Wrench diagnosis needed for 3.2

[shawn908]

Hi guys - this should be an easy one. Work on 3.2 engine mount. Replace cab set up with Rennline brushed aluminum- clean up engine bay. Yet I cannot find the tool that should exist identified anywhere on Pelican site or google to purchase. I’m in the middle of replacing the cross bar and the engine mount bracket I purchased does not fit over the AC pulley. So I’m thinking remove the AC pulley and good to go. There must be a pulley wrench designed to align pegs with the two holes so can remove the bolt. Anyone know what that tool is called or where to purchase?

[Flat6pac]

17mm box ranch will remove the bolt
If you can’t break it loose, heat it with a torch
Don’t use the 2 holes in the pulley against the case, use the bolt in the flywheel and a cross bar to hold the crank.
Bruce

[boyt911sc]

Have you tried loosening the bolt with an impact wrench?

Tony

[Geneman]

just put it in gear and use a breaker bar with a 17mm socket.

[ClickClickBoom]

Originally Posted by Geneman

just put it in gear and use a breaker bar with a 17mm socket.

This. Do not heat, unless you want to replace the seal underneath. 5th gear parking brake scary tight and a 2 foot breaker bar, 6 point socket no 12 points.

[gomezoneill]

Use a large pair of channel lock pliers to hold the pulley and a breaker bar with a impact socket to loosen the nut.

[yelcab1]

Seriously gentlemen, where is your impact wrench? Air or battery?

[gomezoneill]

To begin with that photo looks like the crankshaft pulley. If the motor is installed there's no way to get a impact wrench in there. I assumed the motor was installed.

[shawn908]

...delayed OP response.
No impact wrench available.
Motor is in car
Suggestions helpful - once I finish work today will be back in garage using leverage and car in gear w/brake.
The photo loaded sideways (obviously...) not sure why.
Thanks!

[gomezoneill]

Originally Posted by shawn908

...delayed OP response.
No impact wrench available.
Motor is in car
Suggestions helpful - once I finish work today will be back in garage using leverage and car in gear w/brake.
The photo loaded sideways (obviously...) not sure why.
Thanks!

I doubt the brake idea will work too much slack/give in the drive line. You have to lock the crankshaft down somehow. That's why I use the large channel locks. Apply the pliers then turn the pulley until the pliers come in contact with the frame then break the bolt loose with the breaker bar. Install is the reverse of removal.

[911pcars]

Mandatory questions:

- Your description of your task is missing vital and accurate descriptive information. For example. You show a photo of the crank pulley. Yes, it has a belt groove to drive the A/C compressor, but it's a crank pulley. The A/C pulley is on the A/C compressor (not shown).

- What doesn't fit, the Rennline aluminum ?? or the rear engine mount you sourced?

- What happened to the rear mount that came with the engine? Uh, I assume you have an uninstalled engine since you snapped a photo of it without any interfering obstacles.

- Can you post a picture of the interference issues you have? You may have an incorrect rear mount. Reference with a parts manual and compare may provide an answer.

Sherwood

[shawn908]

Ok this is a good start to Monday AM. Sherwood I have more photos which I think address the situation.
1. I stripped out all A/C components except the pulley I now want to remove.
2. The engine mount bracket I purchased does not fit. The photos show the new one is narrower dimensionally - esp on the inside surfaces. The original also has the metal bit sticking up which attaches to a shock type part that attached to the cross bar. See photo of removed setup and the new Rennline cross bar.
3. No the engine is in the car. See the supports. Yes the logic was carefully considered before I removed these parts. Engine did not move a mm when I removed the mount and bracket. Still, I was freaking out when I did this.... worked though.
4. Photo shows socket attached and need to immobilize the pulley/crank from turning - and part of the breaker bar.
Thanks Sherwood - I hope the answers help illuminate the situation. And photos help.
Looking forward to your perspective.
PS did not get a chance to get back to it yesterday by the time the telecon ended I was done.

[shawn908]

photos

[porscheboy1]

Why not just leave the pulley on?

[boyt911sc]

Could you drop the motor a little more to gain access to the crankshaft pulley bolt? Did you loosen the transmission mounts? Rear valance and bumper removed? Thanks.

Tony

[shawn908]

Originally Posted by porscheboy1

Why not just leave the pulley on?

motor mount does not fit around it..

[shawn908]

Originally Posted by boyt911sc

Could you drop the motor a little more to gain access to the crankshaft pulley bolt? Did you loosen the transmission mounts? Rear valance and bumper removed? Thanks.

Tony

I think I have the access I need - maybe the photos compress the space but there is enough room to get to the bolt.
I think the answer is hold the pulley with locking pliers and apply quick torque - as suggested above - holding the pulley is the challenge.

[911pcars]

Originally Posted by shawn908

photos

The mount on the left clearly show a depression to provide more room for the multi-groove pulley.

If you plan to reinstall the AC compressor with the new cross bar, something has to give. If not, replace the existing crank pulley with a single groove pulley. I’m not sure of the difference between early and late crank pulley diameters - affects fan and alternator rotation speed - might be insignificant or .....(someone can chime in here). Alternately, can the existing mount bracket be modified to work with the Rennline bar? If so, ignore the balance of this post.

If the pulley is coming out, prepare the engine to fully access the crank bolt. That means lowering that end sufficiently. No direct experience with this specific scenario, but pay attention to adequate angular leeway at the gearbox mount bar and the shift rod connection/clearance at the rear of the tunnel.

With the rear tires off the ground, there’s no convenient way to counter-hold the crank. You will want/need an impact gun to loosen the crank bolt. Many big box building centers as well as some parts stores offer rental tools - air or electric or purchase. Source the correct crank pulley and impact socket, then go for it. Don’t lose the woodruff key. Not that you’ll R&R the pulley again, but it’s good practice to use anti seize on all/most threaded fasteners and mating parts that want to bond/corrode as one.

If I missed something or made incorrect assumptions, LMK.

S

[Pete H]

That cheater pipe will break the ratchet.

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by 911pcars

The mount on the left clearly show a depression to provide more room for the multi-groove pulley.

If you plan to reinstall the AC compressor with the new cross bar, something has to give. If not, replace the existing crank pulley with a single groove pulley. I’m not sure of the difference between early and late crank pulley diameters - affects fan and alternator rotation speed - might be insignificant or .....(someone can chime in here). Alternately, can the existing mount bracket be modified to work with the Rennline bar? If so, ignore the balance of this post.

If the pulley is coming out, prepare the engine to fully access the crank bolt. That means lowering that end sufficiently. No direct experience with this specific scenario, but pay attention to adequate angular leeway at the gearbox mount bar and the shift rod connection/clearance at the rear of the tunnel.

With the rear tires off the ground, there’s no convenient way to counter-hold the crank. You will want/need an impact gun to loosen the crank bolt. Many big box building centers as well as some parts stores offer rental tools - air or electric or purchase. Source the correct crank pulley and impact socket, then go for it. Don’t lose the woodruff key. Not that you’ll R&R the pulley again, but it’s good practice to use anti seize on all/most threaded fasteners and mating parts that want to bond/corrode as one.

If I missed something or made incorrect assumptions, LMK.

S

Sherwood,

I don’t think the crank pulleys use any sort of woodruff keys on them. As far as I could remember they use a guide pin for proper orientation.

Tony