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Need help: tips/tricks for front hood latch adjustment (73)
I'm sure plenty of others have had ths problem: my front hood latch pops at various times under various conditions.
As it is now, I'm using a loop of nylon strap as a safety catch, which is very secure, but many concerned individuals honk, wave, point, etc. as I drive along with the hood appearing as if it's ready to fly up. I have taken both upper & lower latch pieces all apart, lubed, reassembled, attempted alignment, nudged one way and the other, etc. I've tried everything short of rigging a camera and light inside to watch the latch do its thing... The solution is aggravated by the fact I have to drive the car for a while to create the chassis dynamic to cause the hood to release (most recently a hard left turn). If I could replicate the chassis flex in a static situation, things would be much easier. Suggestions?
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techweenie | techweenie.com Marketing Consultant (expensive!) 1969 coupe hot rod 2016 Tesla Model S dd/parts fetcher |
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Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Sticks of SW Washington
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No real suggestions, except that i have the same problem and have tried all those things too.
The only thing i have found is that the design of the receiver is such that if the release wire breaks, the trunk opens. because of this, it can't be adjusted too loose or too tight to get maximum engagement from the catch. I think i have mine just right, but it still happens every now and then, but the built in safety catch does the trick. I have a targa which probably makes it worse. I have thought about putting on some of the racing hood straps, and being done with the problem. who knows the magic cure? jason
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motors: 73.5 911 T targa - RIP, 2005 Subaru Legacy 2.5i pedals: Ellsworth Truth, Neuvation road bike Paddles: Dagger Ego Wind: Liquid Force kites/Ocean Rodeo Mako board |
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Techweenie-
I've been dealing with this on my 71. Really a pain to keep pulling over to try and get the hood latched. One of the problems I was having is getting the latch (the part that moves across the hole actuated by the cable) to move the full range. It wasn't engaging the pin enough. I figured out that if I put a pin (drill bit, whatever) in the little 1/8" hole to the right of the receiver hole, it would hold the latch closed all the way. Then I could get in there with the pliers and screwdriver to adjust the cable. Now the latch closes better, moving further to the left. After that I adjusted the hood hinges. Where they bolt to the body (not to the hood), they have slotted bolt holes. I raised the back end of the hood slightly, and it seems to have taken some load off the front latch. It still isn't perfect, but it has only popped up once since this repair. Good luck-
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Steve B. 1971 T 2.2 w/Zeniths Gruppe B member 171 Mid 9 Web Site Guy |
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Steve, that's an interesting idea. I haven't worked on the hinges (which are slightly bent from a recent hood pop-up).
I should probably also replace the release wire, which has been nibbled off at the end by a P.O., right now, there's really nothing left to stick through the clamping block... What I can't determine is why, when everything is aligned (plunger centered on the hole, clamp fully extended, pin extended to catch clamp, etc.) it still isn't reliable. :-(
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techweenie | techweenie.com Marketing Consultant (expensive!) 1969 coupe hot rod 2016 Tesla Model S dd/parts fetcher |
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Ronin LB '77 911s 2.7 PMO E 8.5 SSI Monty MSD JPI w x6 |
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My question is on the latch plate. It's the piece that catchs on the hood pin. Mine doesn't pivot. It slides. Is that right? No pivot?
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Gary 71 911T Miss Demeanor / 2013 Audi Q5 Hundeführer / 1995 993 Miss Adventure |
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