I have the same readings: 14.0 without load in idle. 13.7 - 13.9 with load om my 1985. Quite steady during a drive (I have a permanent battery monitor).

As long as it stays below 14.5V I am not worried.


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I've had a digital meter in the cigarette lighter port. Nice little unit that typically shows 13.6ish on startup / idle, then as the car warms up it'll go to 13.8. Even on boost I've not seen it higher.

Being fond of the analogue dials (an age thing), I've wired in a voltmeter. An AFR guage as well, which I've had on the shelf for a couple of years and finally got around to installing this week. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1673181877.jpg

Just got back from an hour long drive down here in the Hill Country. Battery was full this morning and on the highway with lights on was 14.2 very consistent and without lights was 14.4 again consistent. Checked with two plug in digital monitors. Both read same.

I have a spare alternator from my other 911 (written off) that had 65,000 miles on it and am thinking about swapping with this car (with 200,000 miles).

14.4 with no load just seems high...seems we all vary in our findings.

I know if I swap out the readings will be the same...isn't that how it always goes???


Great replies...glad I found this thread.


Erik

I am looking at the Bosch analogue dial...nicely done.

Erik

13.5V-14.5V is the standard range for a lead-acid battery system in all cars. Below that won't hurt anything, but may not recharge your battery quickly or fully. Above that you start to have problems with shortened battery life. Way above that you can fry electronics. right around 14V is as good as you can get.

Your fine at 14.4. I’d leave it. It took me 1/2 a year to get 14.4 constant. That’s with all new grounds and every bit electrical shiny. I wrote a post on it. Search my name.

Have you checked the voltage with a Multi Meter?

Had the same issue, replaced the voltage regulator but it's only a band aid. The car has the original alternator and the slip rings have some life in them but are grooved and I'm anticipating only about 5k before Ill have to get new.

Yes...I did and numbers were the same. Very long story short I have a spare alternator (written off car from an accident with only 65,000 miles on the engine) and I might swap and have this one with 200,000 miles on it rebuilt.

Took out this alternator and the ground wire/cable was pretty worn out. Other major grounds have been replaced.


If everything comes back producing the same outcomes then at least I know, record wise, where I stand.

Had some surging problems and a bad battery...suppose I am a bit over-worried now.

Have a new VR in my shopping cart here at Pelican...feel the same with 200,000 miles on this...


"band aid".

Probably time to rebuild.

Food for thought - get a new (not rebuilt) 90Amp Valeo alternator from Rock Auto for $330:
https://www.********.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=9550352&cc=1262764&pt=2412&jsn=839

The asterisks should say "rock auto", all one word. The Bird doesn't allow outside URLs or apparently competitor names, period.

No core charge, either, so you can keep your old one and get it rebuilt or whatever.

Well, bit the bullet and bought a new alternator (Valeo) and rechecked all grounds.

Installed and took out for a drive - am still at a constant 14.4 with nothing on and 14.2 with headlights on. Very very stable. Idle is 14.4 in traffic and stable.

I will say my lights are incredibly brighter and now I see my shift light is the orange it's supposed to be. :)

I have been back and fourth on buying new and when I pulled the one on the car it was a Bosch/Rebuilt.

So, my readings are pretty much the same although dead stable now and I guess I will live with 14.4 running and 14.2 with all accessories turned on/activated (headlights, heater...took out the A/C).