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Join Date: Feb 2020
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Dropping the engine and transmission with a Kwiklift?
I've seen a few posts from folks here that own Kwikifts.
Does anyone know if I could drop the engine/transmission with one? Here is a post with a picture: Anyone Recommend a Mid-Rise Scissors Lift? I'm thinking I could back the car up onto the ramp so the tube cross member isn't in the way. |
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Well the Kwiklift should be here Monday or Tuesday so I'll post back on how it goes.
The Kwiklift puts the bottom of the tires 20" off the ground, and I'm currently 18" from the bottom taillight to the ground. So 38" seems enough as I've heard I need 32"? I'm wondering if I might have enough room to clear the rear bumper, can anyone tell me if it's just easier to pull the bumper? Thanks in advance. |
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Following. I have a scissor lift. Lots of info on using jack stands for an engine drop but not much using a lift of some sort.
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Why not go with a quick jack instead of that, about the same lift height and would allow you to service the wheels/brakes. Cost is comparable to. I don't have either but I think you would need additional spacers to drop the engine and not remove the bumper.
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Quote:
I'm buying the Kwiklift used off Craigslist for $750 delivered, which is about half the price of new. At that price point, I prefer the idea that the Kwiklift is just large pieces of metal with no hydraulics. To put it another way, I'm spending a small amount of money and would have low confidence in hydraulics at such a low price point. Wheels and brakes can be serviced on the Kwiklift, there is just an additional step to take wheels off. Based on the jack I'm ordering for the engine, it looks like it will be able to reach the engine while on the Kwiklift with no blocks needed. |
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Transmission jack is ordered:
https://www.harborfreight.com/2000-lbs-low-profile-transmission-jack-60240.html The minimum height is 6 3/4" and the max height is 30 3/4". The Kwiklift ramps have an adjustable length, 3 options: - 13'-3" - 14'-0" - 14'-9" The max area I have to work with in the garage is 16'-9". So if I shorten the ramps to the min (13'-3") could I back the car up on the ramps, drop the engine and tranny and then get them past the back of the ramps? Worst case scenario that I don't have enough length, I'm thinking I could move the ramps slightly out of the garage, drop the engine/tranny and then manually roll the car down, lower ramps and push it back in. Last edited by donbecker1234; 03-29-2020 at 04:21 PM.. |
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![]() ![]() ![]() We have it up on the Kwiklift. Have about a foot and a half to roll it forward to see what our rear clearance is. I think I’ll pull the inter cooler and air box prior to drop, if anyone has a sump plug to fuel distributor measurement handy that would be great. Would be nice to do it without pulling the bumper but not a big deal. The tight dimension is the end of ramps to the end of the garage. I think I have around 3 feet to pull engine and transmission rearward and turn. |
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I have a 4 post lift with which I have removed Ferrari engines, 996 engines, 997 engines. BUT for an older air cool 911 and 914, I prefer to drop the engine on the ground in the driveway, using jackstands and jacks. It is actually easier and quicker that way. The only time you spend on your back is to undo the two gearbox mounts and the clutch cable, starter, and heater boxes. In a couple hours (or one morning) the engine is out on a platform that can roll away to a spot in the garage. Then you can roll the car in the garage, or cover it up until the engine is ready.
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Additional engine clearance..........
Don,
Drive your car backward on your new Kwiklift and leave it in gear, handbrake on and place wheel chucks (sp ?) to keep the car from moving. Rock the car and see how stable the car at this position. The rear end of the car at this position will give you several inches of clearance badly needed. Double check that the car is safe and stable before attempting to start the work. The emergency handbrake must be good and working. Keep us posted. Tony |
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If need be you can use jack pads in the side points and two jacks to gain some clearance. Also as we discussed did you get the bridge for the lift?
That is a huge help with this lift. Good luck https://source4industries.com/products/titan-parking-lift-jack-tray-sdpl-8000-jt?matchtype=&network=g&device=c&adposition=&keyword=&campaign=791537470&adgroup=38008726541&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4s-p9b7H6AIVm4FaBR3SzgFjEAQYAyABEgLXFfD_BwE ![]()
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Quote:
Yes I did get a bridge with the lift. My harbor freight order has been delayed (has the transmission jack) which will give me more time to get my pre-drop checklist together. I also have read a bunch of threads on doing a drop and haven't decided exactly how I plan to hold the engine and transmission to the jack. |
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I have a Kwiklift and like it for doing any work that doesn't need the wheels removed. It's great for general maintenance and working on suspension when it needs to be loaded.
While I haven't tried with the 911, I've found it's quite a challenge to remove the wheels while the car is on the Kwiklift. The jacking points are often obscured by the ramps. |
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Quote:
The idea would be to use the bridge to get the wheel off the ramp, put the support in place, then lower the jack to rest the support on the ramp. |
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I currently have a low profile jack, as well as a transmission jack in transit from Harbor Freight.
As I haven't yet decided on using a furniture dolly or some other apparatus to roll the engine and tranny around on, I thought I'd run the numbers. Conclusion: with the car on the kwiklift, using either jack would require the bumper to be removed. I'm planning to remove the airbox and intercooler for a little additional clearance, I might gain half an inch there. I've eventually planned to create some mounts to lift the rear of the car a bit higher on the ramps to facilitate removing the rear tires, that would likely give me enough room to drop the engine without removing the bumper. |
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Rear bumper removal is pretty straight forward, maybe takes an hour. Removal of the small nuts on the side bellows can be a bit fiddy.
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Quote:
It might be a bit puzzling why I started doing all these numbers. My intent here with the kwiklift and the research/planning is to make dropping the engine and the transmission as low an effort as possible. I'd like to keep my car running/driveable as much as possible, and although I want to do preventative maintenance where possible, I realize that doing 100% of the "while you are there" items won't happen on the first drop. Ideally I'd like to involve my kids more in working on the car, and doing it with the kwiklift is more comfortable for me as opposed to more common setups with jack stands. |
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