911sc oil keeps leaking from thermostat

[marianr79]

Hi this is my first post! So thanks in advance for any quick response, tried the search function but did not bring any thing
I bought a 1983 911sc euro almost 6 month ago. It arrived with a idling issues so I decided to remove CiS and clean/rebuild head. Doing a partial engine drop. At that time the engine had minor oil dripping that came from the triangle of death.



After cleaning and changing breather gasket, green o-ring and new switch+washer I putted back all together and boom #%*%#?! oil leaking again from the same spot so I a dropped the engine down to work more confortable





With engine down, I’ve changed o-ring (brown this time) from the thermostat, rubbers from oil cooler, new oil switch+washer, new washer for the switch adapter, new breather gasket plus a new breather hose. Nothing could go wrong, right???? So I put motor back in.....






Well now it leaks more than ever.



I decided to drop engine again and noticed oil on top of the breather case. Am I missing something, does this happen to someone else?? Please help



Switch and thermostat doesn't seem to be leaking



The cheery on top is that my idle is rough even when it warms up. I suppose I have air on the fuel system, is like is running on 4 cylinders.....

Kind regards
Marian

[DemianM]

Pic even shows you epoxied the oil pressure switch...what a bummer!
Maybe someone more experienced can chime in with suggestions

[proporsche]

Did you put the breather cover gasket the correct way in? Also does the oil press switch have the alu seal prior installation...and the breather hose is new??
Ivan

[boyt911sc]

Marian,

Do you have a picture of your motor showing the backside? Particularly curious to see the throttle body area. Thanks.

Tony

[Flojo]

Originally Posted by marianr79

I decided to drop engine again and noticed oil on top of the breather case. Am I missing something, does this happen to someone else?? Please help

possibilities:
- torqued down to weak (I exclude overtorquing as seal does not show signs on this picture)
- ripped seal during install
- seal mating surfaces not fully clean prior install
- breather cover bent/not straight (*)

(* take it off, clean, place on flat glass, poor oil from top via hose nozzle, observe)

[marianr79]

Originally Posted by proporsche

Did you put the breather cover gasket the correct way in? Also does the oil press switch have the alu seal prior installation...and the breather hose is new??
Ivan

Hi Ivan thanxs for your reply.
Yes, gasket has been placed right sealed with loctite 542, switch has the aluminum washer and no, the hose is not new, in fact I cut the tip half an inch because it was oversized....
Any way if you take a closer look in my photos you will see that oil is on top of the breather beside the nut. so estrange. The hose and the clamp seems to be dry

[marianr79]

Originally Posted by Flojo

possibilities:
- torqued down to weak (I exclude overtorquing as seal does not show signs on this picture)
- ripped seal during install
- seal mating surfaces not fully clean prior install
- breather cover bent/not straight (*)

(* take it off, clean, place on flat glass, poor oil from top via hose nozzle, observe)

Torqued at 8 newton, I will check seal. The cover was sanded over a glass before install l

(* take it off, clean, place on flat glass, poor oil from top via hose nozzle, observe)
Great Idea. Didn’t know I could do that with engine down

[proporsche]

ok ...i would focus on the hose ..what do you think ..was is hard after you cut the end of it?
The nuts you have used on the breather cover are actually not correct it should have a wavy-washer and regular nuts..looking at the gasket it is dry so not the culprit..
how is your engine blow by any oil inside the airbox when you remove the air filter?

[marianr79]

Originally Posted by boyt911sc

Marian,

Do you have a picture of your motor showing the backside? Particularly curious to see the throttle body area. Thanks.

Tony

Yes sure

[marianr79]

Originally Posted by proporsche

ok ...i would focus on the hose ..what do you think ..was is hard after you cut the end of it?
The nuts you have used on the breather cover are actually not correct it should have a wavy-washer and regular nuts..looking at the gasket it is dry so not the culprit..
how is your engine blow by any oil inside the airbox when you remove the air filter?

No, actually was very easily to put, my engine blow its ok, the filter element is dry...

[boyt911sc]

Marian,

Thanks for the pictures. But I like to see the section much higher than the first pic. Or give me a whole view of the rear section of the motor. I will return the favor someday. Something like this pic.

.

Thanks.

Tony

[proporsche]

so..the drip we see on the crossover pipe comes from the top but...did you clean it there is no evidence it is from there..it would have to be 1st next to the thermostat ,then it would drip down..i do not see any of that..what kind of flywheel seal have you used? brown-Victor R. or brown black-the correct ,Elring....?

[marianr79]

Originally Posted by boyt911sc

Marian,

Thanks for the pictures. But I like to see the section much higher than the first pic. Or give me a whole view of the rear section of the motor. I will return the favor someday. Something like this pic.

.

Thanks.

Tony

Sure!

[Flat6pac]

Something that was an embarrassment a few years ago.
Behind the flywheel are three oil gallies with plugs. The plugs after power washing need JB weld on them.
If they leak, before the drip goes down, the airflow off flywheel will push the oil up on to the level of the triangle. Worked me like a rented mule for sometime, downside being it was a G50 car
Bruce

[yelcab1]

My money is on the oversize oil breather hose, and its clamp. There is ball button on the breather housing where the hose fits. You need to get a new, soft, perfect fitting hose, that goes over the ball, and a clamp to tighten it down so it will not leak.

[marianr79]

Originally Posted by Flat6pac

Something that was an embarrassment a few years ago.
Behind the flywheel are three oil gallies with plugs. The plugs after power washing need JB weld on them.
If they leak, before the drip goes down, the airflow off flywheel will push the oil up on to the level of the triangle. Worked me like a rented mule for sometime, downside being it was a G50 car
Bruce

You mean in the transmission or in the block? To see them y need to remove the flywheel?

[marianr79]

Originally Posted by proporsche

so..the drip we see on the crossover pipe comes from the top but...did you clean it there is no evidence it is from there..it would have to be 1st next to the thermostat ,then it would drip down..i do not see any of that..what kind of flywheel seal have you used? brown-Victor R. or brown black-the correct ,Elring....?

Flywheel seal never changed, in fact I didn’t remove the flywheel at all

[faapgar]

I agree with Bruce on the plug.It is on the upper left case half.I would change the rear main anyway.How many total miles if you know?Also just change the breather hose end,That should do it.Fred

[proporsche]

Marian..so much work you did that flywheel seal should have been replaced...
so remove the clutch and flywheel and let see it behind

Ivan

[marianr79]

Originally Posted by faapgar

I agree with Bruce on the plug.It is on the upper left case half.I would change the rear main anyway.How many total miles if you know?Also just change the breather hose end,That should do it.Fred

110.000 on the clock!