clutch feel and engagement question

[junkman300SD]

The clutch on my 86 has supposedly been replaced and it engages as a comfortable height without slipping.

Most clutches I've driven have a linear feel. This one comes on suddenly and the spring seems to get stronger just before engaging.

Suppose sitting slightly up hill at a light. In gear, on coming yellow changed, ready to go. Spring pressure unexpectedly heavy - embarrassingly engine killed. OR give incorrect additional throttle and embarrassing, unnecessary revs and clutch slipping.

It isn't like I don't know how to drive a straight shift. I learned on 64 Ford going through the old, since straightened turns downtown Lake Shore Drive. I've adjusted my brain and leg muscles but this car takes more awareness than any others.

Will cable adjustment modify the feel? I've been busy building a shop and am almost ready to wrench.

[Flat6pac]

Make sure the two levers on the bottom of the trans are free to operate. The long one in particular, needs to idle on the vertical shaft. The metal to metal will lock the idling of the vertical and freeze to the shaft. This makes it very hard to engage the clutch
Drop the circlip off the bottom, then the short arm, which is the clutch actuator.
Move long arm forward to release the clutch cable. Now the long arm should be free to come off.
If it’s not free, it’s bound to the vertical shaft. Heat is your friend and so is air and a point chisel.
Pulling down you point chisel the center of the shaft. Adding heat can make it easier
Clean shaft and anti seize, reassemble and set to spec
Bruce

[Matt at Pelican Parts]

I tried to do some digging on this subject and found a few DIY articles that might be of use.
The first one is for clutch adjustment. If you scroll down a bit it covers 77-86 model:
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/101_Projects_Porsche_911/11-Clutch_Adjustment/11-Clutch_Adjustment.htm

For 911s with the late-model 915 transmission, there is a specific factory adjustment procedure that seems to work quite well. With the cable completely disconnected, adjust the small stop bolt attached to the large release lever arm, until you have a clearance of 1.2mm between the stop bolt and the smaller actuating lever arm

Another DIY article i found covers Clutch Cable / Helper Spring Replacement and Adjustment. It seems more geared towards fixing a stiff pedal and long clutch disengagement times, but it still might have some useful information for you to check out. Hope this helps!
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/911_clutch_cable/911_clutch_cable.htm

[yelcab1]

Sometimes you can't get any freeplay on the clutch with a 36 years old car. You just have to deal with it and learn that clutch.

[cabmandone]

I'd do as Bruce suggested but I'll add that if you disconnect the clutch cable make sure you have something keeping the clutch pedal all the way up. I use a strap around the steering wheel down to the pedal. If you don't have the pedal all the way up, it will mess with your adjustment.

[Superman]

These systems in our cars are designed to work beautifully when the parts are in spec and adjustments are correct. Over time, the adjustments become incorrect and the parts become out of spec. Clutches. Window regulators. Sunroofs. Shift linkage. All these systems must be periodically adjusted, and parts replaced.

I once did a clutch using the method of replacing pretty much everything. Replacing the clutch disk release bearing and pressure plate makes a big different. But when you go further and replace the fork, guide tube, clutch cable, etc., then guess what happens. For the next year, everyone who drove that car commented on how beautifully the clutch worked.

[Superman]

Originally Posted by yelcab1

Sometimes you can't get any freeplay on the clutch with a 36 years old car. You just have to deal with it and learn that clutch.

You can if you replace the parts.

Originally Posted by cabmando

I'd do as Bruce suggested but I'll add that if you disconnect the clutch cable make sure you have something keeping the clutch pedal all the way up. I use a strap around the steering wheel down to the pedal. If you don't have the pedal all the way up, it will mess with your adjustment.

I put a piece of wood behind the pedal.

[junkman300SD]

I've been building a shop and am looking forward to wrenching. This car has good bones just needing a little sorting.