Dreading doing the window motors....
 

So I had a local shop that I know look at the car to see why the windows wont go down. He came back with the conclusion that both window motors are bad. He didn't charge me to check them out but said it would be about 2.5 hours per side plus the motors.

I really want my windows to work but I dont want to shell out that kind of money because it sounds like $500 to $600 just in labor. Is this a job I can tackle at home or am I getting in over my head.

I’m not going to lie to you, the job really sucks: getting those motors out is a real bare.

However: I am going to guess that this car is not a daily driver, and can be down for a bit, because ...well... it’s a 911.

All this said: if your motors are really cooked you are in for an expensive adventure any way you roll it (pun intended).

Here’s my suggestion:

Do it yourself. Taking the door ‘card’ off (for noobs) is about half the battle. Once you get into the “door guts” you will have an appreciation for what it takes to have made these regulators work about 4 decades ago. (Thanks, Brose.....). If you have the 101 book - and a decent multimeter should get you set in the right direction.

I recap removing and getting the motor working right in my little thread that I will be updating again in a moment.

The motors are very reliable so that would be really unsusual for them both to fail at the same time. I would wager that that is not the problem. If you understand basic electric and can use a meter, there is no reason you cant do the check yourself. First step pull the switches see if they have power if so see if they are sending it to the motor when you throw the switches

I took it to a guy that does auto electric and he said everything checked out so it had to be the motors. The car sat for about 3 years prior to my Dad’s passing. He was too sick to drive the car and no one else messed with it.

Before doing anything else, I would still start by checking for power at the window switches per my suggestion on your other thread.

(http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/1056735-power-window-help.html)

Let us know what you find -- also, might be helpful going forward to continue this topic on a single thread.

I am going to second the statement of Jeff: those motors are pretty stout. I had a piece of ...something... stuck in the core-lamina where the copper winding goes, and it was running just reallllllllllllllllll lllllll llllllllllllllllyyyyyyyy slow, but still ran.


Chip at this job slow and steady..... My SC sat for near a decade between starts .... I don’t think that the windows moved during that time either.

Give the motor a good whack with a plastic or rubber mallet while holding the switch down. Chances are good that both of them will start working again. Then cycle it quite a few times to get the corrosion off of the commutator.

You should have seen the look of relief on the customer's face when I'd do that in the service drive (a strategically located fist bump on the door panel). It worked MOST of the time, then send them on their merry way. Yes, we didn't like changing window motors either.

I have replaced a window motor, so I think anyone else who is even mildly mechanically-inclined should be able to do so, too. It's a PITA, but it's not difficult. While you're there, if you have power door locks it might be worth your while to replace the nylon ball-and-socket connector (it's a 50-cent part).

Worked on the passenger window for the nth time yesterday. If you have the tool kit, there's an allen wrench that you can insert in the center of the gear to manually wind the window down. (Thanks to Jlex) If the electrics are good, a little coaxing might do the trick.

If it doesn't work, then you'll have to take out the motor and test it. John Walker had a tip on fixing the motor. Can't seem to find it in my bookmarks but you can check my posts. It's on one of them.

Before taking out the door cards, make sure the switches are working. I am aware that your guy said they're okay. I'd confirm it myself. The wiring diagrams are on numerous threads. Good luck.

I do have 12v to the switch at pin5 with chassis ground and with pin4 ground

Another example of the piss poor documentation of these cars. Been here for 6 years, and never saw even one thread of someone posting photos or video of how to remove the door card or replace the regulator or motor.

I've pulled the complete window motor/regulator from the passenger door to replace the often snapped spring tensioner pin.
It is a pita but doable....there are a few threads on the subject here if you search for them....if you decide to tackle the job I am available for more info.....
BTW, both of my original motors work fine after 37 years...they are robust so check everything electrical first and manipulate the regulator/window support arms some to make sure they are not frozen in place.

Check out both URL's

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tgxDCrLptzA

https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/bob_tindel/911_door_panel_remove.htm

Lash

Here are the rest of the Dean Stewart videos
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCTP2CPryNOdZJAaIH_TE9Lw/videos?view=0&sort=p&flow=grid

First, "both" window motors not working doesn't sound good to me. One not working would be more plausible. If you don't do it yourself, I suggest you require photos of the work being done so you have a record of it for your service file. It's also a guarantee the motors were actually changed. And get the old motors. They're easy to take apart for a look see.

Secondly, it's possible to change window motors without taking the door apart. Am referring to an '80 or similar 911 window config. You've got to have a speaker hole in each door card to access the motors. This route is far easier than taking the door apart but requires working blind (by touch) having a small camera, and knowing how to deal with getting the motor shaft correctly back into the window's gearbox. (Gearbox is NOT removed doing it this way.) In a nutshell, there's a floating ball in the gear box with a through-hole that the end of the motor's shaft needs to enter. If this ball's hole goes out of alignment for any reason when the motor is removed or when the shaft is reentering---and it can because the ball floats---the ball has to be repositioned---and it can be.

I've done window motor changes both ways. If my motor toasted again, I'd speaker hole it without thinking twice.

Advantage to taking door apart is having both motor and gearbox in hand. Gearboxes have gaskets that shrink and pull in allowing the gearbox's grease to escape.

I just cant seem to believe that both motors would be bad. Ive spoken to alot of people who say the motors are robust and prices are crazy. Each motor is about $400-600 so Id be around a grand just in parts alone.

If I have power at the switch, is there anything else downstream from that between the switch and the motor? Something like another fuse or relay or something

you could try applying power directly to one of the motors to see if isolating it out of the circuit lets it work -- could be good first step to try in conjunction with a nice "whack" as referenced above --

So... do it!

I'll find it extremely rare that both window motors are bad........ I've been thru this already. I'm not biting on replacing both.

I wish. I only do repairs where I know what is involved. I am not an explorer, as I don't have a mentor to bail me out, like you did when you learned this stuff. I am still to scared to replace my spark plugs since I can't see the holes and fear I will never get them screwed back in. I work on my other cars with a lot less fear, since there are video how-to's and I know exactly what I am in for.