ASP issue: Anyone Have to Use Longer Hard-Lines- ?
 

I recently upgraded to Elephant Adjustable Spring Plates. Nice piece of kit, but the profile of the swing-arms is a bit different. It looks amazing, but as I went to install the oem hard brake line I encountered a problem, it now needs to go up and over the higher ASP plate and the line is just too short to curve up that high. Has any one with ASP had this issue? I suppose I will be looking for longer steel hard-lines soon at the local auto parts store. I really like the copper line, it's just too damn short.

:)

Most parts stores have a version of the Copper Nickel alloy brake lines that are corrosion resistant and similar to the Cunifer lines Porsche uses.

All vehicles should have these from new. It's a safety issue as the dual hydraulic circuit brake systems were years back.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1602193507.jpg

I should have some on the shelf along with the Metric fittings if a short length is needed.

Len.Cummings at verizon.net.

:)

Len, Thanks for letting me know about this material, good to know and interesting you can make custom lengths, those are tools I do not (yet) own!

Managed to easily buy a suitable length of TWO hard brake lines at a local Auto Zone which @ 3/16" x 12" / 4.8mm x 30.5cm. Because of supply chain issues their selection was very limited 13" would've been perfect but I got them to work.

The other quirky issue is they only had one of each .. one steel and one copper. so I could compare first hand the ease of bending each steel is much more difficult to get right which made the copper easy-peasy.. eventually I will get the proper hard lines in there and I am sure there is a n issue with using 'asymmetrical' material but this is the rear brakes and I am sure the difference won't be felt through the pedal.
As far as quality goes, the copper - nickel is made in Michigan and the steel one is made in Japan.
Just glad none of it was Chinese crap and I am one step closer to getting the system bled.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1602252206.jpg

here you see,
top: the oem brake line (too short)

middle: the Steel brake line a few inches longer (it works!)

bottom: # 12 solid copper wire, which I used to mock -up length and bends needed, very helpful.

(not pictured non-oem longer copper line, also worked well)

I called Chuck @ Elephant and he hasn't encountered of this issue with the ASP,
THAT IS THE ONLY THING THAT WORRIED ME otherwise everything looks good now.

OEM hard brake lines are actually double wall steel, with copper as the braze material to fuse the two layers. The double wall set-up is required for safety reasons. They are then coated (typically) with a layer of zinc for corrosion protection, then polyamide (nylon) as a stone impingement protectant. Be sure what ever you use is up to this standard.

Thanks Lyle O, this is good advice.
Will have a professional put eyes on it when I bring my car in for
c/balance and alignment. I saved the tags from the lines.

:)

Lyle O-

I don't know what 911 model you are referring to, but my early 70's cars do not have the lines you describe.

Len

Turns out one of the lines did not have the right fitting and is leaking fluid.
The threaded nut part was a bit too long, I think, so didn't properly close in on the swaged end
The other one does not exactly fill me with confidence either come to think of it.
Will go back tomorrow a few auto-parts store's with wavering faith..
Fearful of off the shelf shoddy products..especially where my brakes are concerned.

Hoping to find two 13” lengths ( approx.) brake lines with the proper fittings..

Try Poly-Armour brake lines with bubble flare metric.
But they do not manufacture a 13 inch brake line, the closest is 12 inches and the next one is a 20 inch,
The Part numbers are PAE-312 and PAE-320
You can find it at Autozone or Advance Auto parts.
Very good quality and made in America.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1602483607.jpg

Get this in 20" and buy a good double flair tool kit. Cut the 20" line to whatever length you need after shaping. don't forget to put the fitting back on before reflaring... ;)
If you can afford an ASP kit you can afford a good flaring tool.

:)

Absolutely!

You can practice on the short piece that is leftover. It's easy.

Good advice Don & 79 930, just what I was going to say.

Len

:)

So much great information, thanks to all.

While the 12" line worked well enough an extra 1" would be nice..

A mini-tube bender # 25179 has worked well throughout,
looks just like the black Summit racing one except it s red.
Reminds me of my 1/2" & 1" EMT bending days...in miniature.

Quick history of how I came by the ASP kit, is that I bought an entire race suspension years ago, a newish "package deal" with about 50 miles
on all the components. Plans changed, and I was after-the fact-educated on what I really needed and didn't need so will
eventually sell off some HUGE torsion bars and mono-balls but I am keeping the ASP's and some other nice suspension " jewelry"...
I didn't really originally plan on buying ASP, not for my purposes anyway, but I got 'em now ~ !

Double-wall steel tube technology goes back a ways; they are OE for Porsche now, going back at least through the '90s. I haven't cross-sectioned my '87 lines, but expect they should be as I described. Cannot say what they used in the '70s, but I know what they should be now...

Fittings are obv. metric... what is the exact size? If one were to buy a handful of them and tubing to make their own lines... as others have recommended, sage advice btw.

Would a 14inch preassembled brake line work for you ?
Check Belmetric.
Also regarding the fittings those are M10 x 1.0 bubble flare for 3/16" or 4.75mm tubing.

Or you can buy the Poly-Armour brake line and cut it to size, bubble flare it, you do not need to buy an extra fitting.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1605375132.jpg

Thanks donporfi,

Good to know the fitting sizes.
Will go the Belkmetric route for now, 14" should be quite all right, actually easier to manage than the 12" which is limiting..