engine deck lid/hood

[DeltaBravo]

Hello Pelicans,

I am having an issue with the hood/deck lid of my '88 Cab. It won't stay closed.

I've tried several times in adjusting the latch and afterwards it will shut nice and seem locked. I will pull, shake, rattle and pull to try and simulate driving. If it stays closed, I will go for a drive...at which point it will pop open every time.

Am I on the right track, but missing something in adjusting the locking mechanism? Or is there something wrong/broken with the latch?

Thank you

[pampadori]

Unscrew the spring loaded latch (I think it's just a straight screwdriver head on the decklid itself so that it is longer. That did the trick for mine

[JSV798]

It is a good idea to remove the grille BEFORE you attempt adjustment. When adjusting bear in mind that the cable must be pre-tensioned. First make sure that the handle is fully screwed onto the cable at the door end. At the lock end loosen the cable clamp screw; the lock will then be open; it opens automatically if the cable breaks. Move the lever with the clamp screw to a point where you can see most of the "blade" and tighten the clamp screw. Test. If it fails to open you can reach in through the grille opening and release the lock lever by hand.

It is important to realize that the lock has two open positions: one when the cables has no tension and two when you pull on the handle. This clever design means that if the cable breaks the lock opens, otherwise as you have found there is a problem.

The front hood lock was the same on the early models but has been changed. Presumably it was thought not to be such a good idea to have the hood unlock at speed.

[DeltaBravo]

Originally Posted by JSV798

It is a good idea to remove the grille BEFORE you attempt adjustment. When adjusting bear in mind that the cable must be pre-tensioned. First make sure that the handle is fully screwed onto the cable at the door end. At the lock end loosen the cable clamp screw; the lock will then be open; it opens automatically if the cable breaks. Move the lever with the clamp screw to a point where you can see most of the "blade" and tighten the clamp screw. Test. If it fails to open you can reach in through the grille opening and release the lock lever by hand.

It is important to realize that the lock has two open positions: one when the cables has no tension and two when you pull on the handle. This clever design means that if the cable breaks the lock opens, otherwise as you have found there is a problem.

The front hood lock was the same on the early models but has been changed. Presumably it was thought not to be such a good idea to have the hood unlock at speed.

Thank you. I wasn't aware of the cable tension/broke cable feature. This is good to know.

I will definitely remove the grill and start from scratch. Insure the pull handle/cable end is good then go from there.

great insight,

[DeltaBravo]

Originally Posted by pampadori

Unscrew the spring loaded latch (I think it's just a straight screwdriver head on the decklid itself so that it is longer. That did the trick for mine

Thank you for the response.

I have tried lengthen and shortening...yielding the same result.

[76FJ55]

Hose the latch mech down with some spray lube to make sure everything is moving freely. If the latch is sticking at all, you'll never get it to adjust and hold correctly.

[911pcars]

As mentioned, the latch is designed to release the hood pin under two conditions:

1. By pulling on the hood release cable.
2. When the cable breaks and/or if cable tension is lost.

That indicates the latch provides an open-close-open format.

The proper adjustment is when the latch blade/cable adjustment creates the narrowest hood pin opening.

With the cable stop screw loose, manually move the spring-loaded latch back and forth and observe when the hood pin opening is at its narrowest opening. That’s the optimum position to lock the cable stop lock screw.

Sherwood

[DeltaBravo]

Originally Posted by 911pcars

As mentioned, the latch is designed to release the hood pin under two conditions:

1. By pulling on the hood release cable.
2. When the cable breaks and/or if cable tension is lost.

That indicates the latch provides an open-close-open format.

The proper adjustment is when the latch blade/cable adjustment creates the narrowest hood pin opening.

With the cable stop screw loose, manually move the spring-loaded latch back and forth and observe when the hood pin opening is at its narrowest opening. That’s the optimum position to lock the cable stop lock screw.

Sherwood

Adjusted as describe...will see tomorrow morning when I get up early and go for an early morning rip'um.

thanks to all.

[DeltaBravo]

Well...

I've adjusted the latch to the "sweet" spot and it still pops open while driving.

While in the garage, I will attempt to pull, shake, push down and rock side to side trying to pull or "pop" it open, but it doesn't. It stay locked and secured. And the minute I start driving...POP!

Am I missing another adjustment that may be needed? it's like the latch is attached to my clutch cable or something...

[ian c2]

Try winding the rubber snubbers out 1/4 turn or so

[911pcars]

Originally Posted by DeltaBravo

Well...

I've adjusted the latch to the "sweet" spot and it still pops open while driving.

While in the garage, I will attempt to pull, shake, push down and rock side to side trying to pull or "pop" it open, but it doesn't. It stay locked and secured. And the minute I start driving...POP!

Am I missing another adjustment that may be needed? it's like the latch is attached to my clutch cable or something...

Besides the rubber hood "snubbers", the latch pin should fully engage the latch. Try lengthening the latch pin one turn at a time, then road test. In addition, confirm all hood, lock nuts and latch fasteners are tight.

Sherwood

[Agritters]

Would someone be willing to take a picture of what screw/latch pin

[911pcars]

Originally Posted by Agritters

Would someone be willing to take a picture of what screw/latch pin I should be loosening. My service manual doesn’t have a picture of that and I can’t seem to find it

Sorry about the change in nomenclature. It's the movable stop on the control wire. The wire routes through it. A screw on the stop allows the stop to lock the wire in place.

The position of the stop along the wire determines how far the latch moves to release the vertical hood pin.

An archived Pelican thread has a photo of the latch:
Need help: tips/tricks for front hood latch adjustment (73)

There's more latch adjustment links here:
https://www.google.com/search?q=porsche+911+hood+or+engine+latch+adjustme nt&source=lmns&bih=1258&biw=1811&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiB26293ZLsAhUiI30KHRVND1UQ_AUoAHoECAEQA A

Hope this helps
Sherwood

[JSV798]

What problem are you having with the rear lid?