Elephant install question

[tadd]

Pelican brain trust:
I have the rear elephant spring plates that are adjustable along with the poly-bronze bushings.

The instructions for the poly-bronze clearly state to use shim material and JB Weld to hold the inner race to the spring plate. I have done this for the inner race.

However if I do this to the outer side, I will never be able to remove (separate) the two plates (what makes it adjustable) without serious heat dealing with the JB Weld.

Perhaps use loctite green bearing retainer to hold the poly-bronze race instead?

Thoughts anyone who has dealt with this...

[75 911s]

The race glues to the two different halves of the spring plate.

No glue touches the adjustable portion of the spring plates

no loctite anywhere here either. The race (Fixed as part of the spring plate) rides on a bed of moly within the bronze portion of the bearing. The poly portion cushions to the body/chassis/outer cover(chassis)

The spring plate halves are held together by the cover and also the adjustment bolt. Sorry if overly explanatory, just want to make sure I'm covering all the bases. Good luck!

[shawn908]

Something that helped was I dry fit the components to sort out the assembly/install. Helped when I used the the JB weld. Follow the instructions use the JB weld not superglue or whatever. Good luck.

[tadd]

75:
Thanks for the post.

You show using adhesive to put the race (the cylinder silver bit) onto the spring plate stub (long side of the spring plate tube). You then show the short side (opposite side). It is that race I’m asking about. If you JB weld that race, you will have a bear of a time ever being able to
Disassemble the two spring plate halves.

Hence, I was asking if instead of JB weld, bearing retainer might be a better choice for future disassembly. Whatever is used just has to have enough shear strength to not allow the race to rotate on the spring plate ‘spindle’ as motion is between the race and the Bronze bearing.

[75 911s]

Originally Posted by tadd

75:
Thanks for the post.

You show using adhesive to put the race (the cylinder silver bit) onto the spring plate stub (long side of the spring plate tube). You then show the short side (opposite side). It is that race I’m asking about. If you JB weld that race, you will have a bear of a time ever being able to
Disassemble the two spring plate halves.

Hence, I was asking if instead of JB weld, bearing retainer might be a better choice for future disassembly. Whatever is used just has to have enough shear strength to not allow the race to rotate on the spring plate ‘spindle’ as motion is between the race and the Bronze bearing.

All four races are JB welded onto the spring plate. The flat side of the race is NOT glued to the flat part of the spring plate. Thus the two portions of the spring plate are able to move freely for adjustment.

It's true that you would have a bear of a time trying to separate the two halves later. The glued on outer race would prevent the havles from separating. But let me ask you this. Why would you want to? Perhaps a catastrophic even where the plate was only bent on one part. In that case I would replace the entire spring plate (both halves) There's no maintenance that requires separating the halves.

The race becomes effectively part of the spring plate, that is why it is glued to the surfaces.

The reason ER doesn't make the QC adj. spring plate already have these races on them is because they are universal in a sense that other styles of (less expensive) bushings can be used with the QC spring plate.

Call ER. They are very responsive and will tell you exactly how to install if this isn't clear. I did just read the instructions and it says "Races are glued to the spring plate and the gap filled using JB weld."