Where should I cut my replacement quarter panels?

[rennch]

I have a pair of replacement quarter panels for my blasphemy build, and I’m trying to decide where to cut them.

The factory panels have been cut this way:



Here’s the quarter just sitting on it:



It’s the entire quarter, but I’m hesitant to cut out the entire lock panel and window. I have a notion of keeping as much factory metal as possible.

That said... I’m adding SC flares, and shaving the rain gutters, so there’s going to be a bunch of welding anyway:



I’m inclined to scribe it under the window and inside the lock panel and keep as much factory metal as possible. Your thoughts?






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[rennch]

Bump. Anyone?

[john walker's workshop]

Has the rear wheelbase been extended or is the quarter up too far?

[75 911s]

In my opinion, you should get an SC quarter. Is that a n/b quarter that you are then going to add an SC flare to?

Once you get the correct quarter, you separate it via the spot welds on the B pillar. The decklid area is already gone. You cut it at the rocker where the new panel fits.

Do you really want filler on a brand new quarter after you weld on SC flares? It makes no sense when you are already putting on a brand new quarter panel. You're going to do twice the work and have twice the filler.

Your objective to save as much metal from the original car makes no sense in this build. It's running a subie right? It's been completely raced out and modded everywhere. Why worry about a few inches of metal from the old rear quarter?

The drip rail delete has to be considered in all this. I would maybe line it up and mark it (the clean quarter after you removed the old remnants of the original quarter.) Once, it's marked I would use HD tin snips to cut the rail off. Any kind of cutting and welding is going to warp the roof so you have to be uber careful. I might even go so far as to source a CF roof, I've seen one out there, I don't think it has rails. Because the 50 hours of cutting and grinding that rail off is going to be hell. It's double skins rolled over each other. Reach out to Jimtweet regarding his rail delete. He's super good at metal work and it seemed like he said it was a 10/10 difficulty level. If you are keeping a half cage, run a full cf top with rail delete already built in. Smooth, light and no filler.

[Cory M]

We just removed some full SC quarters from a car that was hit in the front. It was all done at the spot welds including removing the jamb. Doing it at the factory seams is the best way, doing a big butt weld at that front edge is likely to warp the panel and create more work to get it straight. You can probably trim around the existing quarter window. Looks like you've got a plan but if you'd rather start with some SC quarters and save a bunch of work aligning and welding flares let me know.

[jpnovak]

I agree with Cory. separate at the factory seams by drilling spotwelds. Then replace the entire panel. And use SC flares. I would not put a seam down the middle of a new quarter for flares when you can get a complete quarter with flares.

I have deleted drip rails before and it really sucked. Think twice here or have a good metal guy.

IF you decide to keep The drip rail it can can be separated by carefully grinding off the top edge of the folded seam and then separating with a panel knife. To reinstall get a door seam tool for your air-hammer (chisel) and back with a metalwork dolley. Should fold over quickly and easily.

And take some measurements about that rear wheel position. Makes sure the panel matches modifications.

[JSA993]

I did the same thing with mine, drilling out the spot welds to save original sheet metal and aid in proper alignement. However, it was very painful to cut new quarter panels....even though I went with the ST flares. Note the cut on the C-pillar..as high as we could go and still reach it from the inside for rust prevention/sealing.

[ed317]

Hi, I'm Cory's dad, we have great quarters and I also have a full set of NEW TURBO FLARES that I ordered and do not need, I use SV auto body in ElCajon. Talk to Sigi, He has about 8 Porsches in his shop right now. He has attached full quarters for me and also partials depending on what the car needed.
SV auto body
619-292-5297

[3rd_gear_Ted]

I used Volvo/BMW/MBZ panel bonding resin for my turbo flare install.
Today's metal bonding products make welding just for purists.

[rennch]

Originally Posted by JSA993

I did the same thing with mine, drilling out the spot welds to save original sheet metal and aid in proper alignement. However, it was very painful to cut new quarter panels....even though I went with the ST flares. Note the cut on the C-pillar..as high as we could go and still reach it from the inside for rust prevention/sealing.

Did you cut under the window?


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[rennch]

Originally Posted by john walker's workshop

Has the rear wheelbase been extended or is the quarter up too far?

It can’t sit where it belongs because it’s sitting on top.


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[rennch]

Originally Posted by 75 911s

In my opinion, you should get an SC quarter. Is that a n/b quarter that you are then going to add an SC flare to?

Once you get the correct quarter, you separate it via the spot welds on the B pillar. The decklid area is already gone. You cut it at the rocker where the new panel fits.

Do you really want filler on a brand new quarter after you weld on SC flares? It makes no sense when you are already putting on a brand new quarter panel. You're going to do twice the work and have twice the filler.

Your objective to save as much metal from the original car makes no sense in this build. It's running a subie right? It's been completely raced out and modded everywhere. Why worry about a few inches of metal from the old rear quarter?

The drip rail delete has to be considered in all this. I would maybe line it up and mark it (the clean quarter after you removed the old remnants of the original quarter.) Once, it's marked I would use HD tin snips to cut the rail off. Any kind of cutting and welding is going to warp the roof so you have to be uber careful. I might even go so far as to source a CF roof, I've seen one out there, I don't think it has rails. Because the 50 hours of cutting and grinding that rail off is going to be hell. It's double skins rolled over each other. Reach out to Jimtweet regarding his rail delete. He's super good at metal work and it seemed like he said it was a 10/10 difficulty level. If you are keeping a half cage, run a full cf top with rail delete already built in. Smooth, light and no filler.

I can’t really replace them since they’ve already been sent, so I’m stuck installing the stock quarters and modifying from there. Thanks for the intel though...I think you’re right.




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[JSA993]

I did not cut under the window. The only alterations to the full quarter was removal of the door jamb plate and the B and C-pillar cut.

Jeff