any of it and it's really helpful! Thanks Michael!!

Apologies for the disaster of a garage in this photo.

This is my third drop. I got the car to this point by myself in an hour and a half. First drop took me days as I double / triple / quadruple checked everything.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1573061780.jpg

I had my engine dolly already made. It's a furniture dolly I lifted a little so my large jack can slip under it.

2nd small jack under the car is used under the trans to get the fore/aft angle right as you drop/lift.

That big truck jack under the left rear wheel I used to lift the car temporarily high enough to slide the motor out without taking off the rear bumper. IIRC just re-installing the bumper the first time was over an hour job.

By all means take your time and be meticulous, but it's not hard work. I'm not a great wrench and I can do it. Biggest hurdle is mental, dropping an engine out of a car seems like a big deal, but on 911s it's so easy.

Other tips that may not be obvious:

• Make sure you undo the non-adjustment side of the shift coupler. The grub screw side, not the clamp side. Will save you the headache of resetting it later.
• put ziploc bags over the CV joints when you unbolt them. That will both keep them clean and keep you clean. Some people tie them up and out of the way, I don't bother.