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loctite on rod bolts
I have ARP rod bolts. going to use the stretch gauge to torque them.
but was curious since torque is not an issue should I or could I not use the thread lube they provide and use Loctite. and which one, 271?
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86 930 94kmiles [_ _] RUNNING:[__] NOT RUNNING: ____77 911S widebody: SOLD88 BMW 325is 200K+ SOLD 03 BMW 330CI 220K:: [_ _] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING:01 suburban 330K:: [_ _] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING:RACE CAR:: sold |
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No loctite, use their lube.
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https://www.instagram.com/johnwalker8704 8009 103rd pl ne Marysville Wa 98270 206 637 4071 |
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ok
thanks
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86 930 94kmiles [_ _] RUNNING:[__] NOT RUNNING: ____77 911S widebody: SOLD88 BMW 325is 200K+ SOLD 03 BMW 330CI 220K:: [_ _] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING:01 suburban 330K:: [_ _] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING:RACE CAR:: sold |
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abides.
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+1, i had to replace one ARP bolt/nut that galled when i assembled it dry (very lightly tightened) for my plastigage check.
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Graham 1984 Carrera Targa |
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FWIW. The lube that comes with the ARP bolts will give you a good stretch vs torque value.
I'm not sure what happened on my last build but. I disassembled my motor after a few thousand miles and about half the rod bolts were not seemingly torqued to the spec. They just did not seem to be very tight. Like maybe 20lbs to break them loose. Others were much tighter. When I re-assembled the motor I used blue lock-tite. I used it generously on the threads and it did take a few more lbs/ft to get the correct stretch. Does anyone have a theory why they would not stay tight with the ARP lube?
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Gordon ___________________________________ '71 911 Coupe 3,0L outlawed #56 PCA Redwood Region, GGR, NASA, Speed SF Trackrash's Garage :: My Garage |
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my thought was if a lube reduces friction to tighten it, it would make it easier to come lose.
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86 930 94kmiles [_ _] RUNNING:[__] NOT RUNNING: ____77 911S widebody: SOLD88 BMW 325is 200K+ SOLD 03 BMW 330CI 220K:: [_ _] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING:01 suburban 330K:: [_ _] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING:RACE CAR:: sold |
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From my understanding, it's the rod bolt stretch that keeps them tight. The ARP special lube keeps the amount of stretch consistent for a given torque value. There are many engine bolts that you can't use a stretch gauge on, so using the lube insures that you have pretty close to the correct amount of stretch just by using a torque wrench. On rod bolts, if you use locktite you for sure would want to use a stretch gauge.
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Quote:
That said, I figured the ARP stuff was different. I am not blaming the ARP stuff, but will use lock-tite on rod bolts from now on, checking the stretch.
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Gordon ___________________________________ '71 911 Coupe 3,0L outlawed #56 PCA Redwood Region, GGR, NASA, Speed SF Trackrash's Garage :: My Garage |
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yes
bought a nice stretch gauge from JEGS, it was their brand. spring seems sufficient and I can remove it and put it back on and get the same readings. not a bad price either. looking forward to using it, just waiting on piston squirters so I can put those in and then put in the head studs. I also bought a nice set f calipers and have measured all the bolts to get their measurement, just in case.
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86 930 94kmiles [_ _] RUNNING:[__] NOT RUNNING: ____77 911S widebody: SOLD88 BMW 325is 200K+ SOLD 03 BMW 330CI 220K:: [_ _] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING:01 suburban 330K:: [_ _] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING:RACE CAR:: sold |
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Quote:
plastic range - The stress range in which a material will not fail when subjected to the action of a force, but will not recover completely so that a permanent deformation results when the force is removed. ARP says that if you get a stretch that is close to the stretch prescribed by them, then you have achieved most all of the clamping force available. I have discussed the following chart with them: https://arp-bolts.com/p/technical.php
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Patrick E. Keefe 78 SC |
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abides.
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FWIW, a few of us have noted that the 9mm ARP bolts require a few extra ft*lbs to reach the stretch specified in their instructions. They suggest 40 ft*lbs, but mine needed about 45 IIRC. (i assembled mine with a beam-type torque wrench and torque adapter while measuring stretch simultaneously with an ARP gauge)
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Graham 1984 Carrera Targa |
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That is a very good idea, to get the before (and hopefully after) bolt lengths.
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Patrick E. Keefe 78 SC |
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I'd heard that Loctite is a no-no on rod bolts, but I'm not an expert.
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Quote:
Wayne in his book (I know), says to use red lock-tite.
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I'm with John Walker. Porsche doesn't use a thread adhesive on rod bolts. A properly stretched rod bolt just isn't going to come loose. Neither ARP nor Raceware advocate using Loctite. I don't know what its lubrication properties are, but they can't be similar to those of the lubricants the bolt manufacturers recommend.
The kep for rod bolts is to have the tension created by the stretch exceed the forces acting on the fastener which are trying to pull the joined parts apart. In this case, you don't want the bolt to stretch some more and let the cap separate, even a tiny bit, from the big end of the rod. With gaps, not only is the oiling messed up, but for an instant as things relax there is no tension on the bolt, which is when the nut can back off. |
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Quote:
Locktite isn't a lube but a thread locker. Thus, what is the suggested torque to be applied to a fastener using thread locker that is equivalent to the specs with ARP or anti-seize lube? Don't think that's in Wayne's book. Sherwood |
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No loctite, only the lube on ARP bolts. BUT, I've found that if you torque to the correct stretch while watching actual bolt torque, it will change if you back it off then retighten to the same torque. Since I started doing that, I've always torqued, then backed off, then retorqued. Once that is done the torque and bolt stretch fall within ARP's guidelines. FWIW, YMMV.
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