Stuck gas pedal at WOT

[mziin]

Hi all,

While driving the other day, my gas pedal got stuck at WOT, fun experience . I managed to unstick it by tapping it with my foot, but sadly was able to reproduce it.

I took a look at my pedal cluster (see picture), when I push on the gas pedal the Throttle control link touches the frame (see red arrow), which I think is my problem.

One thing I've noticed is that the piece circle in red (Throttle control rod?) wiggle laterally, and when it's towards the right that's when it hits the frame.
Is the small lateral wiggle expected?
Any recommendation/link on how to solve that?

Separately, I'd love some advice on how to clean the area.

[agfours]

I'd recommend starting with a pedal cluster rebuild if you see significant wiggle - I suspect that the plastic bushings (common wear issue) are toast/cracked/missing which is contributing to the issue. You can get a set of brass bushings on our host for just a few bucks. The job is a bit of a PITA... but, the results are tremendous when everything is working, lubed, etc. Just did the job a couple of weeks ago - there is a tech article which walks you through it on our host site.

Also, regarding the WOT, be sure to check that the cruise control cable (where it enters the stabilizing metal bracket on on the intake) has not separated from the retaining clip. If the sheath and the clip are broken from one another, when on WOT, the sheath of the cable will catch on the retaining clip (which again, is supposed to be one piece) and hold the cable itself from releasing the throttle on the spring actuated throttle body. Ask me how I know...my girlfriend is still terrified to ride along with me.

Also, when you remove the pedal cluster, you'll have plenty of access to the area to do a little vacuum job/wipe down. You'll be cleaning and lubing the entire pedal cluster mechanism, so that will be all spiffy too.

[juanbenae]

did you remove the foot boards?

[mziin]

Originally Posted by agfours

I'd recommend starting with a pedal cluster rebuild if you see significant wiggle - I suspect that the plastic bushings (common wear issue) are toast/cracked/missing which is contributing to the issue. You can get a set of brass bushings on our host for just a few bucks. The job is a bit of a PITA... but, the results are tremendous when everything is working, lubed, etc. Just did the job a couple of weeks ago - there is a tech article which walks you through it on our host site.

Thank you for your response - I was hoping to have a fix without involving a full cluster rebuild (I do want to do that at some point though)... I will be inspecting the bushings to see how they are now.

Originally Posted by agfours

Also, regarding the WOT, be sure to check that the cruise control cable (where it enters the stabilizing metal bracket on on the intake) has not separated from the retaining clip. If the sheath and the clip are broken from one another, when on WOT, the sheath of the cable will catch on the retaining clip (which again, is supposed to be one piece) and hold the cable itself from releasing the throttle on the spring actuated throttle body. Ask me how I know...my girlfriend is still terrified to ride along with me.

This shouldn't be the problem, I removed the cruise control cable and servo earlier this year as I was not using it and it was not functional.

Originally Posted by juanbenae

did you remove the foot boards?

Yes I did remove them to diagnose (they typically are there).

[76FJ55]

I've been exactly where you are, with the WOT sticking throttle. There are two small plastic bushings on the shaft for the throttle link where it pivots in the pedal cluster. You can replace these two bushings with the pedal cluster installed.

[cam14]

Not 100% sure if this is the correct answer for you, but what I'm doing on my project is to replace the ball sockets with snap rigs, your pic shows 3 of them, there are more in the engine bay. And there are bushings that support the throttle rod along the center tunnel. These bushings can get gummy with age. Not sure how difficult it is to replace these but guessing that it should not be too difficult.

HTH

[911 SLANT]

This happen to me a couple of weeks ago. I notice the piece in your picture was also getting caught on body (tunnel).What it was is the pin going threw throttle assembly was bending to right when mashing down at full throttle. I ended up taking it a muffler shop to put a good thick weld on the outside where pin is pressed in from factory. No more problems rubbing and getting stuck on tunnel of car. And yes all my bushings are new.

[911 SLANT]

Here's the piece in the red circle that get loose. Part# 901.423.250.02

[agfours]

Originally Posted by mziin

I was hoping to have a fix without involving a full cluster rebuild (I do want to do that at some point though)... I will be inspecting the bushings to see how they are now.

