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-   -   Replacing Front Strut Inserts (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/1061760-replacing-front-strut-inserts.html)

KMoore68 05-20-2020 05:21 PM

Replacing Front Strut Inserts
 
Hi,

I have a 1977 911 S Targa and I am replacing the front strut inserts. They are Bilstein and I have successfully removed the roll pin.

The issue I am having is that I can't seem to angle the strut tower outside of the fender. It seems that the brake line is impeding it.

Any tips or suggestions?

Thanks,
Kevin

Cory M 05-20-2020 05:34 PM

Unbolt the caliper and zip tie it somewhere safe so the weight isn't tugging on the brake line. Two 19mm bolts.

KMoore68 05-20-2020 05:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cory M (Post 10873583)
Unbolt the caliper and zip tie it somewhere safe so the weight isn't tugging on the brake line. Two 19mm bolts.

Thanks for the tip, I'll try that but the brake line is still hoooked/attached to the strut, I need to unhook it first.

Driven97 05-20-2020 06:16 PM

You should be able to compress the strut by hand. It will go slowly and the gas pressure will push it back out, so you have to move kinda quick. Put a block or something under the ball joint so you can push with both arms but not pull on the brake line.

Solamar 05-20-2020 06:29 PM

Whenever I've tried to get the top of the strut out of the fender without disconnecting to brake lines, I feel like I'm putting too much stress in the lines.

The last time I was in there, I used a stick to partially push the brake pedal (keeps the fluid from draining) and disconnected the brake lines. Soo much easier.

I did follow up with a quick gravity bleed, but no substantial air was in the system.

Arne2 05-20-2020 07:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Solamar (Post 10873643)
Whenever I've tried to get the top of the strut out of the fender without disconnecting to brake lines, I feel like I'm putting too much stress in the lines.

The last time I was in there, I used a stick to partially push the brake pedal (keeps the fluid from draining) and disconnected the brake lines. Soo much easier.

I did follow up with a quick gravity bleed, but no substantial air was in the system.

This.

RWebb 05-20-2020 09:06 PM

might as well replace the rubber brake hoses - they're a maintenance item


BTW, split some rubber hose and use it to protect the fender lip

john walker's workshop 05-21-2020 06:46 AM

Easy to remove the retaining clip from the inner fender tab and push the brake line through the tab. Then you can get the strut out enough to swap the insert. Don't even have to take the wheel off.

KMoore68 05-21-2020 06:47 AM

Thanks for the tips, I ended up disconnecting the brake line and was able to swap out the strut.

creaturecat 05-21-2020 08:32 AM

put masking tape on the fender lips. beforehand.

Flojo 05-21-2020 08:49 AM

??? one is not supposed to have that issue that changing the strut insert would require to open the brake line and needing to bleed it afterwards!

maybe your brake hose was just that one cm too short? aftermarket?

I always manage to get it done by lifting the front so it is free in the air and remove wheels.
to change left insert (driverside), turn steering to the left as much as needed to give the hose some "length" and reduce stress

but in the end that was the reason I changed the hose setup completly.
also easier now to remove the caliper and place aside to change the disc

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1590079728.jpg

john walker's workshop 05-21-2020 09:41 AM

See that flat C clip in the pic? Pull it out and push the metal line through the tab. Won't stress anything. 10 minute insert swap, start to finish.

Pedro '84 Coupe 05-21-2020 12:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by john walker's workshop (Post 10874345)
See that flat C clip in the pic? Pull it out and push the metal line through the tab. Won't stress anything. 10 minute insert swap, start to finish.

This is how I did mine.

KMoore68 05-21-2020 02:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flojo (Post 10874261)
??? one is not supposed to have that issue that changing the strut insert would require to open the brake line and needing to bleed it afterwards!

maybe your brake hose was just that one cm too short? aftermarket?

I always manage to get it done by lifting the front so it is free in the air and remove wheels.
to change left insert (driverside), turn steering to the left as much as needed to give the hose some "length" and reduce stress

but in the end that was the reason I changed the hose setup completly.
also easier now to remove the caliper and place aside to change the disc

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1590079728.jpg

My brake line was more taught than yours and I ended up having to open the brake lines.

I'll try to remove the C-clip on the other side and see if that gives me enough range.

Flojo 05-22-2020 05:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KMoore68

I'll try to remove the C-clip on the other side and see if that gives me enough range.

for sure it will give you more "play" in length to wiggle that

Flojo 05-22-2020 05:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KMoore68 (Post 10874711)
My brake line was more taught than yours and I ended up having to open the brake lines.

I made that up myself. it's not OEM
see the the silver bracket midway fixed with a bolt to the strut?
I now can remove it and the whole brake line is "loose".

Cory M 05-22-2020 05:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KMoore68 (Post 10873597)
Thanks for the tip, I'll try that but the brake line is still hoooked/attached to the strut, I need to unhook it first.

Sorry I'm used to working on cars with raised spindles where the brake line brackets on the strut can be removed easily, sounds like John Walker has the best method.

Liam O 05-23-2020 10:12 AM

Nice job Flo looks great.


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