Replacing 5 yr old URO oil pressure sensor with new URO oil pressure sensor

[pampadori]

One of the first things I did when i purchased my poorly maintained 1983 911 was replace the oil pressure sensor to get the gauge to work properly. I purchased it from eBay and it was claimed to be a URO brand sensor.

Fast forward 5 years and my gauge is reading 5 bar all the time again. Tested the wire from sensor to gauge and checked out good on continuity.

I emailed URO to inquire on warranty of the sensor i bought on eBay.

They offered to send me a new one free of charge in exchange for write up install-thread for Pelican. Here we are now.

URO told me that the new sensor i would be getting started being sold in 2017 and is made in a different factory with different materials compared to the one i would have bought in 2015. Comparing the two, i can say that is true although I don't know what the actual changes were. it physically looks different:



Considering I only got 5 years service out of the old one, i'm glad to know that they made improvements and changes. This sensor represents the bottom of the budget sensors. I shopped around a bit and was about to pull the trigger on a $70 sensor from Intermotor but URO convinced me to give there revised sensor a try.

Install took about 30 minutes. I had to remove the heat hose and plate on the right side to give me more room. Then undo the flare connections at both the mounting block and the line running down to the chain tensioner. I then struggled getting a wrench onto the banjo post that goes thru the mounting block. Added some "apprentice marks" to the hex head. oops!


Once loosened i could twist the sensor down and better access the hex head with my wrench. You can see the sensor itself might have been leaking some too. I think the crush washers were leaking a bit as well as the powder coat finish had suffered some bubbles under the sensor.

Sensor removed:

Popped it in the vice and removed the mounting block:

New sensor came with new copper crush washer but I had to dig around and find a couple of 10mm washers to replace the two on the bolt that goes thru the mounting block.




So with the sensor installed in the block, and two new crush washers for the banjo thru-bolt in position i screwed the assembly back into the case. Reattach the flared connections and reinstall the heat plate and hose. Job all done!



Started the car and checked for leaks. Might have some very small leaks at the flare line connections but can't tell for sure after 10 minutes running at idle.
Flare fitting leaks usually i just loosen and retighten a few times hoping the two sides mate better and seal more completely. If not, i guess replace the lines to get new virgin flared ends.

Oil pressure gauge is now working and shows 2.5bar at idle with my 15w50 oil on a room temp engine. Crossing my fingers that this one lasts longer than 5 years but if i can think of worse failures to have to deal with.

Thanks for URO for sending me the updated sensor to try out. They're putting in the effort to better their quality and still consistently winning the price wars so I appreciate that.

[OldSpool87]

Did you test the wire (sensor to gauge) by pulling it off the sensor and grounding it looking for gauge to spike or did you run a different test?

[pampadori]

I used a digital multimeter set to continuity and put one lead on the connection that goes to the sensor and the other lead on the input at the back of the oil pressure gauge. That wire runs straight there with no other splits or junctions so its a straight shot. You need fairly long leads to do it that way though.

[Arne2]

I bought a Üro oil pressure sender for my former '84 Carrera in 2014, so also prior to the change in manufacturing. That sender was so poorly machined where the crush washer seats that there was no way to make it seal. Good to hear that improvements have been made.

Realistically, while Üro parts have a poor reputation here on Pelican, the company has come a long way by being responsive to problems and being willing to re-tool when needed. To balance that first bad experience, I've also been happy with several other Üro parts over the years. As an example, their long hood front and rear lenses are really nice driver-quality fit, better than any other non-Bosch that I've seen.

[UROParts]

Great sender installation article Pampadori, guys are going to find this post very helpful!

Pelican offers this URO Parts Oil Pressure Sender here: 911 606 111 01 / 91160611101 (which supersedes to 911 606 111 03 / 91160611103).

[Rodsrsr]

2.5 bar at idle seems a bit high does it not? I was under the impression normal oil pressure should be around 1 bar per 1000 rpms.

[Canada Kev]

Originally Posted by Rodsrsr

2.5 bar at idle seems a bit high does it not? I was under the impression normal oil pressure should be around 1 bar per 1000 rpms.

Cold engine - he said it was room temperature - might be still heavy enough to raise pressure.

[GH85Carrera]

Originally Posted by Rodsrsr

2.5 bar at idle seems a bit high does it not? I was under the impression normal oil pressure should be around 1 bar per 1000 rpms.

That is only for a fully warmed up engine. Stone cold mine sits at 5 bar at idle. That is why it is smart to not run the rpm bast 4,000 RPM until the oil is warm.

After the engine is up to normal temps yep, 1bar x 1000 RPM is perfect.