It’s probably keeping the motor from working much harder than it needs to, and a premature failure.

I originally put the regulator back in and tan it with the helper spring broken and it was terrible but I thought thats just how it ran. Now that I fixed the helper spring it runs really well.

Good job.

I had a very slow passenger side for years and knew what the issue was but had to bring myself to mess with it...as you did.
Works like new now and should have done it years ago.

Yeah, except my only issue now is the passenger window switches do not work. The drivers side works fine so I checked all three switches on the drivers side and they work fine so the switch is not the issue. When I plug them all in and press down on the passenger side window switch (either from the drivers door or the passenger door) nothing happens. If I take a jumper box and jump the wires to the passenger window it rolls up and down.

Is there something Im missing somewhere?

check that your passenger window switches are wired correctly (especially the wires sending power / ground to the passenger window switch from the harness). Believe another post (on another thread?) showed how these are supposed to be wired up. Since each wire plugs into the swicth separately, they can/do get mixed up.

I followed that schematic (I know the one your referring to) to ensure they were plugged in correctly and I still get nothing.

1. I know the motor works, I rebuilt it, bench tested it and also jumped the wires to the motor once installed int he car and the window goes up and down.

2. I know the switches work because I connected each of the three up to the drivers window and they all raise and lower the window.

3. I believe I have all the wires plugged in correctly. I double checked the schematics and double checked the wires but that could always be a possibility.

I'd go with #3 -- specifically look for continuity between the connections on the driver's side passenger window switch and its counterpart on the passenger's side -- with all the mods your car's been put through, possible that they are no longer attached (which would cause everything to look good on the driver's side where the power/ground are coming IN, but be dead in the passenger door itself)

Thats actually a good idea. I never checked to ensure I had power to the passenger door switch

:) follow the electrons

I check power on the driver side passenger switch and I have power there. I do not have power on the passenger side of the car.

Where donI go now? Is there a fuse or relay between these points?

Do not believe so, believe they're simply connected by a wire -- you could either try to find/trace the existing wire from the driver's door through to the passenger's door or simply pull a new wire to replace -- something as basic as 18 gauge speaker wire or a reporposed extension cord wire should work just fine for this

Where would I pull it from? It ends at the switch but where does the other end start? Is it from the other drivers side-passenger switch?

yes - from the wiring diagram (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads26/Power_Window_Circuit115039290313402021071585854554 .jpg) the passenger windows (and switch on the passenger door side) receive power to raise and lower from the red with white dots and red with black dots wires.

I'd start by checking continuity of these two wires. If you find continuity from door switch to door switch (i.e. the wires aren't cut), then check the ground. If not continuity, you could temporarily run a wire to replicate the red with white dot or red with black dot wires to confirm that replacing these wires will make your passenger door window work.

If/when you confirm these wires are indeed broken/shot, you'll need to fish new wires from your driver's door and into your passenger door -- put some dishwashing soap on the wire before fishing through to make things easier. Make sense?

Got it, Ill let you know how it works out

When I look at the schematics for the drivers side passenger window, it should only on red wire that is doubled up but on my car I show two red wires that are doubled up. Any ideas why? Is this normal?http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1586213406.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1586213406.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1586213406.jpg

Wirring.
 

What does the CKT I sent you show?

Gerry

According to the schematic you sent me, this looks normal then.

So Im not getting power or ground at the passenger side switch on the passenger door. I tried to trace the wires but they look like they run in a bundle under the dash and I cant track where they go to.

I did a continuity check of the red/black, and the red/white and got nothing. Additionally I ran a continuity check to a chassis ground for the brown ground wire and got nothing as well.

Then I ran a 12v wire from the drivers-passenger window switch to the passenger switch and ran a chassis ground to the brown wire and the passenger switch was able to raise and lower the window but nothing worked on the drivers side-passenger switch.

Did I do something wrong?

It looks like you are doing well with a fault tree analysis. It is at this point that I am going to say that your connection from the passenger door to the A-pillar is not right. Perhaps you can take a look at this connector and see if it is making a proper connection(??)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1586218952.jpg


Also: because I am in the passenger side door right now: I see your wiring selection a bit odd:

Where are the green and black wires (that go to your motor)? (I am assuming that you’ve omitted them from the pic...)

And because I have been fighting with wiring a bit, I found that once you’ve been able to determine which wires go where here, it is best to mark them (I like craps, what can I say...)



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1586219223.jpg

At least for *me* .... I am better at numbers than I am remembering colors; so I’ve adopted this for the future. (May be helpful; but everyone’s different).

My green and black wires are actually solid blue and blue/white. They run the the motor

I cant believe it!!! The connector to the body from the door on the passenger side had come loose. I reached in and pushed it back on and now all the windows work perfectlyhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1586223416.jpg

Awesome... Yep..I had the same thing on a different electrical gremlin. Look out for oxidized pins on connectors too.. shine em up and presto!

I am so happy for you! That is fantastic news!!! I am glad you found it.

Sweet! The free and simple fixes are always the best :cool:

YESSSS!!! Great news

Give it a shot of Deoxit or similar switch cleaner to clean it properly.

Can you Edit and Copy the resolution post into the #1 post of this thread?
This will help people in the future

Enjoy your windows....

Connector.
 

Is the pass window feed all window switches as per the CKT I sent you.

Gerry

Jd21476 -- see in the pic above (post 62) that there's an open hole in your door jam below the top door hinge. That hole should contain a pin switch that turns on/off your interior light when your passenger door's open/closed.

Do you have a functional pin switch installed on the driver's side? Reason I ask is that, at least on my '86 targa, the pin switch also triggers a relay in the power window circuit that, if not triggered, can cause your battery to drain. Specifically, the relay's designed to leave the power window circuit active/powered between the time the ignition is turned off and a door is opened.

If the door pin switch isn't working (or isn't there), the relay disabling the window circuit won't trigger and the window circuit will remain energized and pulling just enough of a load from the battery to drain it within a week.

Fortunately, easy to check -- with the ignition off, open the driver's door and see if your power windows still work - if they don't (but do work with ignition on), you're in good shape -- however, if the power windows continue to work with ignition off and door open, something (else) to get working

I'll check it out. I also have power mirrors but for some reason they are disconnected. I cant seem to find the wires within the vehicle but there are wires coming out of the mirrors and the control mechanism in the drivers door is still in place.

How did you get your hand in there? My basketball palming hand wouldn't even come close and I had to use the handle end of a parts washing brush to give it some pressure. (wife wasn't available)

Been having some intermittent pass window issues and have a new switch which I planned to install on the driver's door. Saw this and gave it a try then took a test drive. May have been the real issue as the connector may not have been fully seated after bare metal, disassembly repaint. Never even considered this connector.

Time will tell.