It is worth the effort to do the work - changed the action of my clutch and accelerator to be like a bolt action rifle. Per another post, there is one small ~10mm bushing that comes with the brass bushing kit that can be replaced in situ, but from memory, I believe that is the bushing for the 915 clutch cable (not the G50 like yours). Even so, you're going to likely have to employ one of your mechanically savvy children with small fingers and a good deal of patience to do it. However, if there is play in the larger lever, the cluster will need to come out, as it requires disassembly to replace.

[Walt Fricke]

Slant's picture shows a common problem. If your throttle pedal stop isn't adjusted properly (or you don't have one), you will overstress this pin and it will come loose. The pedal stop is designed so that when you mash the pedal you get WOT but the force of your leg and foot ends at the stop, and not somewhere along the links back to the throttle butterfly on the engine.

A weld will fix this, but without a throttle stop it will just break again, or the entire bell crank will distort.

I learned about this the usual hard way back when - stuck full open on the track. I made it half a lap using the ignition key as a way to decelerate as needed, but the pin fell out, so no throttle at all.

You can check/replace the bushings while you are at it, but you don't need to pull the full pedal cluster for just this.

[Marc Bixen]

Maybe it has something to do with that silly gas pedal your using? Also on 3.2's a common stuck throttle issue is at the throttle body to AFM boot connection, or a broken cruise control cable housing.. If someone got "artsy" and the lower AFM boot clamp screw is incorrectly positioned, it will cause the throttle to stick. There is a relief in the throttle body casting where the clamp screw is suppose to be located. Pictures coming.

[Marc Bixen]

Image 1 shows the clamp in the correct position




Image 2 shows the clamp in the incorrect (Artsy) position. In this location the throttle butterfly lever can get stuck on the boot clamp screw as seen and cause the throttle to stick!

[Mahler9th]

As some have stated, Post #8 shows a part that commonly fails. There are likely several threads in these Forums that describe such failures. I had one years ago-- never resulted in WOT (glad for that since my car is used almost exclusively for racing).

I always recommend carrying a spare one of those parts for cars that are raced. And a spare factory pedal for those that use the factory gas pedal (I had one break).

[Mr. Merk]

I had the same issue, and it happened several times. Makes you pucker a bit in traffic or mid turn!

Ended up being the bushings on the throttle linkage lever (bell crank) on the side of the transmission. It would bind up causing the throttle linkage rod to bind up on the engine tin. Quick repair once we figured it out. The plastic bushings were toast.

[mziin]

Thanks all for your replies and help.

Originally Posted by Walt Fricke

Slant's picture shows a common problem. If your throttle pedal stop isn't adjusted properly (or you don't have one), you will overstress this pin and it will come loose. The pedal stop is designed so that when you mash the pedal you get WOT but the force of your leg and foot ends at the stop, and not somewhere along the links back to the throttle butterfly on the engine.

I'm aware of the clutch stop, but don't see any throttle stop installed, nor on exploded views or as a part I could buy. My understanding is that the newer car (mine is 1988) don't need it, am I misunderstanding?

Originally Posted by Marc Bixen

Maybe it has something to do with that silly gas pedal your using? Also on 3.2's a common stuck throttle issue is at the throttle body to AFM boot connection, or a broken cruise control cable housing.. If someone got "artsy" and the lower AFM boot clamp screw is incorrectly positioned, it will cause the throttle to stick. There is a relief in the throttle body casting where the clamp screw is suppose to be located. Pictures coming.

I've checked and I'm on the clear for this one, no art work

[Marc Bixen]

jperichon, Hope you weren't insulted with the "silly gas padal" comment. The stock, plastic, gas pedal has a "pedal stop" molded into the back. This contacts the carpet and floor board to act as a throttle sop.

[911 SLANT]

Here is a picture of pedal stop on stock pedal

[mziin]

Originally Posted by Marc Bixen

jperichon, Hope you weren't insulted with the "silly gas padal" comment. The stock, plastic, gas pedal has a "pedal stop" molded into the back. This contacts the carpet and floor board to act as a throttle sop.

No offense taken Thank you and 911 SLANT, I understand what you meant by gas pedal stop. I'm waiting on a few parts from the host and will try those with the OEM pedal.

[911 SLANT]

Make sure to check if your throttle reverse lever is good. See if you can bend it back straight so it clears body ( tunnel) of car. If you press on pedal again and it hits body. You need buy a new one or put a nice thick weld like I did.

[Flat6pac]

The bushings were gone and the pedal would hang up
Bruce