And for context, here is how he rates wear protection.

The Wear Protection reference categories are:

* Over 120,000 psi = FANTASTIC wear protection

* 105,000 to 120,000 psi = INCREDIBLE wear protection

* 90,000 to 105,000 psi = OUTSTANDING wear protection

* 75,000 to 90,000 psi = GOOD wear protection

* 60,000 to 75,000 psi = MODERATE wear protection

* 50,000 to 60,000 psi = UNDESIRABLE LOW wear protection

* Below 50,000 psi = CAUTION – EXTREMELY LOW wear protection

The HIGHER the psi value, the BETTER the Wear Protection.

No idea about moly vs. classic. But it’s not the same oil. I also thought the rat dudes testing methods were pretty discredited. Either way. A lot of people use the M1 here with a lot of success. I’ll stick with moly. In winter I’ll probably switch to their 10w40

Not arguing but what led you to believe his methods were discredited?

It's hard to know what to believe sometimes. Marketing people have gotten really good a muddying the waters on just about any technical topic. Some people think Bob the oil guy is great and others think he's a Pennzoil shill. Anyone that says anything opens themselves up to criticism. Just read this board for 2 minutes. :D

I ran M1 15W50 for a long time and that has all that has ever been used in the last 20 years or so. I just switched to VR1 20W50.

Regardless of what you think of 540RAT, it would be nice to see other viable options in the marketplace. Who knows if the maker of anyone's favorite oil will suddenly decided it's not profitable enough or that some environmental regulation has raised the bar too high.

Regarding 10w60 - no matter which brand - the technical data sheets show a huge viscosity at cold temps, --> even its a 10w oil.
Especialy when driving in NE winters or at cold temps outside I wouldn't choose a 10w60.
At normal use/driving, means not on the track .... as long as the state of your engine is flawlessly and if you change your oil in the suggested intervals you can choose all dino oils from 5w40 over 15w40, 20w50 up to 10w60.
Beside a good ZDDP value I would choose the one with the lowest viscosity at coldstart and enough viscosity when hot. So when cold, all importand parts in the engine get lubricated as fast as possible.

If you refer to Liqui Molys regular oil vs their classic one then the classic one comes with the API SF classicfication. Means also a higher ZDDP value beside other factors.

Please keep in mind, ... if asking oil companies, beside the correct oil "you really need" they recommend on top what lets them make more money.

And .... if you choose Liqui Moly oils ... you should choose the much cheaper Meguin oils (not shure if available in the US) as its "exact" the same product but with a Liquiy Moly branding – as Meguin produces the oil range for LM cause ... Meguin is part of the LM company.

I find this oil report from Blackstone laboratories. If anyone want it to compare.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1603140956.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1603140956.jpg

It's a report from an other thread but here you have the Valvoline VR1

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1603141455.jpg

I hope everyone understands that ZDDP levels are the main point of oil controversy and that the Zinc and Phosphorus levels in both the Motul and VR1 tests shown here are marginal

conventional standard for ZDDP from back in the day are for Z & P ~1100 to 1300ppm

That's for API oil circa 1993 and earlier, SG & previous