which one do yall recommend?

https://www.kroonwireharnesses.com/inline-fuse-for-dashboard-illumination-lights-1965-1989


http://carmagic.us/fuse.html

When I started this thread (21 years ago!), I used one like the carmagic. Smaller, lighter.

I used a mini fuse from the FLAPS. Nothing fancy. That being said, I’ve been very satisfied with Kroon products.

5 bucks. ordered!

thanks!

Dash lighting fuse installation
 

I have a 1984 911 Euro targa and I'm trying to add the inline fuses recommended on the forum. On my car, circuit 58a on the light switch has 3 black and blue wires coming off of it. One of these wires is about 3 or 4 inches long and has a white plug connector at its end. On my car this connector is not attached to anything and I cannot find the opposite connector or a loose wire of any kind to attach it to. Before I put everything back together I thought I would ask if anyone here knows where that wire is supposed to go. My car has a metal brace under the light switch so getting that switch in and out is a fight. I'd like to get it right the first time.

Also, the two bulbs that light up the ventilation control box have come out of their sockets and I am having a heck of a time trying to get them back in. There is just not enough room for my hands. Any advice there would also be appreciated.
Thanks.

GeorgeK: Thanks for the Dash Light Fuse tutorial. My 77 911 switch was not accessible as you described, so I removed the switch and installed the fuse as you described. Good video shows how to remove the switch. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MRnE4JYk7Kg

Addendum: I caught some static electricity while I was wearing a wool sweater and stepping out of the car, touched the light switch to turn it on, and blew the bulb powered by a green/white wire that indicates the lights are on. Also burned up the brown ground wires between the speedo, the tach, and the pressure/temp gauge.

So, I have added fuses both for that green/white wire and the black/blue wire. And replaced my once crispy wires. And resolved to replace my metal Rennline light switch with the old rubber kind. And maybe I won't wear wool for a little while.

Static electricity doesn't burn wires. It's high voltage, but very low amperage. Something else cause those wires to burn.

Am I correct in thinking that if you have relays fitted in the headlamp circuit then this negates the need for the fuse? I’m not too clever with electrics, hence the question. Thank you

Ian, no.
2 different circuits.

I got a pretty good jolt, but I agree, it appears to have been a confluence of things. The wiring was already seeing a lot of heat that day, I imagine; I was turning the car on and off a lot because I was running a lot of errands and waiting in line at the emissions testing center (twice!).

The main issue, which I found after I posted, was that the LED bulb in the speedometer on the green and white wire circuit had not been installed perfectly. The bulb's connecting end was sitting on the connector at a weird angle; somehow, the socket had come out of its little hole. Top tip for replacing those little bulbs: be sure to give the wire to the bulb a little "tug" to make sure the bulb socket doesn't come out of the hole. I think my bulb shorted and routed currency to the body of the gauge and the ground wires, which is why they burned.

That makes more sense.

If anyone needs, I can make a few more of these as I ordered all the bits in bulk and have at least enough connectors to make 5 more. Just cover the cost of parts and shipping.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...463bc074_b.jpg

Perfect job, looks like mine so many years ago.

A separate inline fuse is a good solution. Being frugal and expedient, I would attach the instrument panel wire to the protected side of an existing fuse in the box. Say, the signals or headlights.