Front Brake Lines: Decision Time

[Slate_Grey]

I'm redoing the suspension on my 89 3.2. I am planning to replace the strut cartridges as well as lots of other stuff that all requires an alignment (turbo tie rods, control arm bushings, ball joints, etc). However, I cannot disconnect the soft brake line no matter what I do (days of soaking in PB Blaster, mapp gas, using flare wrenches, even threw vice grips on it once and it's starting to twist the line, etc).

So... apparently the time has come. After researching, it seems like my options are:

1. Cut the line coming into the soft line and reflare on the car. Replace the soft line with a stainless (I already have), and possibly have to replace the softline-to-caliper line since I can't seem to get that one off either.
2. Leave all the lines in tact, and cut the flange holding the line to the strut (and just hang the caliper while doing the strut work)
3. Replace all lines (likely all the way to the master cylinder - the junction near the steering rack seems to be just as problematic).

I'm leaning towards #2 since I'm trying my best to not turn this into a frame up restoration and it's already creeped up in scope. I like #1 next, but have not flared a brake line in probably 20 years (on my old GTI), and am not sure how much room I have - was looking at the Bav Auto OTC tool Pelican sells as an option. $100 ish when it's all said and done - $50 ish for the tool, $? for a connector, $10 ish for spare line to practice, $10 ish for a brake line cutting tool.

Anyone have an opinion on these, a 4th or 5th option, or general wisdom to impart? While I'm not a concours guy, I don't like hacking up the car (cutting the strut flange) to save from "doing it the right way" - however, sometimes the ends justify the means, and in this case, doesn't seem like too big of a deal.

Thanks!

[Lyle O]

The small hard line (to caliper) is not too expense ($30?). The longer one (from soft line to junction under steering rack) is $65, so also not too bad. Don't mess with re-flaring the brake lines; not worth the screw-up (on so many levels).

You can easily hang the caliper with a stiff wire while you deal with the strut, though, and not change out anything. Just be sure you haven't already compromised those connections. Just know you will be dealing with the soft-to-hard line interfaces again someday, as the hoses will swell and constrict, causing "spongy" brakes, and will have to be replaced. Up to you: "...pay me now, or pay me later..."

[ryans65]

Don't bother with a bar and clamp style flaring tool, go with the TGR tool or the eastwood. If the brake lines are that stuck on then they are probably nasty on the inside too and should be replaced entirely front to rear.

[Cajundaddy]

Replace all 30 yr old buggered lines. You get lot of peace of mind for not a lot of cash.

[VFR750]

Have custom one piece lines made up and ditch the hard line.



Pegasus racing has metric and an fittings. They also make custom lines. I specified a 90 elbow metric fitting on one end. I had to use an an fitting on the other end to get a floating nut. An-metric adapter mates to the hard line in the body

Best part: I can removed the rotor without disconnecting the brake lines. No more bleeding nightmares! Just unbolt the caliper from the strut and swing it away. Just like every modern car.

I think stoptech also sells a similar line. The stop tech kits come with a single flex line as shown on my wide m caliper.

[BK911]

To remove a line, cut it at the fitting so you can get a 6 oint socket on it.
Work your way back to the first good fitting.
Go to flaps and get new hard lines for the ones you had to cut off.
Use old line as template for bending new line.

[clarkd]

I nicked the hard line on the front driver's side of my 73 and it leaked. I ordered the passenger side by mistake. (I still have it in a box somewhere!) I found a section of pre-made line at NAPA that was slightly longer than the original. I bent it to fit, and it didn't look like it was done by a jackleg. If you go pre-made from a FLAPS, there are different flare types. I needed European bubble flare.

I would order OEM style replacement hard lines based on your job scope to keep the aggravation factor down.

[fanaudical]

My '75 had all "bubble flare" lines when I did mine. It took me a little practice but the flaring wasn't hard.

I did as clarkd suggested - I went to my local NAPA and purchased several of their cuprinol (I think I've got that right) hard lines. These have the fittings on them, are pre-flared so you can use one end, and were easy to bend/form. They were cheap enough that I didn't mind screwing up a couple.

[brp914]

Originally Posted by fanaudical

My '75 had all "bubble flare" lines when I did mine. It took me a little practice but the flaring wasn't hard.

I did as clarkd suggested - I went to my local NAPA and purchased several of their cuprinol (I think I've got that right) hard lines. These have the fittings on them, are pre-flared so you can use one end, and were easy to bend/form. They were cheap enough that I didn't mind screwing up a couple.

I'm not sure what you mean by this. One end has a bubble flare? What do you do with the other end?

[fanaudical]

Sorry - I didn't explain that well.

The pre-made lines I bought were straight and had flares and nuts on both ends. I bought lines much longer than I needed so that I could cut them in half (which leaves one pre-made flare on each end), bent them to shape, slipped on another nut, and applied one more flare on each cut end where needed.

[brp914]

Originally Posted by fanaudical

Sorry - I didn't explain that well.

The pre-made lines I bought were straight and had flares and nuts on both ends. I bought lines much longer than I needed so that I could cut them in half (which leaves one pre-made flare on each end), bent them to shape, slipped on another nut, and applied one more flare on each cut end where needed.

Thanks. Did you use the TGR or Eastwood flaring tool mentioned above?

[mrdstr]

Originally Posted by VFR750

Have custom one piece lines made up and ditch the hard line.



Pegasus racing has metric and an fittings. They also make custom lines. I specified a 90 elbow metric fitting on one end. I had to use an an fitting on the other end to get a floating nut. An-metric adapter mates to the hard line in the body

Best part: I can removed the rotor without disconnecting the brake lines. No more bleeding nightmares! Just unbolt the caliper from the strut and swing it away. Just like every modern car.

I think stoptech also sells a similar line. The stop tech kits come with a single flex line as shown on my wide m caliper.

Did you go this route both front and rear? Do you have the specifics of what needs to be ordered? I have fussing with the hard lines and since I have trailing arm work to do I'd love to knock these out as well.

[VFR750]

Yes I did both front and rear.

Rear is a little tougher to do because of the bolt access.

So much nicer to work on the rotors without the haste of bleeding out the last bubbles.

Custom Flexible Brake Lines