Throttle Stuck and Have Question on Pedal Cluster
 

My throttle stuck today at about 80mph on my Sunday cruise. Was able to shutdown in time and saved it all. My pants were even clean ;-) The accelerator pedal was stuck down and with some jiggling, it came back up. Removed the carpet on the floorboard, thinking that might contribute to it, didn’t stick anymore and finished the cruise and came home.

Took it apart and what it looks like might be the case is part #17 in the diagram below is VERY loose and probably need the bushing(s) replaced.

1.) I am hoping that I DON’T need to remove the pedal cluster from the car to replace these bushings. Thoughts? I have a video showing the play when I move it but don’t know how to load?

2.) Also - I’ve been told that this pedal cluster is NOT from an 87 Targa - which is what I have. Anyone know if that is the case - what this might be from?

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My clutch adjustment thread has led me to upload a whole bunch of videos to YouTube. It's very easy.

If you have a gmail account, you have a YouTube account.

After you login, there is a "Create" button in the upper right. Click that, then click "Upload a video", then select the video from your computer.

https://studio.youtube.com

Uploaded a video of it moving if this helps.

https://youtu.be/RTJgIGaRObs

I went to check that area on my car, only to realize I re-installed the pedal board last night. :o

I suspect the bushing, part number 21, is what's worn based on that video. I have not rebuilt a pedal cluster though.

Yup.....needs a new bushing. Also needs to be bent back into shape so it hits the stop better.

I had the same thing happen to my '71. Full throttle 65mph at an auto cross.

Did you know that with the front wheels turned full lock and hard on the brakes you can still accelerate in a straight line? Who knew. Turned off the key before plowing into the weeds, luckily. Squared off my front tires though.

At any rate, yes that original plastic bush disintegrated. #18 in your diagram.

Buy the bronze bushing set from our host, and rebuild your pedal cluster. I doubt you can get that throttle pivot off without removing the entire pedal assembly.

I had the exacts same issue with mine. At WOT the lock nut on the ball socket for the link running through the tunnel would shift over and just catch on the clutch arm. There are 2 small plastic bushings (number 18 in the parts diagram you posted above) in the pivot for that arm, which have probably crumbled and are allowing for all that play. They are easy very easy to replace. just pop the 2 ball sockets off and remove the clip at the right end of the pivot shaft and that arm should slide right off. Just clean it up and push the 2 new bushing in and then reassemble.

What part are you referring to that needs to be straightened? Might make more sense when I remove it but would appreciate any guidance. Thanks.

Thanks. Yes, I did go straight. Worse for me was when I turned the key off and locked the wheel then I couldn’t turn like I needed to...Will look a getting the bronze bushings.

Thanks. So don’t need 19-21?

Correct, you don't need 19-21. No. 21 is circled

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So finally got all parts and replaced - pedals work great now. interestingly, the brass bushing ID was too small for the bolt that goes through that (schematic shows something other than bolt but mine had that). Tried to drill out and basically overheated and warped it so just decided to use the OEM plastic ones so I could get it driving again. Will probably be fine for another 20 years would assume. All other items were in great shape. Thanks for the help.

Accelerator
 

Last year I had an 88 that the pedal would hang up
The accelerator arm was hitting the bulkhead. I tried to move some metal to keep it from hitting to no avail.
Wound up Realizing the plastic bushings were gone. Replaced the plastic with brass and problem solved
Bruce

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Weird for me is that the brass bushings didn’t fit at all. Don’t understand why but plastic will work enough and i can let one of my kids figure it out again in 15 years when they get the car (or something like that).

My bushings crumbled also and I ordered the two bushings and the middle rubber piece (didn't see it when I took the current pieces out).

I struggled to put the rubber piece in the middle but finally got it in there and then put the two white pieces on either side...but then sliding that back in onto the pedal board is giving me grief.

Do I need the rubber piece? any tips of reinstallation?

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I just rebuild my cluster a month ago. That rubber piece (item-21) is just the bump stop. Like a fat rubber band on the metal stop in your top picture.
On the shaft are just the 2 flanged plastic pieces that insert from either side. Nothing in between.

Thank you!!!!

The diagram was throwing me off. I had put the rubber piece inside the black lever but that was not right.

With just the bushings, the lever slid in easily!
Getting that c-clip/washer is no easy task if you have large hands like me. Lot of sharp edges nearby also.

If the arm gets bent with worn bushings it can also hit the bulkhead. This happened to me once, so I rebuilt the cluster and shaved back some of the metal from the bulkhead area.

Even just the bushings being cracked/loose can cause it to get stuck. That's what happened to me. Crazy how little clearance they gave for a mechanism like that. :eek:

This same thing happened to me…and almost Sht my pants too.
I was heading back from a C&C in Malibu with my 10 year old son… mashed it coming into Tunnel 2 on Kanan Road and the pedal got stuck….. I was able to shut off the car, pop it into neutral and get over to a safe spot on the side of the road to get it fixed.

If that had happened to me out on a smaller canyon road, or worse yet coming into a tight turn, it would have been a disaster. This situation really made me think….

Anyway, glad you weren’t hurt. This thread should be a sticky on the page so newer owners have awareness of this potential hazard. I wasn’t aware that so many others have had this happen to them as well.

I've had a throttle stick open on me twice, and it certainly gets your attention. On my 911, it was because the throttle and clutch cables were twisted (I had recently replaced the clutch cable) and the clevis on the clutch cable was hitting something. On my SE-R, I had left the positive battery terminal cover on top of the engine by accident and it bounced its way into the throttle mechanism. Oops!

I shifted to neutral, car bounced off the rev limiter twice, turned off the engine and coasted to the shoulder. all in a matter of 5-10 seconds.
thank god I was able to do that. the right lane was actually busy too. can't imagine what i would do if there was no shoulder..

I tend to agree. I would trim back the metal on the bulkhead area, and rebuild the cluster on any early 911.

I realize this is an old post recently brought up again but I will post this for future reference.
If the bushings are ok another cause of this can be the little arm getting bent. this is caused by the gas pedal not reaching the gas pedal stop before the throttle rod hits the throttle stop at the intake. As you mash the throttle the top of the throttle arm bends because the middle cant travel any further as it is restricted at the mid-point by the throttle rod.
Get someone to watch the throttle stop while you fully press the gas pedal. the throttle should not actually hit the stop. This is a pretty easy check every one can do to prevent a pretty scary and dangerous event.

IIRC the pedal board has the stop so if you were driving without it that also could have contributed to torquing the arm.