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Question Replacing trailing arm bushing

A newbie question here... I'm trying to replace the inboard rear trailing arm bushings to install Elephant Racing monoball cartridges and it's looking harder than I was expecting!

I have removed the bushing bolt and I have tried to move the trailing arm backwards to put it in a position where I can replace the bushing without removing the driveshaft. There is an Elephant Racing video where they do that but at second 29 the trailing arm magically moves to where I want it to be: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4bilewM7Zsw

I'm not able to move the trailing arm backwards enough to put it under the transmission mount. Is there any trick to do that? I've thought about using a couple of crowbars but I don't want to be too rough if there is a simpler method...


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Old 06-04-2020, 09:37 PM
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Are your springplates and shocks still attached? If not, you should be able to wiggle the trailing arm out. You can use a crowbar or similar to help you a bit.
Old 06-04-2020, 09:55 PM
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Yes, springplates and shocks are still attached. My understanding is that I could replace the trailing arm bushing without undoing shocks and springplates. Am I wrong?
Old 06-05-2020, 12:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WP0ZZZ View Post
Yes, springplates and shocks are still attached. My understanding is that I could replace the trailing arm bushing without undoing shocks and springplates. Am I wrong?
Yep . . . need to unbolt the shocks and spring plates from arm (mark the settings)

Regards,
Roy T
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Old 06-05-2020, 01:03 PM
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Trailing arm bushing removal........

Quote:
Originally Posted by WP0ZZZ View Post
Yes, springplates and shocks are still attached. My understanding is that I could replace the trailing arm bushing without undoing shocks and springplates. Am I wrong?


Watch the video again and notice how the trailing arm was dangling when Chuck grabbed it to remove the bushing. That trailing arm would be stiff and hard to move around with the spring plate bolted to it. The video was an illustration on how to remove and replace the TA bushings. Some of the critical steps were not mentioned or omitted for the show-and-tell demonstration.

Tony
Old 06-05-2020, 01:13 PM
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Oh, yes, springplates and dampers are definitely unbolted in the video! My bad. Thank you very much guys for your help.
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Old 06-05-2020, 05:07 PM
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WP0ZZZ, great timing on this post. I was just discussing with wareaglescott yesterday that I need to do the same thing. I’m going to be pulling the engine again in the future and was going to do it then. Following this discussion with interest!
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Old 06-05-2020, 08:08 PM
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I almost made the mistake also and ordered the trailing arm bushings thinking...oh that's not too bad...

Then I realized you have to dismantle the entire rear suspension haha.

Which has now turned into an entire suspension refresh project.
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Old 06-06-2020, 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by tirwin View Post
WP0ZZZ, great timing on this post. I was just discussing with wareaglescott yesterday that I need to do the same thing. I’m going to be pulling the engine again in the future and was going to do it then. Following this discussion with interest!
I did mine with the engine out. It was so much easier to access the rear bolts without the transmission in the way. That one is definitely on the "while you're in there" list.
Old 06-06-2020, 08:24 AM
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I replaced the trailing arm bushings recently - disconnected the shocks and removed the spring plate bearing cover but left the spring plate connected to the trailing arm (to preserve alignment settings).

Still not easy, but doable. Used a large C-clamp to compress bushing enough to get it started. I was removing a set of sphericals and going back to stock style bushings.

Did this while drivetrain was out.
Old 06-06-2020, 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by tirwin View Post
WP0ZZZ, great timing on this post. I was just discussing with wareaglescott yesterday that I need to do the same thing. I’m going to be pulling the engine again in the future and was going to do it then. Following this discussion with interest!
Hey Tim,
When I pulled my motor I took the opportunity to replace my bushings, in fact I
replaced both complete trailing arms as I had an almost new set (20k MI) on
hand. With the motor and trans out of the way, it's a piece of cake. Let me know when you do it.
Cheers,
Grant
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Old 06-06-2020, 09:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uwanna View Post
Hey Tim,
When I pulled my motor I took the opportunity to replace my bushings, in fact I
replaced both complete trailing arms as I had an almost new set (20k MI) on
hand. With the motor and trans out of the way, it's a piece of cake. Let me know when you do it.
Cheers,
Grant
Will do! Did you already fix your lifter?
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Old 06-06-2020, 07:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tirwin View Post
WP0ZZZ, great timing on this post. I was just discussing with wareaglescott yesterday that I need to do the same thing. I’m going to be pulling the engine again in the future and was going to do it then. Following this discussion with interest!
With the engine out it's definitely going to be easier. I started working on the left side of my SC and the exhaust on that side is making it harder!

Looks like I'll need to disconnect the brake hoses...
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Old 06-06-2020, 08:07 PM
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Will do! Did you already fix your lifter?
Not yet, have yet to order the valve springs and the P7I spring compressor.
Why are you pulling your motor?

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'68 911 Coupe Orange, '68 911L Soft Window Targa
Old 06-06-2020, 10:44 PM
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