My lift is an early version Titan SDPL-7000.
Max free drop between the inner lips is 39.5"

I haven't been able to confirm from anyone here on Pelican if that is enough to allow a 3.2 to pass thru, but it looks like it will by measuring things.

If it does not pass through, I will likely punt to the "off the back" method. I am not choosing that first because of where my lift sits, the door would have to be open. It will be silly cold and possibly snow/ice when I do this.

Drop went well, table worked smoothly, and my 4-post was wide enough. Had the missus spot things and lower as I cranked the tilt...job jobbed.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1611451310.jpg

Borrowed one of these from a friend for a job at work, ended up ordering one for myself at home...


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1612186446.jpg

Cart worked great going back in. The lip seal around the tins was a little fiddly, but otherwise pretty easy to get things lined up.

(Handle isn’t folded down yet in the pic)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1618257897.jpg

I like it! I'm contemplating a small bottle jack up front for mine but I like your setup.

So here's where I'm at so far. I didn't have the aluminum but I had some mounts from a fertilizer spreader that I through bolted to the side of the table with some washers that allow it to pivot. I didn't have the lath and couldn't find the pieces you made so I used a few pieces I found at Menards for about $18. I had the MDF laying around. I just have to put some blocks on it for engine support and it should be ready. I'm going to buy a 15/16 ratcheting end wrench with forward reverse selector or a pass through socket and ratchet (been wanting a set of those anyhow) . That way I can just leave it on the adjuster nut. Not quite as refined but should still function well.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1618612053.jpg

Looks good, good luck with your drop!

Thanks! I've done several engine drops just not on a lift so there's the whole "new" feeling. I think the tilt table should make coming out and in going in a lot smoother.

Very nice, cabmando. Creative use of found parts and hardware store items. I think you got lucky with the fertilizer spreader parts, they look robust and can reinforce the platform.

What parts did you use for the tilt mechanism jacking screw? Would you mind posting a closeup photo?

Steve

The parts for the tile are just a 10" hinge strap (Menards Sku 2258834) and a 5/8 x 12" Bolt hook (2250037). The hinge strap is bolted to the wood tabletop and the bolt hook slides through a hole I drilled in a piece of angle iron. I can remove 4 bolts and have this tilt table off of my lift table. I would have liked to do something like Quasimoto did but where the rod turns but I don't have a lathe and couldn't find the fittings he made. Plus I think he left out one part of his build (maybe not) where drilled and tapped the top of the threaded rod. I think in one of his pics there's a bolt shown that looks like it would hold the rod into the top pivot. All in all though I'm happy with how mine turned out. You could do what I did using the spare fertilizer spreader mounts with a piece of angle iron and welding an ear on it or put a piece of angle on top of the table and bolt your other piece to it.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1618678556.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1618678556.jpg

Here's how my top turned out. I used a dado blade in my table saw to put the groove in the 4x4 rather than cutting a V shape. For the dip where my oil drain is, I measured the center of my dado blade and then counted how many turns it took to raise the blade to about 1.5". I measured the center of my blade and marked that on the table. Then I dropped the blade back down to 3/4" high, set the block over the blade, turned the saw on and turned the number of times needed to get to 1.5" I used a circular saw for minor adjustments (not recommended at home children :) )I then set the piece on my table, adjusted the angle of the table and trimmed as needed until the fit was good.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1618678923.jpg

Do you have some sort of crossbar or spreader underneath where the engine sits? I put one directly under the sump block so that the plywood did not bear the load.

Yes, my jack screw is threaded at one end for retention. Not the best way to do it, but I couldn’t find my snap ring cutter in a hurry...

Nope. Handled it just fine though. I spent a bit of time fitting the pieces under the heat exchangers so that some of the weight was carried by them and some by the center mating line of the engine. When I jack the table up and set the angle, everything touches at the same time.

Only thing I'd change if I had more time to mess around with it would be the lift system. I'd find a small porta power ram with about 6" of throw and mount it in place of the threaded rod. That way I could do everything from the handle end of the cart rather than lowering, adjusting, then lowering some more. It worked well but it could have been better.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1618697192.jpg

^^^
I can't believe there isn't a single Sam Adams in that pic!

Result!

Yes it would be better if the tilt was operated from the other end. Could probably be done easy enough.

Did you do it solo, or have a helper?

Just me. I like this way (two post lift vs floor jacks) MUCH better. I was a little nervous about weight distribution once the engine was out so I put my porta power under the front to support it. Once the engine was out I slowly lowered the porta power ram and the balance was still about the same by the "bumper test".