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consider the following...
you turn the adjustment screw CW and reach the resistance spot where the stem gap is closed. You then turn CW the NUT all the way BUT encounter resistance that ends in turning BOTH the adjusting screw and the nut together CW. (ideally both should move on their own) Now, the adjusting screw moved further to the right CW and the closed gap spot has been altered. Questions: 1. What is the resulting effect of this move to the right?....2. What needs to be done to go back to the closed gap spot and the nut fully locked? 3. Can you lift the car on one side and remove the valve covers on that side and avoid draining all the oil? Thanks |
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cycling has-been
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Jersey Shore
Posts: 7,238
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#3 - yes - you might even be able to jack both sides at the same time without losing oil. I did that with my 85.
Bill K
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73 911T MFI, 76 912E, 77 Turbo Carrera |
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: MYR S.C.
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I have let the oil run a little lower when I need to pull valve covers, IE, don't fill it then remove the covers. even not doing that I don't think much oil has come out, maybe a cup or 2.
use a closed end wrench and a screwdriver. hold the adjuster with screwdriver WHILE turning the nut. you may need to put a tad of resistance in the opposite direction on the screwdriver. a little tip. I never make big adjustments as in I don't go all the way tight or loosen it up. here is why. once you get close to being correct you will make small adjustments. getting to that point after making a big adjustment just adds time. also, if done correctly last time you should not need to make much adjustment, one other thing, use the slot in the adjuster as a guide for how much you adjust it. if it is a tad too tight, turn the adjust a small amount noting how much your turned it,. one more one other thing: never loosen the nut all the way. if the gap is too tight: as you loosen the nut turn the adjuster at the SAME time noting how much it moved. then hold the adjuster and tighten the nut. if you need to tighten the gap: hold the adjuster and loosen the nut JUST a little, then as you tighten the nut, TURN the adjuster with it a small amount. you will get a feel for how lose it needs to be to do this. if the feeler gauge can go in, it NOT too tight. you want a snug fit for consistent adjustments.
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valve adjustment
Thanks guys...
See question #1...The spot for 0 gap is reached when there is no rocker movement...BUT you can turn the adjusting screw further CW...SO, what happens then? is the gap is still closed? does anything else is affected? |
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have to account for the screw turning. Open the gap more than needed. Tighten it all down check gap. repeat as necessary.
No need to drain oil. just jack one side up. Oil goes to the other side. Chris |
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valve adjustment
how difficult it is to move the crank with the plugs in?
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Uncertifiable!!!
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Valve Adjustment Confirmation Trick
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I believe you are starting to compress the valve spring.
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81 Targa, Bamboo Beige, 3.2 SS |
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New-ish 911SC Targa Owner
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and possibly opening the valve slightly if you are at 0 gap and then turn cw beyond that.
Valves that are too tight stick open slightly and exhaust gas slowly burns away the valve and seat. Valves that are too loose are just a little noisy but don't burn. Many cam manufacturers recommend larger gaps be used with their performance camshafts. Noisy but safe.
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'83 Targa 300k w/ freshened 3.0 with 930/52 case# 6770540 ARP and Raceware hardware - AEM Infinity 506, Triumph T595 ITBs, B&B headers, Dynomax muff, Fidanza FW, Alum PP-203whp |
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My 87 carrera has presently a full fresh oil load. I intend to redo my valve adjustment and lifting one side of the car one at the time to remove the valve covers one at the time and avoid an oil spill.
However, My S hose connecting the oil tank to the engine has the OIL INLET CHECK VALVE from Rothport. With that in mind, will lifting the car on the passenger side will continue to have the oil be flowing to the engine? |
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