Can the sliding seat rails be separated while installed. At a loss for bolt removal..
 

I need to find out how to get at the two drivers side front bolts. I tried cutting an M6 key, no joy.. only guess is that bottom and top sliding rails came apart to get at it.. am I missing something?

The only thing that seams to be an issue with my fantastic running 86 is that the drivers side seat support rails were cut and re welded about 4-5” aft. No clue if it was the PO or PPO or PPPO... And it’s ever so slightly not square, just a mm or two to add to bolt frustration. Not really and issue, unless you want to take the seat out....

I missed it on my inspection and I don’t really mind it as I’m tall, except I have no idea how the PO got the Steve Wong chip in the DME as it’s placed more rearward. What sorcery did he use to get at it.

I’m thinking the bottom and top rail were spilt and slid off. Then the bolts taken out...

Pax seats stock and clean like rest of car. I’m debating at some point having new support rails put back to stock as I’d fit both ways. But that’s above my wrenching abilities....

Thx in advance.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1574082800.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1574082800.jpg

Did you try sliding the seat all the way to the back?

Yes.... that is all the way back. See my issue..

Like I said the pax one is fine, except a stubborn bolt. Full forward, take out back, slide back, take out front.

This is different due to the mod.

Seized bolt.
 

https://www.google.com/search?sourceid=navclient&aq=&oq=seized+bolts&ie=U TF-8&rlz=1T4GUEA_enUS570US570&q=seized+bolts&gs_l=hp. ..0l4j0i22i30.0.0.0.6605...........0.pjD3MP_1qRE#s pf=1574087314693
^^^^^
This link & patience might get you by.

Best,

Gerry

if you take out both on the easy side there shouldnt be anything stopping it on the hard side and itll move all the way. Right?

a ball-headed allen wrench on an 1/4" socket might just do the trick, especially if you were able to break them free with your shortened L wrench

I can’t get any turn on the shortened wrench. It’s crazy. The others came off fine so being stuck isn’t the issue. It’s trying to get anything in.

That’s why I think the seat tracks were somehow separated, both lower fixed one and upper slide one. That way allowing you to come in at it from the top unobstructed.

And finally the track put back on

Is there anything blocking the seat from sliding back farther? Maybe a bolt (or bolts) in the slider track, or even debris keeping it from fully extending? Or is the seat physically being obstructed by something? Maybe try raising (or lowering?) the seat to the maximum height to see if it clears?

I did that. But I’ll look hard again fat it. Problem is the seat power is out ( hense me getting in there ). I haven’t found out if where the stops are that.. stops it. Need more light. You bring up a good point.

One possible option (if you have room... kind of hard to tell from the pictures) is to find a hole (or drill a hole) from the top side of the slider to fit an allen wrench down through. If you don't have enough room at the front of the bracket with the seat in place, try finding a hole in the slider somewhere in the middle, slide the seat forward until the hole aligns with the bolt.

The holes are there. There in just like a stock setup. There stock bottom plates too.. it’s just how he got them back in and tightened boggles me..

Yes I tried contacting him.. natta.

Hard to tell from the pictures, but maybe if you bend the hex to be at a 45 instead of a 90 degree angle you may be able to get it to turn.

On my 1985 getting to the bolts is near impossible if the seats are lowered with the electrical motors. I just raise the seats to the maximum with the switches, and it is easy to get in there. If you don't have electric seats, it will be a challenge.

My electric seat fuse popped twice since I've been messing about. I know you can override the motor with one of the tool kits hex. Have to deal with a short now.

How does raising the seat motors clear access to the top of the bolt when it’s the top part of the rail that’s blocking the bolt?

you have mechanical sliders for moving the seat forward and backward correct.

its been a while since I had mine out, but one side can get "out of alignment" from the other if I remember correctly. that is, if one side is unbolted and you move the seat forward, the sides are not aligned,
try unbolting one side and then moving the seat. could be that the other side is limiting how far the seat can move.
just a thought.

I like it. There’s definitely a n alignment issue as the left seat seems to be 1/4” out. I didn’t realize the tracks can be off. That’s good as I was concerned the re welding of the seat support rails were out. Then again, the PO had to have this seat off. Thx

Where are you located? Maybe there's a second set of Pelican eyes nearby that could take a look... or have another car to look at to compare differences?

Toronto sir!

get yourself something like this

https://shop.snapon.com/product/Ball-Hex-Standard%2C-mm%2C-Chrome-(1%2F4%22)/8-pc-Combination-Drive-Metric-Ball-Hex-Bit-Socket-Set-(3-10-mm)/208EFTABMY

Something is preventing that slider from going back all the way. Solve that puzzle and you will have access to the bolt. Seen this before with race car seats and there is always a reason, just need to find it.