Clutch slave cylinder install

[steely]

I have a read a bunch of threads on how much fun is involved with replacing the slave cylinder w/o dropping the engine.

I see where you may have to compress the fork rod in order to get the slave flange to go over the mounting bolts.

Can I do this to a new slave cylinder pre-compress the rod before it has some ATE/hydraulic fluid in it? Will it come back to haunt me when I go to bleed her? She is set up for the 158 mm extension from flange to center of clevis hole.

Thanks for any advice.

[ganun]

Just a bit of muscle, but be sure to put a dab of grease at the tip of the pushrod.
Bleeding is no prob.

[ganun]

Clevis, 158 mm.... that refers to the master cyl. I thought you are replacing the slave.

[steely]

ganun - yessir - yeah you're right - i realized what I posted afterward when I was running an errand later on.

The 158 mm is for the master - i am doing both M & S - but my post/question was wrt the slave. Doing too many things at once on a one day weekend.

Thanks

on edit: Slave is out - easier than expected (but taking off is always easy) :-)

[ganun]

Yep, the slave is muscle and swearing to install, the master is adjustment and finess...go figure.

[KTL]

Yep just have to lean on the slave a bit while you have a nut handy to partly secure it. Once you get one nut on there, you're home free to wiggle the slave home and get nut #2 on there. Just make sure you don't miss with the pushrod falling into the cup/hole in the release fork.

Recommend bleeding with the slave not up there on the trans. Tight confines up there and very easy to open the bleeder too far, allowing fluid to drip all over the top of trans. Whatever you do, do NOT push the pedal with the slave not in place on the trans. Pedal force will blow the pushrod right out of the slave.

[steely]

Thanks Kevin - I did see yours and others warnings about bleeding and shooting the rod out in other threads.
I picked up a vacuum bleeder for this. May try to lower rear/raise front to get the slave nipple 'up' - hoping I won't have to with the vacuum bleeder.

This was part of my question - if I bleed before I install up there or top of transmission, would it be harder to compress the rod? Would it be easier to push the rod in before the bleed (before it is loaded with fluid), and then how successful would I be with the vac bleeder (as opposed to pressure or gravity bleed)? I know I am fighting a spring already, but with fluid in it I thought compressing the rod/fluid would be a challenge.
Just back from work - hope to have time tomorrow.

Thanks

[KTL]

Dan,

No worries about bleeding the slave before putting it up on the trans. It's actually not too hard to push the rod in. A bit easier than pushing a brake piston back in. Just lean on it with a decent amount of force and patiently wait for it to let the slave go on the trans studs. Then quickly spin a regular M8 nut (no need to use a lock nut) on the stud.

Not sure how successful the vac bleeder will be. I've always used the (positive) pressure bleeder.

[wrinkledpants]

Not too sure what people mean by having problems bleeding it because of a tight area. Maybe I'm used to having my arms elbows deep into something and doing it by feel, but I had no problems replacing the slave without dropping the motor. I installed it without fluid as it was much easier to get it on the studs. I cocked it on the studs a bit so it was oriented in an upwards direction, and then bleed it that way with a Motive bleeder. You just need a long piece of bleeding hose to go from the bleeder down to whatever container you have. Then, just snug up the nuts and you're good to go. The hardest part was getting the shaft seated correctly in the shifter fork. If your crafty, you just use a few spare fingers to guide it into the shifter fork.

[steely]

I just wanted to post some thanks.

I had success just bleeding the poop out of the units, although it took me a day or 3 due to work etc.

My situation was that I did it all in place w/o dropping the slave.
I also found - fo what it is worth - that the old nipple was indeed clogged with road crap. This was in spite of having a rubber boot cover.
I then removed the old nipple from the original slave cylinder and found that the bleed hole is at a right angle to the nipple and much smaller in diameter. This is in case you wanted visualize WTH was going on inside.

My advice? bleed man bleed - I could actually hear the air fart out of the nipple to a point. I was forced to tun my garage radio down. After that, there were still air bubbles, but my spidey sense couldn't hear those, but I could judge from the drain tube flow.

Thanks Pelican forum - this place has tons of info and help.

[rokemester]

I’ve had the clutch slave sitting on my workbench for a few days and it continues to pee brake fluid from the boot. Is this a problem? I kind of figure this is not a good thing. Leaking with it not being under pressure.

[aston@ultrasw.c]

I know this is a bit over the top - but it works

It's easy with the right tool

[rokemester]

Cool! Very clever!!

[aston@ultrasw.c]

Originally Posted by rokemester

Cool! Very clever!!

Thanks.

I've found that bleeding the clutch system to be a bit of a PITA.

Recently I heard that jacking up the left rear, removing the wheel and crawling underneath is part of the problem.

What you want to do is raise the front of the car to prevent air bubbles getting stuck.

I would not have thought a few degrees would have made any difference but there you have it.

And I haven't tried it myself: I thought I would throw it out there for someone else to test the theory.

[rokemester]

Hmmm, makes sense, but a serious pain if you need to jack up your car from the backside for some access. My drivetrain is out of the car. I’m wondering if I should try to bench bleed the clutch slave before installing.

[aston@ultrasw.c]

bench bleeding usually applies to the master

I wouldn't bother, I seem to make enough mess without installing parts full of fluid

[jlex]

true...

[rokemester]

Thanks!!